Replacing the clutch

[raleigh_bronco]

Any special tools needed to do a clutch replacement? How do you get out the old pilot bearing and the old throw out bearing? This is the first clutch I've ever done. Any information you care to pass to a newbie would be appreciated.

 

[trailpsycho]

It wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. A couple of large wrenches (11/16-I think for the clutch equalizer bar), other than that its pretty standard tools. The bearing on the clutch fork juist pops off. The pilot bearing is best removed by loading the hole with wheel bearing grease and then taking an appropriately diameter shaft and driving it in to generate hydraulic pressure to push the bearing out. I have heard people say that peanut butter works good too. The bearing grease worked, but it did take a little while and we were using the input shaft from another ford tranny, so it fit well. I have heard people on this site say that a wooden dowl works, but I would find an appropriate piece of steel rod if possible. Really the worst part is having to take the tranny and TC down to get to it....those things are not light. Make sure you have a good stable jack to use. Fortunately, we were able to do it in a shop with a lift and a super-tall tranny jack. We did it as one piece. Best of luck.

John

 

[SC74]

Make sure there are 2 of you under it if you don't have a lift. I've done several bronco clutches without lifts and the t-case is a two person job to lift out. It's basically unbolt and re-bolt. Be careful on the cross member bolts - I've had trouble stripping those before. Good Luck.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

Yeah, I'll have a tranny jack. I plan to unbolt and drop the t-case and tranny together if possible, then bolt the t-case to my fresh NP435.

So, there is nothing here special about replacing the clutch? Sounds to me like I just pull off the old throw out bearing and roller/bushing and put the new clutch, pressure plate, disc and 2 bearing parts in... are there any dimensional relationships or gaps that need to be held here?

 

[trailpsycho]

You will need a clutch allignment tool (or similar input shaft) to keep the clutch centered, that is about it, I think. Congrats on the NP435. When I did mine, I put in an NV3550. NIce.

 

[70_Steve]

Don't forget about the clutch alignment tool. You will need some way of aligning the clutch disk as you tighten up the pressure plate. Sometimes, if you buy a complete clutch kit (clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bushing, throwout bearing) they will include an alignment tool. Worst case is that you have to use the transmission it's self to align the clutch disk. But if you have a tranny jack, it might not be all that hard.

Edit: gotta learn how to type faster!!! ;D

 

[67PONY]

Make sure you lock your 3 speed in first gear when you pull the t-case off of it. Otherwise, the output shaft will separate from the case and all the roller bearings will fall out, requiring a complete rebuild.

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

So, there is nothing here special about replacing the clutch?

It's just a basic unbolt and bolt back together process. I've used the grease and rod trick for removing the pilot bearing and I have also used a little puller my buddy has for pulling the bearings. I haven't had any trouble with either way.

I plan to unbolt and drop the t-case and tranny together if possible, then bolt the t-case to my fresh NP435.

I would seperate them to make each piece easier to handle. I removed mine without a jack and by splitting them. The T-case is heavier than the 3 spd but still managable. Even with a transmission jack the NP will be easier to work with by itself with out the T-case hanging off of the back.

 

[raleigh_bronco]

Is the alignment tool generic or is it just shaft diameter dependent? What is the size I need?

thanks to everyone that replied to this thread... I feel a bit more confident now, which is scary.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Is the alignment tool generic or is it just shaft diameter dependent? What is the size I need?

thanks to everyone that replied to this thread... I feel a bit more confident now, which is scary.

The tools are available either way. For your application I would just recomend an application specific tool. Don't worry, they often come in the clutch kit. If not they should only be a couple of bucks.

The one size fits all tool has expanding arbors and is much more expensive.

I have had luck using screwdriver handles and have known other people to just remove the input shaft from the transmission to use as an alignment tool.

As for the piolet bushing, I used a large bolt. Put a few wrapps of eletrical tape on it to make it a good fit into the old bushing. Packed with grease, put in bolt, hit with hammer, removed bolt, couple more shots of grease, bolt again. Took about 5 reloads of grease to "jack" the bushing out of the crank.

 

[DonsBolt]

If you buy a clutch from one of the venders they normally supply the Allignment tool

Also I recomend installing a roller pilot bearing while you have it all apart

 

[raleigh_bronco]

If you buy a clutch from one of the venders they normally supply the Allignment tool

Also I recomend installing a roller pilot bearing while you have it all apart

It replaces the old pilot bushing, right?
I hope Car Quest or Napa carries them.

 

[70_Steve]

Personal preference on the pilot bearing vs pilot bushing. I've talked to people that say they'll never use a pilot bearing again. Said they had them seize up and score the tranny input shaft. I've used both and never noticed a difference. I figure either one will outlast the clutch disk, and I always replace the pilot whatever when I replace the clutch.

If you use the grease trick to remove the pilot whatever, be sure to dig all that grease out of the end of the crankshaft before installing the new pilot whatever.

Ford input shaft should be 1 1/16" by 10 spline. As I mentioned, you can use your tranny input shaft to do the alignment, especially since you've got a tranny jack. I just did this when I installed my NV4500. Forgot to order the alignment tool and wanted to get it done NOW!!!