Mean Green Alternator questions on Wiring to Centech Harness

[bskiusaf]

I just got a Mean Green Alternator from Wild Horses to replace a 3G I was having issues with(had the internal regulator fail twice).

I can not figure out how to wire this in since it comes with a plug that requires the field and stator wires off of regulator. I still had my stock wiring for the stock alternator but while the field wire is accessible the Stator wire goes from the regulator back to the main harness on my Centech harness. Do I have to hook up the Stator wire plug of the Mean Green? If so where do I get the wire from/to?

I wish Centech produced a wiring diagram because what I am doing now is opening up the looms trying to find where the green Stator wire goes.

Thanks,

 

[DirtDonk]

You won't need the stator wires at this point, unless you still have the stock Ford electric choke on the carburetor. Since it's not used for any indicator lights on the dash or anything like that, the only function on an EB (that I'm aware of) was for the original choke.

You won't want to use the Centech's Yellow BAT wire on the alternator output either, but since this is replacing a 3G already installed, I'm "assuming" that you already have a larger gauge charge wire running straight from the alternator's BAT output to the battery positive?

I wish Centech made a real diagram too, but at least it's all the basics.
Let us know what yours was set up like already, and if you can, post up some pics.
At least you still have your old relay still set up.

And thanks for the purchase too! Hopefully we can help you make it work without too much drama or stress on your part. ;D

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Just to clarify the whole stator/field wire thing. On that type of alternator (large case 1G design with higher output) you only need to make sure you have three wires out of the four to make it work.

1. The Orange field wire between the F post in the new alternator connector to the F post of the external regulator.
2. The larger gauge cable between the BAT output post on the back or side of the alternator and the battery positive. You can connect it to the battery side of the starter relay if that's more convenient. Just make sure you leave the large Red "BAT+" wire from the Centech harness there as well.
3. A ground wire between the case of the alternator and the mounting screw of the voltage regulator is desired. Can be small gauge. Probably a GRD stud on the back of the alternator case, but any case bolt can work in a pinch.

Yes the alternator grounds through the case to the engine, but this wire guarantees that the regulator and alternator know what the other is up to.

The Stator wire should be used if you still have the stock Ford choke, but is not needed otherwise.
And being CA in the Summer (even in Monterey) at least cold temps aren't a huge issue at this point and you can hook it up later. It's not required in any way to make the alternator charge the battery.

Paul

 

[bskiusaf]

Mean Green Alternator, Centech Wiring harness

Paul, Thanks for the reply. I guess you are the "Alternator Guy" that was out on Friday when I called.

Thanks for clarifying a few things. Your right I have the large gauge cable with the bus fuse that you guys sell and will use it to go direct to the battery, unless you recommend it going to the Starter relay.

Currently the wire from the Stator side of the voltage regulator goes to the choke (I have an Edlebrock carb with choke, and unfortunately I no longer live in Montery, I am on the East Coast where it gets cold). My question is doesn't it require a wire from the alternators stator wire to the regulator? If so, how do you do that?

The other issue I have is that on my 351W I was using a different kind of alternator mount and the case is so huge on the Mean Green Alternator that it hits the mount attached to the head and limits any adjustment. I think I need to buy the mount like you guys sell as it goes across the top front of the head instead of the bottom front like I have. I also need a spacer for the alternator.

Thanks for your help!

Just to clarify the whole stator/field wire thing. On that type of alternator (large case 1G design with higher output) you only need to make sure you have three wires out of the four to make it work.


The Stator wire should be used if you still have the stock Ford choke, but is not needed otherwise.
And being CA in the Summer (even in Monterey) at least cold temps aren't a huge issue at this point and you can hook it up later. It's not required in any way to make the alternator charge the battery.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

...Your right I have the large gauge cable with the bus fuse that you guys sell and will use it to go direct to the battery, unless you recommend it going to the Starter relay.

No recommendation either way here. It's basically the same thing, just separated by a few inches of battery cable. Same function, so you use whichever is more convenient at the time.
I've ended up connecting it directly to the battery lug bolt just because some of the starter relays have had so many wires on their posts that it's just getting kind of crowded there.

Currently the wire from the Stator side of the voltage regulator goes to the choke (I have an Edlebrock carb with choke, and unfortunately I no longer live in Montery, I am on the East Coast where it gets cold).

That's not doing anything any good, as it's not the stator connector of the regulator that powers the choke. It's the stator stud on the back of the alternator.
And it's not correct for an Edelbrock choke anyway. That one needs 12v instead of the lower voltage coming from a stater output.
So find a good 12v source, on with the key in RUN only, under the hood.
There are a couple of extra switched sources under the hood with a Centech harness. A 2-wire connector with Green wires going to it is one. Not sure if it's on only in RUN, or if it's on while the key is in ACC position too, but that's easy to check with a volt-meter.

My question is doesn't it require a wire from the alternators stator wire to the regulator? If so, how do you do that?

No.
Early Broncos never came with the stator wire connected to the regulator. There are generally two wiring schemes that Ford used with the regulator. One for vehicles with an indicator light on the dash, and a different one for vehicles with an ammeter. Like all EB's had.

Your regulator should be wired this way only:

1. First position is the "F" terminal and has the Orange wire to the FLD post on the alternator.
2. Second position is the "S" terminal and gets the Green wire from the Centech harness marked "REG S" and has 12v only with the key in RUN.
3. Third position is the "A" terminal and gets the Yellow (I think?) wire from the Centech harness. Stock is Yellow, but I forget what color the Centech is for some reason. It should be marked either "REG +" or something similar and has 12v all the time.
4. There is no 4th wire on a Bronco. The "I" position of the regulator is left blank.

I don't have a Centech alternator connector in front of me, but if they have the other wiring scheme, you would simply remove the contacts and wires from the main connector and relocate them to different positions that better match what I wrote above.
It's an issue with replacement connectors sometimes. The store-bought stuff might be wired for the more common light-equipped cars, while a few are wired for the ammeter equipped trucks like ours.

The other issue I have is that on my 351W I was using a different kind of alternator mount and the case is so huge on the Mean Green Alternator that it hits the mount attached to the head and limits any adjustment. I think I need to buy the mount like you guys sell as it goes across the top front of the head instead of the bottom front like I have. I also need a spacer for the alternator.

I would have thought you'd have a spacer even with the 3G. Was that not the case? Do you have a pic of your existing brackets? Did they come with the 351, or were they swapped in from another engine?
You might be able to get away with just our adapter for the 351, but that would be only for use with stock original Bronco brackets.
In the case of our brackets, they should work just fine, but you might have to elongate the adjuster slot slightly for a better fit.
I did, but I know of members here who had to make no modifications to make theirs work.

Pics would still be good though. You might be ok, or you might need all of the above. The brackets, the spacer, and the adapter.

Paul

 

[bskiusaf]

That's not doing anything any good, as it's not the stator connector of the regulator that powers the choke. It's the stator stud on the back of the alternator.
And it's not correct for an Edelbrock choke anyway. That one needs 12v instead of the lower voltage coming from a stater output.
So find a good 12v source, on with the key in RUN only, under the hood.
There are a couple of extra switched sources under the hood with a Centech harness. A 2-wire connector with Green wires going to it is one. Not sure if it's on only in RUN, or if it's on while the key is in ACC position too, but that's easy to check with a volt-meter.

It looks like when the Centech was put in and connected to the Edelbrock choke they used a green "Key IGN" Wire as well as the green "Reg S" wire both going into the choke. Not sure if that is correct as the stator wire is coming off of the voltage regulator, but if I read your last post this is correct.



I would have thought you'd have a spacer even with the 3G. Was that not the case? Do you have a pic of your existing brackets? Did they come with the 351, or were they swapped in from another engine?
You might be able to get away with just our adapter for the 351, but that would be only for use with stock original Bronco brackets.
In the case of our brackets, they should work just fine, but you might have to elongate the adjuster slot slightly for a better fit.
I did, but I know of members here who had to make no modifications to make theirs work.

See the pictures for the bracket. I have owned this truck for over 20 years, and when I converted to 351W I got this setup from a speed shop I think. If you look you can see that it is right up against the Mean Green alternator. I just have it in place and realize I need the spacer. The older 3G did have a spacer but when I took it off I gave to be rebuilt with it on it, but did not return. I had the original Ford Alternator/Smog pump bracket but I was told when I ordered it from you that I could not use this type of bracket so I bought the normal 289/302/351 bracket. My only issue is that when I test fitted it the bottom mount on the alternator did not sit flush against the mount that is attached to the water pump.





Pics would still be good though. You might be ok, or you might need all of the above. The brackets, the spacer, and the adapter.

Paul[/QUOTE]

 

[bskiusaf]

Pics

Trying to figure out how to post a picture.....not very user friendly.

 

[bskiusaf]

Pics of the Alternator Mounts

Could not figure out how to add it to the forum, so I just added it to my gallery

 

[DirtDonk]

Gallery is fine. You have to be a contributor to post an image directly into the forum posts.
Even if not a contributor though, you can still do it through a remote hosting site like SuperMotors or PhotoBucket and the like.
I'll check out the gallery though and see what I can see.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

And when doing multiple quotes, you have to cut-n-paste, or type the "Quote" text formats at the beginning and end of each portion you're wanting to show in quotes.

So like I did before, I clicked on the "quote" button at the bottom of your post I wanted quoted, then separated each section I wanted to deal with, then cut-and-pasted the beginning and end quotes before each section of your text. Leaving mine out of the quote area.

That clear as mud? Once you've done it a couple of times it's actually pretty easy.
I just learned (just barely though) how to post images and put words next to each picture! All these years of seeing others do it and I could not figure it out.
Had to be told by Jon (Admin) in the "posting help" forum.
Now, to get the chance to practice...

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

If you look you can see that it is right up against the Mean Green alternator. I just have it in place and realize I need the spacer.

I see where the spacer should go, but it's hard to make out the lower bracket.

The older 3G did have a spacer but when I took it off I gave to be rebuilt with it on it, but did not return.

I'm sure you've figured this out already, but I'd bet they would not have any trouble giving you either your old one back or a new one they may have laying around.
At least someone in that shop should have noticed that it had a spacer on it, because that's not something that they would get very often I would not think.
If not, you could probably get one from the local auto parts store or junkyard. Kind of a small part to go drive to the JY, then pay to get in, then pay for the part though. So a quick trip to the dealer/store might get you the proper replacement. Or at least one that's longer that you can cut down.
And speaking of which, I know plenty of people that have gotten by (remember, it's temporary unless it works) with making their own spacers out of one thing or another.

I had the original Ford Alternator/Smog pump bracket but I was told when I ordered it from you that I could not use this type of bracket so I bought the normal 289/302/351 bracket.

Pretty much correct. It's hard to even fit a large case 3G in that bracket. Much less a large case 1G.

My only issue is that when I test fitted it the bottom mount on the alternator did not sit flush against the mount that is attached to the water pump.

I thought mine had a small spacer of some kind under it? Maybe one of those double-stud bolts where you have the hex shaped center to torque down the water pump and then the bracket sits on top of that with another nut?
I'm not sure, since mine is no longer together (or even in my posession) so I can't go verify it for you. But I've heard of this issue here before too, so someone will know the cure.

It's always possible that if your 351 is using the front cover and water pump for whatever it's original application was, rather than the front cover from the original EB engine, that the spacing on the particular water pump bolt might be off too.
In that case, or even if you just don't get an answer from someone that knows, you can easily bend the bracket to fit I would think.
I've done that on various engines in the past. Never had to do it on mine to mount the 1G, but it might cure your issue.

Paul

 

[bskiusaf]

The Lower bracket is just the stock ford bracket that I used with the smog pump bracket. I have also compared it to the aftermarket bracket and it has the same shape but is longer.