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Need a custom Cam Sync! Any machine guys want to help? Advice? Please? CNP Ignition and MS3.

ba123

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So, I was very hopeful that an Explorer Cam sync would fit, but it does not. I do NOT even have that much room. Really:
IMG_4061.jpg


I found a guy that cut an Explorer sync down, took a 4.6 sync, made a top/mount to hold it all in place and looks like this:

1671911547618.jpeg

I'd love to have that made by someone who knows that they are doing and being sure the parts they use will last. Or would also love any advice on other ways to go I just do not want to run the belt drive distributor. That's lame.

Could just go wasted spark but would prefer not to. Running gear drive so there should not be any slack between the crank and cam, right? What if I put a gear on the crank and told the PiMPxs that it's a cam sync (and said it had half the number of teeth)? Too risky? Totally open to thoughts and would really appreciate it!

Please help!
 

Broncobowsher

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What intake is that? Looks like a normal casting, but won't clear the distributor? I'm confused, and intrigued.

That 4.6 conversion looks good. I'm guessing if the sensor ever died it could still be replaced? Done right I see that as still servicable in the future.

I don't see using the crank gear working. The reason for the cam position sensor is to tell the computer if you are coming up on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. The crankshaft doesn't know. The crank gear is in that exact same position 2 different times, but only one of them does the spark need to happen. If you want the computer firing the spark (and fuel) at the right hole it need to know where the cam is at. The crank position gives an exact position of the crankshaft, but the cam position tells which cycle the crankshaft is on.
 

nvrstuk

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Agreed, what intake??
 
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ba123

ba123

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BXR. I wrote a little about it in the build post I just did. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/posts/3466942/

It was huge when I bought it in the late 90's, but it had two problems, (1) Expensive as hell and (2) this distributor issue. In the kit, they gave a modded distributor to be belt driven. I just can't bring myself to use that part. Got to make this work.

I just ordered this MSD universal Cam sync. I like this better than trying to use the 4.6. I like that I can control the depth with thread to make it just right and can mount the magnet for it in a hole I drill.

I took apart the Explorer cam sync I got, since I got a crappy aftermarket one just to test fit anyway. I could cut off and use the top of that shaft and attach the magnet to that piece maybe. I could bolt it to the top of the BXR shaft since it's threaded...I have some options I think.

Here a pic with the Explorer shaft, the BXR shaft in the block, and the underside of the BXR plug. I could cut the top of the BXR plug easily and just need someone to machine a top to cover everything and attach to that.

Still open to thoughts, but maybe I'm headed in the right direction.
 

jamesroney

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BXR. I wrote a little about it in the build post I just did. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/posts/3466942/

It was huge when I bought it in the late 90's, but it had two problems, (1) Expensive as hell and (2) this distributor issue. In the kit, they gave a modded distributor to be belt driven. I just can't bring myself to use that part. Got to make this work.

I just ordered this MSD universal Cam sync. I like this better than trying to use the 4.6. I like that I can control the depth with thread to make it just right and can mount the magnet for it in a hole I drill.

I took apart the Explorer cam sync I got, since I got a crappy aftermarket one just to test fit anyway. I could cut off and use the top of that shaft and attach the magnet to that piece maybe. I could bolt it to the top of the BXR shaft since it's threaded...I have some options I think.

Here a pic with the Explorer shaft, the BXR shaft in the block, and the underside of the BXR plug. I could cut the top of the BXR plug easily and just need someone to machine a top to cover everything and attach to that.

Still open to thoughts, but maybe I'm headed in the right direction.
Uhm, hello.

I just read your post on the build. I don't want to be "that guy" but have you tried to fit your intake with your firewall? I had a brand new BBK intake that I really loved, but it wouldn't clear the firewall. I cried when I had to get rid of it.

Also wondering what exactly goes under that BXR plug to drive the oil pump? I know that the explorer cam sync won't fit, and the distributor won't fit...are you running dry sump? Or does BXR drive the oil pump? Better make sure that the pump drive is compatible with your steel cam.

I once had to build a distributor to run TFI on an FE I was building...but that had tons of room.

Post lots of pics! Love to see the progress!

James.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Uhm, hello.

I just read your post on the build. I don't want to be "that guy" but have you tried to fit your intake with your firewall? I had a brand new BBK intake that I really loved, but it wouldn't clear the firewall. I cried when I had to get rid of it.

Also wondering what exactly goes under that BXR plug to drive the oil pump? I know that the explorer cam sync won't fit, and the distributor won't fit...are you running dry sump? Or does BXR drive the oil pump? Better make sure that the pump drive is compatible with your steel cam.

I once had to build a distributor to run TFI on an FE I was building...but that had tons of room.

Post lots of pics! Love to see the progress!

James.
If a coyote engine fits I'm not too worried about fit, or I wasn't until I read what you wrote! I'm not sure what wouldn't fit though. How did the BBK intake not fit. I'm really curious about that.

As far as the rest of it, this is a 1990 mustang engine, mustang Ford Performance e303 cam, bxr made for this mustang engine...all that is good. That BXR plug is a cut off distributor shaft and has everything the bottom half of a mustang 5.0 distributor has and the top part is the bottom part of the dist housing, just less of it than an Explorer Cam Sync. They cut it and it looks like a freeze plug in the top (and then I painted it black forever ago).
 

bax

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Let me see if I got this correct. The oil pump is being taken care of bu the BXR "plug". So you need a magnetic pickup put into the cam drive gear and a sensor installed into the timing chain cover. I think you may have room for that. yes you will have to make it and bond a magnet into the cam drive gear in the correct location. I think you can do it.
 

bax

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Also what if you cut the intake to make room for the explorer cams sink. You could weld a round plate around the machined area to seal up any water jackets you could get into . Might not look ugly at all if a quality job was performed. Plus it will use over the counter parts. Cool intake. Is it that much better that any other intake option?
 
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ba123

ba123

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I might have to cut a little off the intake regardless, but yeah, I probably could look more at how much I would need to cut to do that. It is a possibility and might be easier overall. I need to throw some bolts into the intake to make sure how much room I have and then look what’s behind it but prob just coolant space so I don’t see any negatives to that. Right? Speaking of which, I don’t remember what the hole right there in the intake is. There was a brass fitting I just took out of it…it’s got to be for another coolant sensor or something right? What sensor am I forgetting?
 
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ba123

ba123

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Uhm, hello.

I just read your post on the build. I don't want to be "that guy" but have you tried to fit your intake with your firewall? I had a brand new BBK intake that I really loved, but it wouldn't clear the firewall. I cried when I had to get rid of it.

Also wondering what exactly goes under that BXR plug to drive the oil pump? I know that the explorer cam sync won't fit, and the distributor won't fit...are you running dry sump? Or does BXR drive the oil pump? Better make sure that the pump drive is compatible with your steel cam.

I once had to build a distributor to run TFI on an FE I was building...but that had tons of room.

Post lots of pics! Love to see the progress!

James.
Hey, James, could you give more details on your BBK manifold that didn’t fit? Not sure what I would do so maybe I should wait on all of this until I know for sure. I’d be really depressed if I couldn’t make this work but my engine compartment will be freshly painted before I try so not like I can bang things up either.
 

Broncobowsher

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I think I know that BBK intake. About 15 years ago they made a really cool one. Two plenums and fairly straight runners. I was really wanting one for the stroker I was putting into a Ranger. In the end I did an Explorer intake and even that was a tight fit while keeping the A/C. It is a lot like that BXR but kept the normal side entry throttle body, and not nearly as racey of a piece.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Ahh, could be the BBK SSI, which was pretty similar and a lot of people said they copied BXR, but yeah, came from the side. I just did a search and saw a post that someone had one on his Bronco though, but maybe only fit a 302 and maybe not enough room when using a 351?

As much of a pain this manifold is, I'd be crushed if I couldn't make it work. It's such a show piece and supposed to bring the HPs with it! I wish they had designed it to be two piece though, would make life so much easier.
 

jamesroney

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Hey, James, could you give more details on your BBK manifold that didn’t fit? Not sure what I would do so maybe I should wait on all of this until I know for sure. I’d be really depressed if I couldn’t make this work but my engine compartment will be freshly painted before I try so not like I can bang things up either.
BBK SSI, yes.

I found this pic (not mine) but you can see that the left rear corner has a firewall problem. Hopefully yours doesn’t do that.
 

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ba123

ba123

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Wow, I see that! I found some other pics of that manifold and looks like it actually shoot backwards on the Driver's side! (bottom right in the pic below)
1672009923356.png

On the BXR, it actually moves AWAY from the firewall on that section so there is hope (Top Left in this pic below):
IMG_4075.jpg
 

bax

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I might have to cut a little off the intake regardless, but yeah, I probably could look more at how much I would need to cut to do that. It is a possibility and might be easier overall. I need to throw some bolts into the intake to make sure how much room I have and then look what’s behind it but prob just coolant space so I don’t see any negatives to that. Right? Speaking of which, I don’t remember what the hole right there in the intake is. There was a brass fitting I just took out of it…it’s got to be for another coolant sensor or something right? What sensor am I forgetting?
perhaps a temp sender or a by pass line. I am sure you could plug it or use it if you can
 
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ba123

ba123

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perhaps a temp sender or a by pass line. I am sure you could plug it or use it if you can
Thanks, I found it...there are two coolant temps in a foxbody mustang engine. One for the ecu in the tubes and then this one is for the gauge. Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

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I’m having a hard time understanding something. Can you take another shot like the first image only pull back a little so I can see what we were looking at? What is that appendage that’s vertical, but doesn’t come anywhere close to being over the distributor hall. Is it so critical? It can’t be at least partially removed?
I revisited your other thread to look at those pictures in it and admit that to me it doesn’t look anything like that in the front with the throttlebody on.

Thanks. Not that I can be of much help in this case, but I’m still curious.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Here is a shot zoomed out a little and I also removed the throttle body.
1672107017434.jpeg

Hope that helps the visual!

That tubs is coolant. Goes from the thermostat and up into the egr and maybe around elsewhere and yes, I do plan on removing part of it. I don’t have the egr stuff so can’t run it anyway (so let’s not get into the egr delete convo cause I don’t have it). I can hopefully get someone to weld it up if I grind away too much but hopefully ok without getting far enough into there.

Here is a shot from below:
1672107267171.jpeg

I’ve come up with a preliminary piece that will attach to the top of the current cam plug and be threaded for the MSD sensor.

1672107311600.jpeg

Orientation is wrong, sorry, it’s sideways. I’ll attach and then the tube part will have 1/2-20 threads and center hollow for a rotating assembly with the magnet. It will be attached from the top with small recessed bolts and then the dizzy hood down should be able to clamp down both together. Seems easier than the other guys method.

A buddy of mine is gonna 3d print a test fit part and help me figure it out.
 

DirtDonk

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Wow, thanks for the extra pics! Really helps.
But I think that also kind of helps your dilemma. If it’s only for EGR cooling and you don’t see any reason you should keep it, just chop the lower half off (relatively speaking), weld it up and move on with a regular sensor.

All theoretical, of course…😉🙄😎
 
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ba123

ba123

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Yeah, I should look more at it, cause yes, if it's only for EGR, then I could just use the exploder syn altogether and that would make things much simpler.
 
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