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Radiator? Who has a test proven durability?

Master Chief

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Nov 24, 2006
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Our local radiator shop owner looked up the specs on an original three core, auto transmission radiator. Book shows 10 fins per inch, he ordered a new core with 12 fins per inch and rebuilt my radiator with that. I also run a shroud with an OEM seven blade fan. The 331 operating temp stays 195 regardless of how hot or cold it is outside.
 

toddz69

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Our local radiator shop owner looked up the specs on an original three core, auto transmission radiator. Book shows 10 fins per inch, he ordered a new core with 12 fins per inch and rebuilt my radiator with that. I also run a shroud with an OEM seven blade fan. The 331 operating temp stays 195 regardless of how hot or cold it is outside.

That's a good way to increase the efficiency. The stock cores also have tubes on 9/16" centers and the higher efficiency units have them on 3/8" centers along with the higher fpi counts you mention. I think mine from US Radiator has 13-14 fpi iirc.

Todd Z.
 

Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
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10,875
I use a Brass staggered 4 core radiator that i bought over 30 years ago. I have had no radiator core or tank failures but the mounting straps had to be re- soldered 3 times this running in stock Bronco mounts. a fair amount of twisty off road.
 

KCSPONY

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Anyone running the Tom's 4 core triple pass aluminum radiator?

I just bought one, waiting for a chance to install
 

toddz69

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Is this for electrolysis reasons? What would you sugges

I presume yes. I went through 3 RD radiators in my truck in about 5? years. Two of them failed in the exact same way and I can't recall how the 3rd one failed. I think when the second one failed, they cut open the pass side tank on the radiator and found a huge area of black coating on the inside of the tank, indicating electrolysis/corrosion. The GM, who happened to be a good friend and active in the EB community, recommended I attach a ground strap to the flange of the pass side tank on the third radiator. I did that and I don't think I had the corrosion issues on the 3rd radiator.

After the 3rd failure, we mutually agreed it would probably be best that I go back to copper/brass radiators on my truck, which I did.

Todd Z.
 

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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I ran a RD for a couple years and w/o changing anything else, just swapping in the it wouldn't cool my 351W at speed. Idling it was fine. I had a 16fin/inch core. I think Bruce and I figured that airflow through the core was an issue at speed but not as much as the epoxy that was put on every joint for strength. I think that reduced the cooling efficiency too much since heat transfer doesn't really happen through epoxy.

I bolted in a stock 351W Granada radiator and problem solved. Ran that radiator for years w/o any heating or other issues.

Let's hope my Griffin lasts as long as my Granada radiator did. :)
 

nvrstuk

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Google search??
 

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hossbronco

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Is this for electrolysis reasons? What would you sugges

Some people use a radiator cap with a sacrificial anode to help (WH sells one). I can't comment on the efficacy of that. Ron Davis actually sells a master grounding kit that comes with several tinned copper cables and instructions for grounding. Something like that might be a place to start.

I'm not an expert on the subject, but I do know that proper grounding in your vehicle is important to prevent electrolysis in aluminum radiators.
 

nvrstuk

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Easy if you have an accurate VOM to check for "stray" voltage across your radiator fluid and a good ground. Stick a probe into the coolant with the engine coolant up to temp-take cap off while it's cool and ahead of time so you don't get burned. Connect the other probe to an excellent ground. Think you are looking for .4 volts or less
 

hossbronco

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I ran a RD for a couple years and w/o changing anything else, just swapping in the it wouldn't cool my 351W at speed. Idling it was fine. I had a 16fin/inch core. I think Bruce and I figured that airflow through the core was an issue at speed but not as much as the epoxy that was put on every joint for strength. I think that reduced the cooling efficiency too much since heat transfer doesn't really happen through epoxy.

I bolted in a stock 351W Granada radiator and problem solved. Ran that radiator for years w/o any heating or other issues.

Let's hope my Griffin lasts as long as my Granada radiator did. :)

Let's hope I have better luck with my RD than you did. I know Jason at BC ran a RD with a 427 with Explorer serpentine and a C6 in the Baja 1000, and he had to drive it in 2nd gear to keep the RPMs up and keep the water flowing. Maybe it will come down to installing the right fan?
 

nvrstuk

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Hope you do!

I had the same shroud and fan on my RD and Granada rad's.

During all this I did the block pressure test recommended by several radiator
manufacturers and the Heat Torture test btw the Tauras and Exploder fans.
 

toddz69

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Doesn't WH sell a nice copper/brass radiator?

Yes, their industrial 4-core staggered unit is a real nice HD unit. I've been running one for almost 10 years now. It gives up a bit in efficiency to the high-efficiency 3 core units (like those from US Radiator) but I still like it.

Todd Z.
 

bronco italiano

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I put a Champion aluminum in my sons 240Z and it has done very well, but I prefer copper brass for the slow moving vehicles.
 
OP
OP
BoltBuster

BoltBuster

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Jun 5, 2002
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Does anyone know if the stock radiator a 4 core single pass? It appears that way.
 

Joe473

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Jul 16, 2012
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950
Yes, their industrial 4-core staggered unit is a real nice HD unit. I've been running one for almost 10 years now. It gives up a bit in efficiency to the high-efficiency 3 core units (like those from US Radiator) but I still like it.



Todd Z.
Todd,

I'd be curious of the fin count and tube size on that vs the old BC. Any experience with the tri flow vs single pass on those 4 core units? They do appear well made.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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