Need spiritual guidance on body lift

[Millercorey]

I need some guidance and advice because I'm torn. Have a pretty intensive winter of work in process on the Bronco, and I'm trying to figure out what I want to tackle now vs. put off till next year. My goal is to have this back to driving come summertime weather.

My main goals for the winter were to get a more comfortable street friendly ride for cruising. This is NOT a wheeler, but who doesn't like having the option right? My intention was not to complete every single thing I wanted to do to bronco in just this winter, but I also don't want to do one thing this year and then tear it all up on a different project next year.

This winter's original goals -
-Replaced existing 2" body lift with WH 2" body lift kit (already done)
-replacing floor pans (in process - 50% complete)
-replace firewall insulation
-laying bedliner, homemade lizard skin, insulation, and TBP carpet kit
-replace gas tank with 23ga BC broncos tank (pulled old tanks and waiting to complete new)

As I started these jobs I decided to add some odds and ends.
-wire wheel underbody and reapply undercoating
-new fuel lines (and hoses where appropriate ex: charcoal canister, breather bottle behind driver's seat, etc)
-add a fan shroud (doesn't have one for some reason)
-might make some homemade

Here's my big questions that I need opinions on.

MOST IMPORTANT - I have 3.5 gears and prior owner put 33" and a 2" body lift. With the new NV3550 I put in, it's not exactly the combo that most would recommend. I'm considering pulling the body lift and going down to a 1" to get it to the final lift I wanted so I could switch to a smaller tire when these 33" wore out. The reason I'm thinking about it now is b/c I don't want to pull up carpet and remove the roll cage to redo the body lift when I'm ready to change tires. However, I'm not sure what problems I'll get myself into when doing this, and I don't want to get sidetracked for a few weeks and get behind schedule
Things like
-moving radiator and/or shroud
-clutch rod readjustment
-move the new 23ga tank down to match the lower body mount
-will have to do some work on emergency brake work

OTHER OPINIONS NEEDED I also want to pull the dash to repaint (it looks terrible), but if I'm pulling it, I'm not sure if I just plug back in the old harness or go to the painless harness
-I also pulled the old aftermarket radio, and I'd like to weld in a plate to cover the aftermarket cutout to go with the retro sound setup
-If I don't do this now, then I'll have to pull up carpet, pull the rollcage, and pull the dash next year.

So I need guidance! What would y'all recommend.
-Keep 2" body lift for now and worry about it when I want to go to smaller tires? 30" would probably look pretty odd w/ a 2" BL.
-Pull the dash, paint, and reinstall old harness OR go all out and go w/ painless

My big concern is getting tied up with too much stuff and not having a drivable bronco when the weather gets nice, but I also don't want to undo a bunch of my work next year to do these things.

 

[Rustytruck]

Looks like your getting run over by the snow ball. I would forgo everything and do the dash now and tackle your insulated fire wall and then bed liner. If your roll cage is tied to the frame you will have to deal with that when you drop the body lift.

Then get the truck running condition again.
then go back to carpet and roll cage.

Best to rebuild the heater box while the dash is out because the firewall insulation is behind and on top of it.

 

[Timmy390]

Are you wanting a smaller tire because the engine/trans combo isn't idea?

If so, why not just re-gear to 4.11's or 4.30's vs. doing all the removal of the lift. It's a much cheaper way to go.

Tim

 

[JCBombardier]

You said you’re main goal for this winter is to create a more comfortable street friendly ride. The dash work sounds like it’s more of a cosmetic issue which doesn’t align with your main goal.

Assuming you don’t want to regear, I say go ahead and do the 1” lift and finish up the interior projects you’ve already started. Save the dash until next winter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Millercorey]

Forgot to mention that I pulled the heater to fix a leaking core, so cleaning up the heater, and resealing is already in progress.

FYI - roll cage is NOT tied to frame. I know I know let's not start that argument.

@timmy390 - I was against re-gearing b/c it was my impression this is at least a $1k project, and because this isn't a wheeler there wasn't really a need. Higher gears would also hurt gas mileage, which let's be honest none of us should be worried about that but it was technically a factor. Going down to a 1" lift should really only cost me the $120 for the kit, and b/c I just installed a new 2" kit, I should probably be able to recoup part of that cost by selling to a member. Best case it only costs me an hour or so of time, but worst case it leads me to making a bunch of other modifications (clutch rod, radiator, etc)

I have to pull the dash to do the firewall, and it seems like while it's out it makes sense to paint it. It also makes sense to do a rewire while you have it out and painted. I agree that's snowballing quite a bit, but the big motivator is the radio changeout. I would need to weld in some sheet metal to cover the larger hole from the aftermarket radio.

I know there's recurring arguments about the home depot insulation - often referred to as peel n' seal, but I think the product a lot of guys are using now is technically different (frost king - https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603). I stuck it to the bottom of some cheap floor mats all last year to save my feet in the summers, and I'm convinced of it's benefit.

You think maybe I forego pulling the dash by using frost king? I know doing the firewall insulation usually requires removing the dash b/c it's one giant piece that needs a little fitting. I would bet you could patch the frost king stick-on product in and around all the nooks and crannies without the dash off. If this was only marginally effective, do you think it would be a good solution to get me to next winter? Then I could officially pull the dash, do a more permanent firewall setup, and weld, paint, and rewire?

 

[Timmy390]

@timmy390 - I was against re-gearing b/c it was my impression this is at least a $1k project, and because this isn't a wheeler there wasn't really a need. Higher gears would also hurt gas mileage, which let's be honest none of us should be worried about that but it was technically a factor. Going down to a 1" lift should really only cost me the $120 for the kit, and b/c I just installed a new 2" kit, I should probably be able to recoup part of that cost by selling to a member. Best case it only costs me an hour or so of time, but worst case it leads me to making a bunch of other modifications (clutch rod, radiator, etc)

I did all the work myself on my regear so that saved a buck or two but yeah it does cost but you can also save by keeping the diffs you have now and just buy gears and paying for setup or do it yourself. Standard 9 in the rear and "thick" up front. Thick gears mean no front carrier change. Buy a T-loc for the rear off a member that's going with a full locker. Ways to save money and I look for them all.

As for mileage well.......with the wrong gears (and the 3.50's are for that combo hell even for 32's IMO) you're using more gas to stay at speed because your not in the torque band you need to be in. Lower gears will get the RPM's up and with less throttle. So it's a push IMO. I've had both 3.50's and now 4.11's and the 4.11's are much better.....no more lugging.....Problem for me is, I can't keep my foot off the floor......I drive hard....

Tim

 

[sprdv1]

I have to pull the dash to do the firewall, and it seems like while it's out it makes sense to paint it. It also makes sense to do a rewire while you have it out and painted. I agree that's snowballing quite a bit, but the big motivator is the radio changeout. I would need to weld in some sheet metal to cover the larger hole from the aftermarket radio.

Makes sense, might be snowballing a little, but it's out. Do it right first time, not have to go back to jack w/it again.

 

[Jluck]

Take a breath first.. You are over thinking it. It's 1" difference that's it. Leave your progress alone. Drive it as is and maybe compromise to a 31" tire in the future? Maybe the ratio will be just right for your lifestyle. That's my 2 pennies.