Any suggestions on torque specs for the hubs?
You mean for doing the front wheel bearings?
If so, then when you re-pack the bearings with grease (whether new bearings, or the old ones if they are still good) then these are the steps per the book:
1. Bearings installed, tighten the inner adjusting nut (the one with the small pin facing outward) down to 50lbs while turning the wheel/hub. This sets the bearing and squeezes out excess grease.
2. Back off the nut 90° (ignore how loose the bearings are and just move on to the next step).
3. Install the locking ring with one of the holes fitted perfectly over the pin on the inner nut. If it does not line up perfectly, you can flip the washer around. If it still does not fit you can turn the inner nut a tiny bit to make the pin fall into one of the holes.
4. Outer lock nut torqued to 100lbs
5. For me the last step is also to check bearing free-play. You can do this with a dial-indicator, or just by feel since most don't have one of those tools in their garage it seems like.
For the "feel" method, when you rock your hub/drum/rotor/wheel back and forth you should just barely be able to sense a slight movement in the bearings. And they should roll freely.
If you don't feel any little "tick tick" or "snick snick" if you prefer, when testing, then it might be too tight. And if it's notably harder to turn than it was when they were loose, then it's way too tight. But if you did the first steps properly then it's rarely too tight.
Step #4 is where you probably see more of the variations. I've seen anywhere from 30lbs to 70lbs on YouTube, and 70lbs to 200lbs in shop manuals. And they talk about "preload" on the bearings on YouTube a lot too.
You need to get AT LEAST 70lbs on that outer nut for it to stay tight over the long haul when driving, and there is no such thing as preload on these bearings for our use.
For me, 100lbs seems to just be better. And it's also the more common rating in the books. Typically written as "100-120 pounds" or something like that. But they're big nuts and can take a ton of torque, so don't skimp. Some of the discrepancies might come from the difference between an F150/Bronco and an F250/350 as well. Many of those are up near the 200lb rating and even above.
My go-to reading for the Broncos is 100lbs and it's never let me down.
After the final torque is when you can test your free-play.
Paul