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Pump to Carb fuel line Return?

Midnight

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
23
I am having a little leak where the fuel line comes out of the mechanical pump on my 73 302. Figured I would just change out the line between the pump and the carb, but I am having a tough time finding a replacement.

I want to stick with the a pre-bent molded model. I don't trust myself to bend one cleanly, don't want to mess with adding clamps for a braided model.

Problem is my model has a what looks like a little filter and return back to the tank. It seems no one sells one with a T in the middle. I have seen where some people just cap that off and have no return. Am I losing anything by capping it off and having no return? I already have so many fuel issues as it is, that just seems like inviting trouble.

I tried to include a couple pictures, but I can't figure it out so here are a couple links. The T sits right between the distributor and carburetor.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W5UnMp6OrUkfXU4NKV3WmPR7iSXBivLf/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g4iGJNgs9purdSvEPkQQVdj2HtjVkeED/view?usp=sharing

Suggestions?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
What you have is a 73-ish only return line setup.
You should also have the accompanying six port fuel selector valve under the seat.
Yes you can cap it off too, but I would prefer to leave it as return lines have several benefits.
But as far as I know, like you have found, nobody reproduces either item and you’ll have to make your own tube no matter what. Or keep on using the original.

How bad is the condition of the existing one?
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,355
Looking at the pictures, it looks to be still in pretty good shape. Maybe you can just buff it out and paint it?
Or just scrub it down with some scotch Brite and call it a day.
 
OP
OP
Midnight

Midnight

New Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
23
What you have is a 73-ish only return line setup.
You should also have the accompanying six port fuel selector valve under the seat.
Yes you can cap it off too, but I would prefer to leave it as return lines have several benefits.
But as far as I know, like you have found, nobody reproduces either item and you’ll have to make your own tube no matter what. Or keep on using the original.

How bad is the condition of the existing one?
The fastener nut is a bit soft around the edges, but the line is actually in pretty good shape. The leak is where it connects to the fuel pump. I have not figured which part is actually leaking. Since I just changed the pump last year I figured I would start with the line. But who knows I might have damaged the pump when installing.
 
OP
OP
Midnight

Midnight

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Jan 4, 2017
Messages
23
The threads seem OK. for no reason I feel like it is the Flange not sealing properly. That was the theory I was going on.
 

thegreatjustino

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Red Head Grease Monkey
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Jan 23, 2002
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15,624
Loc.
Stockton, CA
You should also have the accompanying six port fuel selector valve under the seat.

Only if the Bronco came with two tanks. My stock '73 Ranger with the return system in place was ordered with just the main tank, so no fuel switching valve at all under the seat.
 
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OP
Midnight

Midnight

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Jan 4, 2017
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Mine does have two tanks, but I think it is only a 3-way switch, but never look that closely. The return does go all the way back to the main tank not the switch. As best as I can tell, there sure are a lot of lines that criss cross under there. I have no idea what changed on the car between 1973 and 1989.
 

DirtDonk

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Well I'll tell you one thing that changed... The switching valve.
If it's only got three ports and your return line goes to only one tank, the original probably failed at some point, the PO realized they could not get a correct replacement, and just did the most expedient repair.
It works, but you have to make sure you always run on the main tank first or you run the risk of it overflowing from the return fuel getting into an otherwise full tank.

Good call Justin. I still tend to assume dual tanks when thinking of Early Broncos. Even though I know plenty of them came with only one.
I just can't imagine running around on just one though! Even with my big 23ga version I wish I had the second tank even at only 7ga or so.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, and Midnight, if it's true that you no longer have a 6-way switching valve, just eliminate the return line completely and you won't have to worry about how to make that bit under the hood work again.
Personally I'd still rather keep it and fix the leak, but it's only as good as the rest of the system is. If you keep the return to the main tank, just remember to run the main tank down at least half before driving on the aux tank.

Paul
 
OP
OP
Midnight

Midnight

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Jan 4, 2017
Messages
23
thanks for the info, I looked over everything, don't really see any cracks. I would like to keep the return, so I think I am going to switch the pump. they are not to expensive, so hopefully that cure everything.
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
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It might cure everything. Then again, it might just give you a defective pump to worry about.
Modern pumps don’t have a particularly stellar reputation for reliability. Or for that matter, even just working correctly right out of the box!

Are you sure the fitting is tight currently? I assume you checked that but had to ask anyway. Sometimes they just need a little extra nudge to stop leaking.
 
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OP
Midnight

Midnight

New Member
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Jan 4, 2017
Messages
23
Put the old pump back in, (was not sure it was bad when I pulled it out) No leak, for now. Guess it was the pump and not the line. I must have damaged it when I put it in a year or so ago, or it was defective to begin with.
Either way, no leak. all is right with the world, until something else breaks.

Thanks for everyone's help
 
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