Replacing the clutch on '72 302

[jj72]

So, I have been reading threads and articles on all that you should replace and consider when changing out your clutch which would include the following:
1. Clutch kit that includes at least a new clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate and centering tool.
2. A new pilot bearing. Grease needed on either of the new bearings?
3. Replace the rear main seal.
4. Resurface the flywheel before installing all other new parts.

My question is - What does resurfacing entail? Could I take an orbital sander and knock down any imperfections or do I need to find someone with a proper lathe to turn it down .010 or so? Does someone like O'Reilly's do this or do I need to go find a machine shop of some type? Do I even need to resurface the flywheel to begin with?

What other hidden mines am I missing in the mine field before I get going on this journey?

 

[Timmy390]

I got my flywheel resurfaced at NAPA 20 plus years ago. I'm told they still do this. Also told OReillys does this to. When I upgraded to my W I bought a new FW

3. Replace the rear main seal. If it's not leaking I wouldn't touch it. 2 piece rear mains are a pain.....Drop oil pan, remove main cap , loosen the other mains.....it's a pain.

I would suggest a LUK clutch kit diaphragm style and not the 3 finger stock style. Diaphragm had much smoother operation.

Tim

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, if the flywheel is not bad you can go over it with a rolac disc in your die grinder. Otherwise a machine shop with have a dedicated flywheel grinder, or another way to resurface it.
The pilot bushing, input shaft, throw out bearing and fork pivots should get a little grease on every moving part.
I would also consider pulling the engine to do the job, rather than working underneath.
Good luck

 

[BOBS 2 68S]

I agree with B RON CO. I will pull the engine. I leave the bell housing on the transmission so I don't have to blindly line up the throw out bearing. I put some all thread on the back of the block to use as line up pins.
It is what I found works for me

 

[bmc69]

Having the flywheel surface ground is pretty much an absolute requirement to do that job properly....in my opinion.

 

[bax]

With the lack of machine shops in my area and how busy the few we have are , its easier to just buy a new flywheel.

 

[Timmy390]

I've done this job by pulling the engine and by pulling T-case and trans. Six of one, half a dozen of the other....

You can do it from the under side without any special tools if you can manhandle the T-case. It's heavy...I did this back when I was young and full of piss and vinegar. The T-case is HEAVEY. VERY HEAVY.

Now I use either an engine hoist/cherry picker or from below a transmission jack I got from Harbor. I built a box to hold the T-case and strap everything to the jack.

Tim

 

[Pa PITT]

I agree that doing something with the flywheel is needed...
Now having said that..
1st How's you budget. If you can't even afford the Pilot bushing... Then working around not doing some stuff..
SO It maybe just as cheap to buy a new flywheel asto have it turned in a big shop today. Big Note be careful when putting your bolts back into from you clutch to the Flywheel. They can strip fast.
... I've taken a grind wheel & done a couple that way & My flywheel still shook Like A dog s-hitting a peach seed.
Later I had to have a clutch put in mine while I worked at Chrysler .. Clutch went out the day before we left to go to New Mexico hunting . 2 Techs I wrote service for .. Jumped on it & put it in, in about 4 hours.. THANKS TO ''BILL. Ronnie & Skitter Joe''
Bill surfaced my flywheel with his grinder. It was so smooth when done.
If it's a pilot bushing & it's till good . I'd wipe itwith a slight amount of grease & be done . But remember a lot of grease is how it's pulled.
GOOD LUCK...
REMEMBER PLASTIC SHIFT ROD BUSHING NORMALLY WORK IN CLUTCH ROD BUSHING ALSO .
& Remember nothing is normal every time on our old Bronco after 12 P.O. & one Pa Pitt has worked on it before .

 

[Broncobowsher]

Pilot bearing or pilot bushings. Stock is a bushing. Modern stuff is a bearing. I look at the snout of the input shaft to decide which is best. If it is like new, bearing will be fine. If it is a little worn in, I would stick with a bushing. It will conform to the imperfections better. The bearing will usually come pre-greased and leave that alone. The bushing I put a tiny, very tiny, amount of high temp grease in it. It soaks into the metal and you don't want excess to fling onto the disk.

Most throw out bearings don't use any extra grease, sealed bearing. Just install as they come out of the box. There are rare ones that have a grease zerk, grease those.
The face of the throw out bearing, where it rides against the fingers, a very fine smear of grease as well. Again, not enough to fling off and get onto stuff. Couple of dabs on the pivot points of the fork.

Rear main can be a tough call. If it is leaking, yes, replace. If not, you might have a leaker after replacing if things don't go perfect. The 1-piece rear main is easier to change now as it comes out the back. But the original engine uses a 2-piece that comes out the bottom. And often a leak that appears to be from that area is actually the back of the intake leaking down the back of the block.

Now for resurfacing, yes, find a machine shop to do it. As the clutch wears the flywheel will wear grooves as well as creates high and low spots. Ever had warped brake rotors? Same idea. Sanding makes things clean, but does not machine the flywheel true and flat. You need true and flat for that new pressure plate to give an even squeeze on the clutch disk.

30 years ago I worked at an Oriellies. That location had a flywheel grinder. Our store was only one that had one. Other stores had specality services, like making hydraulic hoses. We just traded services. Not sure if they still do that after the aquisition years ago.

 

[jj72]

I was looking over all the items I need to unbolt/remove and several things came to mind:
1. What is the hose or connection from the back of the transfer case that appears to run up the driver's side front wheel well?
2. Is there anything tricky about removing the transfer case shifter handle from the floor board?
3. Are there any bolts that are between the transmission and bell housing or between the bell housing and the back of the block that are hard to get to if you are underneath the vehicle?

 

[Broncobowsher]

1) speedometer cable. Remove the little retaining bolt and clip then it will pull straight out. Might take a little tug if the O-ring is sticky. Cosider replacing the O-ring
2) never had a stock one, can't fully answer
3) the top 2 bellhousing to block bolts can be easier to access from on top of the engine, but might be in the "it depends" catagory of what other stuff is around and what tools you have.

 

[Revelation]

With the lack of machine shops in my area and how busy the few we have are , its easier to just buy a new flywheel.

They are becoming a thing of the past. As far as motor machine work if you need any check out my sister in laws shop, Pigs Performance in St. Cloud.

 

[bax]

Thanks I will keep that info on a note.

 

[jj72]

Okay, so the next problem I am running into is removing the bolt from the exhaust manifold. I have tried penetrating oil over several days application to remove the bolt. Are there any suggestions to removing bolts from the exhaust manifold? I noticed I had 1 bolt and 1 nut mounting the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Why is there one of each? Are bolts prone to getting welded inside the manifold or should I always be able to get the bolt out? Are magnetic induction bolt removal tools foolproof or are they sometimes not enough? The sailing has definitely not been smooth lately.