Interesting Original Parts

[jonesallu]

As I start going through my father's '71 Bronco, I'm amazed at how many original parts are still on it. He always complained about the turn signal not cancelling but never got around to changing the switch. Well I did last week. And the original tag was on it with a date of 1970 (D0). I'm just amazed it functioned for 51 years.



One other task I did was flush the antifreeze and replace every hose with a new thermo and heater valve. The fluid was nasty, more brown than green. Well, as I expected, the radiator popped a big leak after all the grit was flushed out. What I didn't expect, was to find an original radiator with a date code of 1969 (C9). Even though it sat for the last 25 years, I find a surviving radiator that old to be a big surprise. I'll be watching the floor for green next.



The upside it that I have a self-cancelling turn signal switch now and a new 4-row aluminum radiator should arrive next week. I'll post some pics in the build thread of how that turns out with the steering box on the inside of the frame. Time to de-rust some TIG skills and a report on vendor radiator quality.

Al Jones
'71 Bronco

 

[BronCowie]

Congrats on inheriting your dad's Bronco... at least that is what I'm assuming. I just gave my '69 to one of my daughters earlier this year after driving it daily for ~30 years. She got it with self-cancelling turn signal switches NOT working. They haven't for many years... just one minor issue I learned to live with, not a big deal. What's funny is when you are driving down a road for minutes and go to use the turn signal and find that its been blinking all this time since your last turn.

 

[bcmbcmbcm]

Hello, why not re-core that great old brass radiator?

 

[jonesallu]

Hello, why not re-core that great old brass radiator?

I was not confident the tanks could be saved - plus, one side was bashed in to accomodate power streering. Also, I'm installing A/C, so a four row seemed like a good upgrade. NOW, all the being said, your post is perceptive. The aluminum radiator is average to poor quality making want to chance the recore of the original. I would only do that if my local radiator shop could put in a four row. It looks like the tanks can take the extra row. He just recored my New Holland TC40DA and it works great, so, yeah, I may end up eating the aluminum core and going back to brass. Lesson learned in progress.

 

[jonesallu]

Congrats on inheriting your dad's Bronco... at least that is what I'm assuming. I just gave my '69 to one of my daughters earlier this year after driving it daily for ~30 years. She got it with self-cancelling turn signal switches NOT working. They haven't for many years... just one minor issue I learned to live with, not a big deal. What's funny is when you are driving down a road for minutes and go to use the turn signal and find that its been blinking all this time since your last turn.

Yes, inherited. Ya, I did the same thing and got to the point of not caring where/what was on or off. The interesting thing is I see Napa makes a repair kit for the stock switch where you only replace the canceling part. Wish I had know that before I replaced the entire switch. I liked the idea of leaving that original tag on it. Another lesson learned.

 

[bulletpruf]

Hello, why not re-core that great old brass radiator?

Great idea, but radiator shops that can/will re-core radiators are slowly disappearing. Same with starter/alternator shops. Damn shame.

 

[amfw]

What's funny is when you are driving down a road for minutes and go to use the turn signal and find that its been blinking all this time since your last turn.

My fingers reflexively "cancel" my turn signal ALMOST every time, but this still happens to me from time to time

 

[LUBr LuvR]

Yes, inherited. Ya, I did the same thing and got to the point of not caring where/what was on or off. The interesting thing is I see Napa makes a repair kit for the stock switch where you only replace the canceling part. Wish I had know that before I replaced the entire switch. I liked the idea of leaving that original tag on it. Another lesson learned.

Would you have the part number for the repair kit from Napa? Tried checking their site, but only kits found were for Chevy and Buick.

 

[jonesallu]

Would you have the part number for the repair kit from Napa? Tried checking their site, but only kits found were for Chevy and Buick.

It's discontinued through the Napa FLAPS but search for "Turn Signal Repair Kit" in auction sites and Napa/Echlin parts come up for Ford F100/F150/Bronco.

 

[tbruz]

Napa still has them around here, ECHLIN DL 6120
Tbruz

 

[jonesallu]

@tbruz Thanks for posting that. Sorry I put wrong information out there. I just checked the number and it's good. There's a gazillion in stock across the country. It doesn't list the Bronco as an application anymore but does list all Ford pickups from 65 to 77 as working. Thanks again.

 

[syndicate1]

Nice post and congrats. Keep the original radiator and have it re-cored to keep the original date stamps. I re-cored the original radiator in my bronco and it cost around the same as new radiator


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Madgyver]

Hello, why not re-core that great old brass radiator?

local radiator shop recores cost more than a replacement with shipping included. they will turn the task down and tell you to buy a new radiator.

 

[Slowleak]

I had mine re-cored years ago. A good shop can install a better core with a higher fin count and better cooling, than you will find on most replacement radiators.

 

[jonesallu]

local radiator shop recores cost more than a replacement with shipping included. they will turn the task down and tell you to buy a new radiator.

That's not the experience I've had locally. I can get a radiator recored and painted with a Detroit made core for about 1/2 what a new one costs. I had a large radiator recored for my New Holland tractor for $400. New from New Holland was 8 weeks out and was $750 - and imported. My cost for a Napa brass radiator for my Bronco is around $500 (not saying they are good) and a few weeks out. Ebay junk ones are about half that...? Again, my 71 can be recored for around $400 - upgrading from 3 to 4 row. Less if I keep it 3 row.

Al Jones
Brookings, SD
71 Bronco

 

[LUBr LuvR]

Napa still has them around here, ECHLIN DL 6120
Tbruz

@tbruz Thanks for posting that. Sorry I put wrong information out there. I just checked the number and it's good. There's a gazillion in stock across the country. It doesn't list the Bronco as an application anymore but does list all Ford pickups from 65 to 77 as working. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. NAPA site kept showing “part not found” for me until it was entered as ECH DL6120. It did have 1974-77 Bronco in the list of applications. Anyone have success with this on the earlier years, or does it only work on the ‘74 and up with single contact for the horn?

 

[jonesallu]

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. NAPA site kept showing “part not found” for me until it was entered as ECH DL6120. It did have 1974-77 Bronco in the list of applications. Anyone have success with this on the earlier years, or does it only work on the ‘74 and up with single contact for the horn?

Here's the fitment guide for that part number through NAPA Prolink. I would NOT trust their fitment guide. Many parts that should show up for early Bronco's do not. Some parts that do show up, are wrong. For parts that should list but do not --> when you type in the part number, they show up in the fitment guide. Case in point, their timing set for the Bronco 302 is for late engines with the one piece fuel pump eccentric. If you have the two piece, it will not work. Same thing with the front wheel brake lines, they sell you ones several inches longer than stock. It's frustrating. As a jobber, I buy A LOT of Napa parts. Unfortunately, their business model to support older vehicles is less and less and they leave it to other FLAPS to feed us.

Al Jones
1971 Bronco

 

[jonesallu]

More interesting original parts.

First up, cam timing gear, date code 1972. Must be from the crate engine Dad put in. The timing chain was pretty loose.



Next up, harmonic balancer, date code 1969. I was curious why the timing marks were so far off until I grabbed the outer ring. I'll call this a "close call". The new one is behind the old one in the third photo. The timing marks lined up perfect.



Al Jones
Brookings, SD
71 Bronco

 

[sprdv1]

Yes, inherited. Ya, I did the same thing and got to the point of not caring where/what was on or off. The interesting thing is I see Napa makes a repair kit for the stock switch where you only replace the canceling part. Wish I had know that before I replaced the entire switch. I liked the idea of leaving that original tag on it. Another lesson learned.

for sure we learn em all the time

 

[Broncobowsher]

Looks like all the teeth are still on that timing gear. That is really amazing. Most of those gears lost that nylon 30 years ago. I used the fact that the teeth were still on the gear to prove low mileage on a truck I sold a few years ago. Yes, the chain was super sloppy, but the teeth were still there. About right for 60k on a 70's American V8 engine.