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steering wanders

chris

No more Rock Crawler
Joined
Nov 27, 2002
Messages
1,893
My front end seems to wander pretty good. Ball joints are good, steering box is tight.

Looked at the tie rods and they are tight but the turn when the steering link is turned.

Is that normal for the tie rod to rotate when turned?
 

kaw550

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
1,135
Not sure if it is normal but mine turn a little.
Any lift? What do you have for C bushings?
 
OP
OP
chris

chris

No more Rock Crawler
Joined
Nov 27, 2002
Messages
1,893
3 1/2" lift and the c bushings were replaced by the PO, I can only assume they are the right ones. I was thinking the same thing and replacing them.
 

ilovemaui

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
1,651
Loc.
Pacific Moist West
It took me a couple years and basically replacing everything in the front end before I finally got it to the point where I can drive at ease with one hand.

New parts:

Steering box
Steering pump
Pump hoses
Extendable steering rod with u-joint
Steering column bearings
Extended radius arms
Ruff stuff steering linkage with chevy one ton ball joints

The extended radius arms gave me some needed caster and the ball joints really tightened things up.

Good luck it was a frustrating process for me but it did work out.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,265
Unfortunately, the rotating tie-rod thing is actually common. But it's not "normal" with regard to it being desirable.
Do you know if your steering is stock or has been modified/customized?
Have you done the test with a helper turning the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the entire front end? Doing this (with the tires on the ground of course) can show you things you can't see any other way. Like a crack in the frame behind the steering box, or a loose trackbar mount.

Whenever mine wandered a bit, or followed the grooves in the road, it was often as not the trackbar. Even a tiny bit of movement here can get you to wandering.
Did it once with all new bushings. Turned out the lower bolt had broken it's weld and was just barely wobbling. Only way to tell that was to perform the steering test.

Got pics?

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,265
Forgot to mention that tire pressure and toe-in can make a big difference here too.

Good luck.

Paul
 

Jeff76

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
638
Loc.
Alpharetta GA
3 1/2" lift and the c bushings were replaced by the PO, I can only assume they are the right ones. I was thinking the same thing and replacing them.

I just replaced new mine last week. New ones installed by PO were 2*, but the fronts were installed upside down. Went to 7* and it really helped.

Here's my thread:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203503

Also here's another thread where I learned a lot:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203401

The keys that I have learned are:

1) Steering Geometry - track bar / drag link need to be as parallel and horizontal as possible. Sometimes Drop Pitmans are warranted, But Axle risers are almost always preferred.

2) Linkages and bushings need to be tight. C bushings, rad arm bushings, Track Bar bushings and tie rod ends.

3) Ball Joints / Hubs - 40 year old vehicles often have slop here. This can affect handling. Replace / rebuild.

4) Tire pressure - You can have most everything right, but with 35 PSI in your modern tires, a bronco will buck you. Try 25-28 PSI, and you will be shocked at how much better it drives.

5) Frame mounts - Steering box and track bar - These have a tendancy to crack in EBs, and the handling consequences are disasterous. Have a friend turn the wheels right and left on a stationary bronco and get underneath to verify there is no flex in these two mounts

6) Steering column rag joint - This can wear over time, and become a hazard. Replace if necessary.

7) Caster - This was my missing element. It acts like a buffer to make small defects in the rest of the system less pronounced. With a PS and a quick turn box it appears that more is better, and many are running 5*+ positive caster. This give the feel of a more modern vehicle, but Ford originally recommended 2.8*-4.25* on my '76. This can be changed by C bushings (easiest), Drop/longer/adjustable radius arms, cutting/rotating the knuckles, etc..

8) What else did I forget guys?
 

Jeff76

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
638
Loc.
Alpharetta GA
Should have read the responses first, before offering my 2 cents. These guys are very experienced. Just do what ever Dirtdonk tells you. ; )

He's the Bronco Master! I have learned a lot from his threads!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,265
Thanks Jeff!

I think what really happened was that you just couldn't see my last post because, at only two lines long, it was cleverly hidden. And besides, one that short couldn't possibly have been one of mine!

Your 2 cents was just what was needed to put it all together.

Paul
 
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