3 1/2" lift and the c bushings were replaced by the PO, I can only assume they are the right ones. I was thinking the same thing and replacing them.
I just replaced new mine last week. New ones installed by PO were 2*, but the fronts were installed upside down. Went to 7* and it really helped.
Here's my thread:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203503
Also here's another thread where I learned a lot:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203401
The keys that I have learned are:
1) Steering Geometry - track bar / drag link need to be as parallel and horizontal as possible. Sometimes Drop Pitmans are warranted, But Axle risers are almost always preferred.
2) Linkages and bushings need to be tight. C bushings, rad arm bushings, Track Bar bushings and tie rod ends.
3) Ball Joints / Hubs - 40 year old vehicles often have slop here. This can affect handling. Replace / rebuild.
4) Tire pressure - You can have most everything right, but with 35 PSI in your modern tires, a bronco will buck you. Try 25-28 PSI, and you will be shocked at how much better it drives.
5) Frame mounts - Steering box and track bar - These have a tendancy to crack in EBs, and the handling consequences are disasterous. Have a friend turn the wheels right and left on a stationary bronco and get underneath to verify there is no flex in these two mounts
6) Steering column rag joint - This can wear over time, and become a hazard. Replace if necessary.
7) Caster - This was my missing element. It acts like a buffer to make small defects in the rest of the system less pronounced. With a PS and a quick turn box it appears that more is better, and many are running 5*+ positive caster. This give the feel of a more modern vehicle, but Ford originally recommended 2.8*-4.25* on my '76. This can be changed by C bushings (easiest), Drop/longer/adjustable radius arms, cutting/rotating the knuckles, etc..
8) What else did I forget guys?