So I finally replaced my light switch today, my side markers and tail lights are now working but my gauges and dash lights are still out.
Did you fiddle with the rheostat adjustment to make sure that it's turned all the way up instead of down?
Those missing lights are the only ones actually on a fuse. They're on the small fuse in the stock fuse panel. You said you checked and cleaned the fuses, but did you check for voltage going through it with the headlight switch on?
The bulbs in the instrument cluster actually can burn out. I've probably replaced most of them at least two or three times since I bought it 40 years ago.
And the bulbs in the dash light bars are notorious for burning out. Not really too soon, but since they're generally considered a non-serviceable item, they could be bad and you're chasing a problem that doesn't exist at the wrong end of the circuit.
Only way to test is either with a meter or by checking them individually with known power to the contact points.
The only gauge that bounces around is my ammeter when I pull the light switch then settles down at the half way mark.
That's a good sign that it's at least partially working. And that the lights are working somewhere, or you would not see the needle move.
When you fire up the engine you should see this needle run up to probably 30 amps for a moment or two, then start to slowly come down back to just above zero. And any time you turn something on like the lights or heater or whatever, you should see it jump for a second then settle down again.
Sorry if you knew all that already, but if you have not driven the Bronco before, you might not be aware of how a direct-wire ammeter acts during normal use.
I have no blinkers except my blinker left tail light stays on constantly (steady burn) when I hit the left turn signal but no flashing and nothing when I hit the turn signal to the right.
The no flashing part might still be due to poor wiring somewhere, but you also need to check the flasher unit under the dash. There are two. One for the 4-way flashers and one for the turn signals. They are different part numbers, but you can swap them to see if things change.
Do your flashers work?
I have no brake lights as well.
As was said, the power comes from the headlight switch, to the brake light switch, then to the turn signal switch. You might have a bad turn signal switch (very, VERY common), or still have some wiring issues.
Only way to tell is through further testing. Great fun, right?%)
So I guess the fun begins in checking out the grounds and buying a circuit tester. But hey, at least the beast fired up a few weeks ago!
If you've gotten this far without a volt-meter, you've just been living on borrowed time. You have to have one to work on an old car of any description. Broncos just happen to be worse than most, but any of them will need a good volt/ohm meter at some point.
Good luck.
Remember, if you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Paul
