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New 347 Build... '75 Street Queen

Mountain Ram

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Recovering Masshole
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May 8, 2011
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Abingdon, VA
After a ton of research and reading all the reasons why I should drop in a 351 instead of building a 347... I am proceeding with a 347 stroker build anyway!!

My reasons- I already have an anemic 5.0efi in the truck, so most of what I need is there. I don't have headers, but the serp setup, harness and all the other accessories are in good shape- (and would likely have worked on a 351 as well). Before you bash me- it's my money and I can spend it how I want %) and I wanted to build this motor (it’s been a while). I just thought I would post up the progress here and my current costs for anyone interested. No need to post if you just want to say why to go 351… save that for someone else’s thread!

My truck’s basic specs:
1975 w/ 5.0, C4 with a B&M shift kit.
4.5" suspension & 3" body lift
HP D44 narrowed front with 4.56 gears & ARB locker.
Big bearing 9” rear with 4.56 & track lok
4 wheel disks with Hydroboost.
37” Toyo MTs
Lots of other stuff...

My goal is to have it complete by Super Celebration 2013. I want a driveable motor with good torque to push the 37s. Good sound and enough power to get out of its own way… maybe a little more.

I started by picking up a complete (minus front accessories) 1996 Ford Explorer 5.0 out of a running truck with right at 100k on it. Although it had an obvious oil leak from the oil pan for a long time- the motor looked OK on the outside. Upon teardown, I could have thrown new gaskets on this motor and dropped it in. It would likely have added 50Hp+ over the one that is in the Bronco now and lasted forever. BUT- I am ignorant, a glutton for punishment and want to clean up the entire engine bay while I am at it. Picking up another block will let me drive the truck until I need to pull the old motor. I actually started this process several months ago.

After motor teardown and cleaning, I notched the cylinders and tapped the front oil galleys for threaded plugs instead of press in. Dropped the block off and picked it up 4 days later.

I am still working out what direction for heads (GT40 irons or aluminum aftermarket) and cam.

Input always welcome!!
Todd

Block work:
Vat block $40
Magnaflux $0
Check line bore & deck $65
Bore & hone .030 $120
Brass Freeze plugs $20
Cam bearings install $55

Total so far
Used motor: $400
Block work $300
SCAT 347 Stroker kit: $1,100
Hyper pistons (dished 9:1)
Scat rods
Bearings & rings
Balanced
Harm balancer
Flexplate
 

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ScanmanSteven

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Dec 19, 2010
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1,129
Well, you shoulda went with a ... We'll be watching and waiting for the results, looks like a good start. Is the hp & torque in the higher rpm range with a 347?
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Looking for torque more than high RPM HP at this point. A lot depends on the cam and head selection. I want a drivable truck that will scoot...

I picked up some Ford Blue and shot a little on the motor to check the color... This is a very light shade of blue... Hope it looks good in the engine bay...

Todd
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
X2 you should have went with ...;) Anyhow I'd pick the heads you want that will give you the comp ratio you want. Although I would say that iron gt40's are probably not the best choice here. There about bottom of the line for even a stock 302 much less a stroker.
Canshaft choice is a tough one. with your gearing tire size and need for lowend I would almost stay with the explorer cam. butYou could probably get away with something a little larger with the stroker. I'd call a couple of cam companies and get there recommendations.
 

bigcountry

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Messages
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i will be building a 347 also. i have a eagle stroker kit with probe forged pistons. It will have a little more compression than i wanted at 9.8 to 10:1 but the kit was an awsome deal so i did not argue.

I have trick flow 170 cc heads and edelbrock air gap intake. I picked up the heads over a year ago from summit when they put them on sale at $999.

I will get a custom ground cam from cam motion. Anyway, i will am looking forward to see what you choose. Down load the cam quest program from comp cams, it is fun to play around with to give you an idea of different cams.
 

tasker

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NH
forgot to get back to ya, huh? %)
 

73azbronco

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Bronco Guru
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Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,974
Welcome to the club. Just finished my 347, delivery from machinsist this AM.

Edelbrock performer heads, 60cc volume, KB 366 stepped hyperT flatop pistons, SCAT stroker forged crank/ rods. To use the pistons I wanted, I had to pick different scat components so a little more cost than a kit.

My camshaft from fordstroker.com who I highly recommend:

J. DIAM: STD INT EXH
VALVE ADJUSTMENT HYD HYD
GROSS VALVE LIFT .561 .556
DURATION @ .006
TAPPET LIFT 260 270
VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE
@ .050 INT 3- 33
EXH 45 7-
SPECS FOR CAM INST. @ 108.0 CENTERLINE
INT EXH
DURATION @ .050 210.00 218.00
LOBE LIFT .351 .348
LOBE SEPARATION 112.0 FIRING ORDER STD
ROCKER ARM RATIO 1.60 1.60

Cam is a fordstroker design, compcams grind.

Cam installed advanced two degrees to drop RPM range, have not test driven it but by all accounts the way it starts right up and throttle response is fabulous.

I'm using a custom ignition system designed for this cam/motor, by Ignition Engineering. They used the shell of a Duraspark, set the curve to my cam/motor use, and limited advance to prevent detonation and piston issue (max 38 degree's), using a mopar ignition module which is cheaper than a Ford duraspark and reliable as the day is long in Phoenix summer heat.

Carb is a new out of the box Holley TA 650, no adjustment needed. I'm going to get a AFR reading once its insalled in vehicle.

My stroker lessons learned:

Don't be to afraid about pushing 9.8:1 CR, with the right cam and aluminum heads, dynamically the motor will be seeing about a CR of 8.5:1You'll only get into trouble if you fall for a cam thats too big.

You already found one, ensure all the oil galley plugs are tapped, forgot one and on first start lost oil pressure. The plugs don't like to be cleaned in a abrader, loosens them up.

Second lesson, every cam maker except fordstroker wanted to give me too big a camshaft, all worked from 1500 rpm on up. Compcams technicians one on one wanted to tighten up the LSA which would work counter to my goal (heavy truck, relatively hi CR, lower power band, excellent idle and vacuum).

Stay with a stock oil pump, last thing you need is hi pressure oil flying around inside finding an excuse to burn, stock pump gives me 60 psi at idle.

Classic rear end oil leak, two to be exact. First was standard rear intake leak, easily fixed, second hard to find, rear main seal, needed to buy the upgraded seal to get it to stop leaking. Not sure of that part number, sorry.

My recommendations: Make sure the cam works with your stuff, I spent four weeks going back and fourth with three cam designers before locking down this one. I was also going to try and fake it with an EFI camshaft (i thought I might be goint that way), but now satisfied I made the right choice sticking with a carb cam.

It sounds like you have EFI? If so, I highly recommend getting it to a tuner and solve your higher RPM issues once it gets running, at least verify AFR so you don't smoke the pistons. If your using hypers, stay below 38degrees advance.
 

AZ73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,546
Watching too. I'm an assembler, not a builder, and a 347 requires expertise for durability so I'm having mine done for me. 73AZBronco has been a wealth of information.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Painted the block this weekend and started measuring cylinder bores and bearing bores... I may not have it fully blueprinted, but I have the tools and capability to measure the primary components, so I will.

I have seen posts recommending painting the lifter galley and posts saying not too. I talked to the guy who did the machine work and he recommended it. Says he has never seen an issue with it on a motor he has cleaned.

Also- any suggestion on heads?? Looking at Edelbrock Performers now... AFRs are a little costly...

Todd
 

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73azbronco

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when you get the edelbrocks, I've had two machinists, one being mine, recommend testing the seated spring rate. Good thing I took that advice, machinist found more than half the valves to tight in the bore so he reamed them, cost me $200 but the piece of mind is there knowing that head will last forever. The spring rate needed a couple thousands shim to get them to speck for the lift.
 

Hozr

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Rogue Valley, OR
I built almost the exact same short block. I threw on a set of GT40P heads i had for the torque factor. I went with a edelbrock rpm airgap intake and Holley TA670 carb. 2 into 1 exhaust and the thing is a beast!!!! I love it.


The 347 badges really throw people off!

Good call
 

blazinchuck

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looking forward to the build...i have alum trick flow twisted wedge heads...i like'em
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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I built almost the exact same short block. I threw on a set of GT40P heads i had for the torque factor. I went with a edelbrock rpm airgap intake and Holley TA670 carb. 2 into 1 exhaust and the thing is a beast!!!! I love it.


The 347 badges really throw people off!

Good call

Ahhhh crap... I have heard so many people tell me to ditch the GT40 heads and then I get a post like this... The GT40 heads would be a much lower cost alternative.

I have also read a bunch of threads on many sites about quality issues with AFR, Trick Flow and now Edelbrock... I can't see dropping $1200-$1800 on a set of brand new heads and get misfit valves, mismatched heads, untapped holes, too shallow holes... Or assembled heads full of trash...

BTW- in case you can't tell, this build will likely drag on a while.

Todd
 

73azbronco

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drag on? I'm only 7 years into my six month freshen up...

GT40's can work, but you need to think comp ratio which will work with iron heads, as in mid 8's to no more than 9:1. You will probably need to use premium fuel.

Don't be afraid of the aftermarket heads. My machinist is very conservative, which is what I want, so when he talked about tight valves, he said they could be reamed based on advice from his racing engine machine shop friend, and I agreed.

Bottom line, putting a 347 together is for the most part, uncharted waters and you want to make sure the package works, not just that you managed to get 347 cubes. And yes, you need to look into everything as you are now the test engineer when it cranks for the first time, but its worth it.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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In my career I have engineered, developed, manufactured and assembled a lot of mechanical equipment, so I am not overly concerned with getting it together and running... I just want it to work fairly well...

I have little patience for poor quality and I have seen more than one motor give up a dropped valve or some other stupid thing due to someone elses errors...
 

blubuckaroo

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Ahhhh crap... I have heard so many people tell me to ditch the GT40 heads and then I get a post like this... The GT40 heads would be a much lower cost alternative.

I have also read a bunch of threads on many sites about quality issues with AFR, Trick Flow and now Edelbrock... I can't see dropping $1200-$1800 on a set of brand new heads and get misfit valves, mismatched heads, untapped holes, too shallow holes... Or assembled heads full of trash...

BTW- in case you can't tell, this build will likely drag on a while.

Todd

I'm not a fan of aluminum heads on a Bronco. The header bolts are just too easy to cross thread because they're hard to reach. Iron Windsor or Windsor Jr. heads would be a good candidate. The price is a bit better than their aluminum counterparts too.
BTW, you sound a bit defensive about your decision to stroke the 5.0. You shouldn't be. Before anyone critiques you, they need to drive a 347. If done right, it's way peppier than a 351W.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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I'm not a fan of aluminum heads on a Bronco. The header bolts are just too easy to cross thread because they're hard to reach. Iron Windsor or Windsor Jr. heads would be a good candidate. The price is a bit better than their aluminum counterparts too.
BTW, you sound a bit defensive about your decision to stroke the 5.0. You shouldn't be. Before anyone critiques you, they need to drive a 347. If done right, it's way peppier than a 351W.

Thanks for the input...

Defensive-maybe. I was only trying to prevent the same argument I have read a dozen times on here and other Bronco sites about the 347-351 debate...
 

73azbronco

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No problem on the coment Ram but be ready, this is a fourty year old vehicle, and in my recent experience, they make nothing as good as they did except for heads and intakes, and cranks, and pistons.
 
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