New carb and dist?

[66CTBronco]

Hi! So I have my father in laws 66 with the 170 and having read all over I’ve determined I have the wrong carb and distributor. I thought he had the engine replaced back in the 80’s so I was fearful that was the reason but just having purchased first edition copies of the factory books and the falcon engine performance book I set out to learn more. The block has an A.E.R. Mfg Inc sticker, so it is a rebuilt motor but also has the casting number C6DE 6015-A which i think means C-1960’s, 6-1966, D-Falcon, E-engine engineering. So it seems it has the right motor but lacking the carb and distributor of the Spark Control Valve variety. It’s quite underpowered I haven’t done a tuneup, it has an auto lite 1100 is there any advantage of trying to find an original carb and distributor to make it right? the best I could hope for is 105 horse but it would be the right parts…. Any thoughts or opinions to help me decide?
c

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, the original carb was a different carb than the Mustang and Falcon. Besides having a manual choke, it is also "heavy duty" for off road use. I can never find the model # of the correct carb. The Bronco also had the oil bath air cleaner. The older Ford six carbs all have the spark control valve, SCV, and distributors are load-o-matic, LOM. These older carbs and distributors must be used together. In 1968 Ford went with the newer style distributor and carb, eliminating the SCV, and LOM. Another big change was in 1969 the intake manifold opening was enlarged from 1 1/2" to 1 3/4", so the old carbs don't fit on the later engines, and visa-versa. Many guys change to the later carb and ignition for performance reasons, and many carbs and distributors are mis-matched because the "mechanics" don't know the difference between the two. If you want to restore the Bronco to factory specs you can find the correct carb and distributor, just make sure you have the early head with the smaller opening first. Visit fordsix.com for more info on your engine. Good luck

 

[66CTBronco]

i didn't know about the heavy duty bit for the carb. what i've seen mostly is many people advertising an EB carb with the ball for the throttle cable down low, not up high - and i thought the arm with the ball was supposed to be up. Yep with the manual choke also. I don't know if the throttle shafts and plates would exchange between models. I've read about the LOM and knew about the SCV and knew they needed to be used together. Not looking to restore, but i just like things to be right. Knowing the current carb and distributor are not LOM are the horsepower curves similar enough that i won't be going backwards with regards to power? I'll need to find the date code on the head as well to make sure it's early with the narrower throat too, good point, thanks for the tip. I already joined one of the ford inline 6 forums, lots of great help there too. THanks very much B ron co!
c

 

[Ovalis]

Yes the ball for the throttle should be up high at the 12:00 position. The throttle cable doesn't fit the ones at the 3:00 position.

 

[66CTBronco]

What makes a carb heavy duty? Is there a list or manual that describes it? If it’s only jetting that should be easy. Are the throttle shafts and plates interchangeable I.e. if I find a carb with the SCV can I take my linkage off mine and swap? Are there photos showing the difference or a part number that differentiates the regular distributor from one that uses the carb SCV that’s a load o matic? Way too many questions. I love books just don’t know whats out there or appropriate… thanks in advance
c

 

[okie4570]

Here's the correct carb and tag.

 

[66CTBronco]

Shoot I’m half way there I found a motor trend article from January 2010 on how to rebuild an autolite loadomatic distributor, it shows a part number, mentions the 66-67 bronco and low and behold I got one! My distributor is a C5DF 12127 so 65 falcon electrical division. My lack of power I think is related as the carb I have does not have a spark control valve so I’m guessing from what I’ve read the advance curve is all wrong. So it’s now just a carb. So, where can I learn the difference between a heavy duty 1100 and the wrong one I have now?
c

 

[66CTBronco]

No tag on my carb but it does not have the SCV next to that vacuum port like yours… and at this point I know it’s an 1100 but not knowing if it’s or heavy duty and with no SCV I’m paddling upstream. Thanks okie!
c

 

[Broncobowsher]

That load o matic wasn't the greatest thing ever. If you have the original distributor, it has no mechanical advance at all. The entire ignition advance is done off vacuum. That thing on the outside of the carburator that looks like a Holley powervalve, isn't. Screwy ignition advance where venturi vacuum acts as the mechanical advance, with some added advance from manifold vacuum through the mechanical amplifier vacuum dohicky. They were not known for performance even when new. And they only worked with everything was foctory original and in perfect condition.

Had one once on a 62 F100. Never could get it to run right. And it was all original. Traded that project and never looked back.

 

[66CTBronco]

Rebuilding and fixing are my pastimes I don’t mind and getting things to work right I get great satisfaction. From what I’ve read this carb (without SCV) and my loadomatic distributor are wrong and great lack of power… of which I can speak asan expert! It would be better with the right carb so I’m going to go hunting to try to find the right carb! Thank you!

 

[1970 Palmer]

No tag on my carb but it does not have the SCV next to that vacuum port like yours… and at this point I know it’s an 1100 but not knowing if it’s or heavy duty and with no SCV I’m paddling upstream. Thanks okie!
c

Just a wild guess on that empty boss next to the distributor advance line. I could have been for an electric throttle positioner. It allowed the throttle to close a extra distance when the ignition was turned off. It helped prevent the "run-on" or some called it "dieseling". They were also a handy feature on engines that had air conditioning, and you set them to increase the engine idle speed when the compressor was engaged.

Another guess. The Heavy Duty term could have meant nothing more than it having a manual choke linkage. These engines were installed into all kinds of different applications by Ford. I remember one sitting in the parts department lobby of our dealership with an irrigation water pump bolted to the back of it. Industrial, and Marine applications were just variations of Car and Truck engines.

When a part like an engine, alternator, water pump, fuel pump, carburetor is turned in as a core at the local parts store, you have no idea what they are giving you back as a rebuilt part.

 

[66CTBronco]

I agree. No idea.

 

[66CTBronco]

So I've obtained a carb that appears to have come from an early bronco, C5 date code, throttle linkage at the 12:00 position, spark control valve on the side. I'm now looking for jet size information. I've looked for charts and on places like Mikes and the chart there is pretty small, and have been unsuccessful elsewhere. Suggestions range from obtaining a jet kit (16 different sizes) and start in the middle and work one way or the other till things are right and that seems a little extreme. Is there any guidance on proper jet size for a december 65 build 66 bronco with the 170? Carb is a C5TF.
chris

 

[Ovalis]

I was running a 61 jet size on a carb without the spark control valve (not that the valve should make a difference) and it was a bit lean. I recently rebuilt another carb with the spark control valve and it has a 66 in it. I haven't had a chance to really run it to see if it's too rich, but this carb was out of a 66 bronco so I'm thinking that might be the correct size for it.
I recommend you get this part for the accelerator pump cover. My original carb was leaking gas and found the pump cover was warped. I read it's a common problem
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/1100-diaphragm-repair-plate-85-128b

 

[66CTBronco]

dang already placed my order with mikes and didn't get those and that would have put me over for free shipping darn! thanks! 66 sounds like as good a place as any to start at least there's a positive reference for it! thank you Ovalis.
c

 

[66CTBronco]

Ok Okie's C6TF-F is listed at mikes for a 64-67 ford truck. My C5TF-G is a 65-67 ford truck. same base different suffix (F versus G.) I have a 69 orifice in this one, and Ovalis had a 66. I've read one jet size either way won't make much difference at all. I've emailed Mikes to see if they can hold my order so i can add a few other things (a few jets i won't mind especially if i can test and drill out larger if need be rather than getting the full set of 16...) thanks so much for the help so far! when i yank the carb off my 170 ill see what jet is in there. I honestly don't know if it's running rich or lean at the moment i should pull the plugs and check and that'll give me a little more confirmation which direction to head.

I've gotta say there's a lot more love in the bronco crowd than there is in the studebaker crowd (one of my other drivers.) I get more waves with this, and have had people follow me up my driveway to talk about it - that's a little freaky, but how bad can bronco lovers be anyway?!?!?
c

 

[1970 Palmer]

I was running a 61 jet size on a carb without the spark control valve (not that the valve should make a difference) and it was a bit lean. I recently rebuilt another carb with the spark control valve and it has a 66 in it. I haven't had a chance to really run it to see if it's too rich, but this carb was out of a 66 bronco so I'm thinking that might be the correct size for it.
I recommend you get this part for the accelerator pump cover. My original carb was leaking gas and found the pump cover was warped. I read it's a common problem
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/1100-diaphragm-repair-plate-85-128b

This is a very common problem part on many Ford/Autolite carb models during the 1960's early 70's. I don't think I ever took one apart that was not previously over tightened and warped. They are very soft and can be easily straightened by opening up your vise as a dolly to support the sides and use a small body hammer to tap down on the exposed middle. Straighten the two sides, then turn it 90 degrees and do the same to the other two sides. Use a small ruler to check for flatness. Use a piece of flat glass and a piece of 320 grit paper to sand flat to assure a fully flat surface. Accelerator pump covers and power valve covers have the same problem. 1100/2100/4100.

 

[66CTBronco]

sounds logical and easy - i follow the vice/corners/rotate but 100%. considering i managed to flatten .019 from the head of my farmall cub using sandpaper and plate glass these little covers should be a snap thank you!
c

 

[66CTBronco]

Got a 66 carb and rebuilt it with parts from mikes including power valve which lots of places say don’t touch… I’ve got to have 30-40 more horsepower wow what a fun truck to drive! Thank you all for your help!

 

[okie4570]

Got a 66 carb and rebuilt it with parts from mikes including power valve which lots of places say don’t touch… I’ve got to have 30-40 more horsepower wow what a fun truck to drive! Thank you all for your help!

Does he sell that rebuild as a kit for that carb or piece by piece only?