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super duty hydro boost fittings/hoses

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
just about ready to start on my hydro boost install. Wondering if any members here have done this exact install that can help me out with a list of hoses and fittings to complete the install from start to finish? this will save me multiple trips shopping and searching for the correct parts/fittings

also i have a few questions that i am unsure of
1. do i need a power steering cooler?
2. do i need a proportioning valve for my disk/drum setup?
3. do i need a H block?


96 explorer 5.0, explorer front dress, explorer power steering pump.
EB 6 turn power steering box.
ax15
dana 20
dana 44, chevy diskbrake conversion
small bearing 9" rear, drum brakes`
33x12.50x15

what i have so far for my HB setup

- 2000 SD hydro boost complete with hoses
- firewall plate made of 3/16" aluminum
- Diplomat master cylinder
- 1/2" spacer for correct push rod length and orientation to booster
above taken from http://www.emotoman.com/4x4/hydroboost/hydroboost.html


all info, suggestions and recommendations are welcomed.

thank you in advance!
 

badandy73

Contributor
Broncoholic
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
88
just about ready to start on my hydro boost install. Wondering if any members here have done this exact install that can help me out with a list of hoses and fittings to complete the install from start to finish? this will save me multiple trips shopping and searching for the correct parts/fittings

also i have a few questions that i am unsure of
1. do i need a power steering cooler?
2. do i need a proportioning valve for my disk/drum setup?
3. do i need a H block?


96 explorer 5.0, explorer front dress, explorer power steering pump.
EB 6 turn power steering box.
ax15
dana 20
dana 44, chevy diskbrake conversion
small bearing 9" rear, drum brakes`
33x12.50x15

what i have so far for my HB setup

- 2000 SD hydro boost complete with hoses
- firewall plate made of 3/16" aluminum
- Diplomat master cylinder
- 1/2" spacer for correct push rod length and orientation to booster
above taken from http://www.emotoman.com/4x4/hydroboost/hydroboost.html


all info, suggestions and recommendations are welcomed.

thank you in advance!

I'm running almost that exact same setup. I followed motoman's write up as well when putting mine together. To answer your questions:

1. Yes, believe it's recommended.
2. Yes, I'd go with a quality adjustable one to be able to dial in your setup once you're all done, I used the Wilwood unit (260-11179)
3. No, the prop valve will replace the stock H block.

As far as the firewall bracket, I'd go with steel over aluminum, there's a lot of weight hanging off of there with the hboost unit, master cylinder, etc. I ended up designing my own and having it made from 3/16 plate.

Fittings on the SD hboost unit are 16mm x 1.5 and 18mm x 1.5 to -6 AN in whichever brand you prefer, Earl's, etc. IIRC, that same steering box in mine has 5/8-18 and 11/16-18 (to -6 AN). For the lines, I'd go to your local hydraulic/ industrial supply house and have them make them up for you out of high pressure hydraulic hose with industrial style crimped on ends (JIC, same as -6 AN). I took my rough measurements and what hose ends I wanted (90* or 45*), had them crimp on one end and cut a little long, took them home to clock them exactly how I wanted and then brought them back in to be crimped.

It's well worth all the effort being able to lock 'em up with just your toe on the pedal, good luck!
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,377
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Slightly different recommendations...

Yes PS cooler is recommended, as stated above.

Yes manual Port valve is recommended for adjusting the correct bias. I have used the Summit valve, SUM-G3905 BRK proportioning valve, which looks just like the Wilwood valve

H-block does not have anything to do with brake bias, merely gives you a way to operate a check brake system light. You can delete it, but you lose that feature. Also it can be another point of failure with multiple connections. I have always left the H-block in place as most of the pre-bent aftermarket replacement brake lines are set up for it.

You will need a "Lee" fitting to convert the pressure side of the Explorer pump to 6 an. (Wh's sells, but I couldn't find it online)

We have a Hydraulic shop in town, so I buy the fittings and bulk hose, mark, cut, and line everything up, and take it back to them to crimp the fittings on.

Sorry, I can't comment on the SD HB as I have not gone that route...
 

Spaggyroe

Full Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
284
Another way to skin this cat... I used the field serviceable / reusable type of hydraulic hose ends. This allowed me to cut each hose to length and install the ends in my garage. These fittings do cost more, but the closest hydraulic hose shop is a bit of a drive for me, so they were a convenient way to go in my case.
 

svobronco

Full Member
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
295
I got most of my fittings from DiscountHydraulicHose.com. I used 90deg o-ring fittings (9069-06-16 + 9069-06-18) and bought pre-made 3/8 hose assy's from maza4141 on Ebay. Can't beat the prices from either of those suppliers.
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
I'm running almost that exact same setup. I followed motoman's write up as well when putting mine together. To answer your questions:

1. Yes, believe it's recommended.
2. Yes, I'd go with a quality adjustable one to be able to dial in your setup once you're all done, I used the Wilwood unit (260-11179)
3. No, the prop valve will replace the stock H block.

As far as the firewall bracket, I'd go with steel over aluminum, there's a lot of weight hanging off of there with the hboost unit, master cylinder, etc. I ended up designing my own and having it made from 3/16 plate.

Fittings on the SD hboost unit are 16mm x 1.5 and 18mm x 1.5 to -6 AN in whichever brand you prefer, Earl's, etc. IIRC, that same steering box in mine has 5/8-18 and 11/16-18 (to -6 AN). For the lines, I'd go to your local hydraulic/ industrial supply house and have them make them up for you out of high pressure hydraulic hose with industrial style crimped on ends (JIC, same as -6 AN). I took my rough measurements and what hose ends I wanted (90* or 45*), had them crimp on one end and cut a little long, took them home to clock them exactly how I wanted and then brought them back in to be crimped.

It's well worth all the effort being able to lock 'em up with just your toe on the pedal, good luck!

this is great! exactly what i was looking for- thank you

we have local shops here as well so i plan to do the same and mock everything up and take it back for final crimping.

the fittings were my biggest concern so now that I've got that info i can get to work.

Also i was originally planning on getting the 3/16" plate for the fire wall in steel just had aluminum on my mind when i was typing everything out. def will make it more rigid.
cheers!
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
Slightly different recommendations...

Yes PS cooler is recommended, as stated above.

Yes manual Port valve is recommended for adjusting the correct bias. I have used the Summit valve, SUM-G3905 BRK proportioning valve, which looks just like the Wilwood valve

H-block does not have anything to do with brake bias, merely gives you a way to operate a check brake system light. You can delete it, but you lose that feature. Also it can be another point of failure with multiple connections. I have always left the H-block in place as most of the pre-bent aftermarket replacement brake lines are set up for it.

You will need a "Lee" fitting to convert the pressure side of the Explorer pump to 6 an. (Wh's sells, but I couldn't find it online)

We have a Hydraulic shop in town, so I buy the fittings and bulk hose, mark, cut, and line everything up, and take it back to them to crimp the fittings on.

Sorry, I can't comment on the SD HB as I have not gone that route...

As 904 mentioned, the fitting for the pressure line out of the explorer pump is this one:

https://leepowersteering.com/collec...-with-seat-ford-pumps-racks-pinions-16mm-to-6

I tried another name brand fitting with an o-ring and it leaked, and ended up having to buy this one instead and now it doesn't leak a drop.


thank you for letting me know about the lee fitting. Are they "leepowersteering" the only ones producing this fitting for the ford pumps?


also since you both have two different styles of prop valves is there any pros/cons to both these styles?
Wilwood 260-11179 Proportioning badandy is using
Wilwood 260-12627 or SUM-G3905 BRK (as you mentioned they look exactly the same) 904bronco is using

thanks
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
this is great! exactly what i was looking for- thank you

we have local shops here as well so i plan to do the same and mock everything up and take it back for final crimping.

the fittings were my biggest concern so now that I've got that info i can get to work.

Also i was originally planning on getting the 3/16" plate for the fire wall in steel just had aluminum on my mind when i was typing everything out. def will make it more rigid.
cheers!

I'm running almost that exact same setup. I followed motoman's write up as well when putting mine together. To answer your questions:

1. Yes, believe it's recommended.
2. Yes, I'd go with a quality adjustable one to be able to dial in your setup once you're all done, I used the Wilwood unit (260-11179)
3. No, the prop valve will replace the stock H block.

As far as the firewall bracket, I'd go with steel over aluminum, there's a lot of weight hanging off of there with the hboost unit, master cylinder, etc. I ended up designing my own and having it made from 3/16 plate.

Fittings on the SD hboost unit are 16mm x 1.5 and 18mm x 1.5 to -6 AN in whichever brand you prefer, Earl's, etc. IIRC, that same steering box in mine has 5/8-18 and 11/16-18 (to -6 AN). For the lines, I'd go to your local hydraulic/ industrial supply house and have them make them up for you out of high pressure hydraulic hose with industrial style crimped on ends (JIC, same as -6 AN). I took my rough measurements and what hose ends I wanted (90* or 45*), had them crimp on one end and cut a little long, took them home to clock them exactly how I wanted and then brought them back in to be crimped.

It's well worth all the effort being able to lock 'em up with just your toe on the pedal, good luck!

Slightly different recommendations...

Yes PS cooler is recommended, as stated above.

Yes manual Port valve is recommended for adjusting the correct bias. I have used the Summit valve, SUM-G3905 BRK proportioning valve, which looks just like the Wilwood valve

H-block does not have anything to do with brake bias, merely gives you a way to operate a check brake system light. You can delete it, but you lose that feature. Also it can be another point of failure with multiple connections. I have always left the H-block in place as most of the pre-bent aftermarket replacement brake lines are set up for it.

You will need a "Lee" fitting to convert the pressure side of the Explorer pump to 6 an. (Wh's sells, but I couldn't find it online)

We have a Hydraulic shop in town, so I buy the fittings and bulk hose, mark, cut, and line everything up, and take it back to them to crimp the fittings on.

Sorry, I can't comment on the SD HB as I have not gone that route...


i see the differences now between the two prop valves. think i will stick with more basic one just for the rears
thanks
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
this is great! exactly what i was looking for- thank you

we have local shops here as well so i plan to do the same and mock everything up and take it back for final crimping.

the fittings were my biggest concern so now that I've got that info i can get to work.

Also i was originally planning on getting the 3/16" plate for the fire wall in steel just had aluminum on my mind when i was typing everything out. def will make it more rigid.
cheers!

I'm running almost that exact same setup. I followed motoman's write up as well when putting mine together. To answer your questions:

1. Yes, believe it's recommended.
2. Yes, I'd go with a quality adjustable one to be able to dial in your setup once you're all done, I used the Wilwood unit (260-11179)
3. No, the prop valve will replace the stock H block.

As far as the firewall bracket, I'd go with steel over aluminum, there's a lot of weight hanging off of there with the hboost unit, master cylinder, etc. I ended up designing my own and having it made from 3/16 plate.

Fittings on the SD hboost unit are 16mm x 1.5 and 18mm x 1.5 to -6 AN in whichever brand you prefer, Earl's, etc. IIRC, that same steering box in mine has 5/8-18 and 11/16-18 (to -6 AN). For the lines, I'd go to your local hydraulic/ industrial supply house and have them make them up for you out of high pressure hydraulic hose with industrial style crimped on ends (JIC, same as -6 AN). I took my rough measurements and what hose ends I wanted (90* or 45*), had them crimp on one end and cut a little long, took them home to clock them exactly how I wanted and then brought them back in to be crimped.

It's well worth all the effort being able to lock 'em up with just your toe on the pedal, good luck!

Slightly different recommendations...

Yes PS cooler is recommended, as stated above.

Yes manual Port valve is recommended for adjusting the correct bias. I have used the Summit valve, SUM-G3905 BRK proportioning valve, which looks just like the Wilwood valve

H-block does not have anything to do with brake bias, merely gives you a way to operate a check brake system light. You can delete it, but you lose that feature. Also it can be another point of failure with multiple connections. I have always left the H-block in place as most of the pre-bent aftermarket replacement brake lines are set up for it.

You will need a "Lee" fitting to convert the pressure side of the Explorer pump to 6 an. (Wh's sells, but I couldn't find it online)

We have a Hydraulic shop in town, so I buy the fittings and bulk hose, mark, cut, and line everything up, and take it back to them to crimp the fittings on.

Sorry, I can't comment on the SD HB as I have not gone that route...


i see the differences now between the two prop valves. think i will stick with more basic one just for the rears
thanks
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
6,681
What dia bors is rhe m/c from the hydroboost and what year?

Thanks!!
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
9,072
thank you for letting me know about the lee fitting. Are they "leepowersteering" the only ones producing this fitting for the ford pumps?

No, Power Steering Solutions makes one and someone (I'm not sure who) makes the one that WH sells. I think Lee's is the best, though.

Todd Z.
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
What dia bors is rhe m/c from the hydroboost and what year?

Thanks!!

this si the part number for the diplomat MC CARDONE 131822 i just went with this combo based off of various threads I've read and gathered ideas from
JP
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
No, Power Steering Solutions makes one and someone (I'm not sure who) makes the one that WH sells. I think Lee's is the best, though.

Todd Z.

seems to be that way
cheers
 

Spaggyroe

Full Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
284
Looks like the diplomat master cylinder (Cardone 13-1860) has a bore size of 1-1/8"

link to Cardone master cylinder identification guide if anyone else is curious.
http://www.pbwdist.com/catalogs/Cardon_MasterCylinders_IDGuide_2013.pdf

I went with a wilwood 1-1/8" bore tandem master cylinder and am happy with it. Note that you have to make a very short spacer (aka bullet, aka slug, whatever you want to call it) to go in the wilwood master in order to bolt it directly to the superduty hydraboost.

The OEM superduty master cylinder is a brute. It's huge in size. Something like 1-3/8", maybe even 1-1/2".
 
Last edited:

badandy73

Contributor
Broncoholic
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
88
FWIW, running the Cardone 13-1860 (NAPA M2411) with my setup, 1-1/8" bore. Works great with chevy front disc and stock small drums in the rear with the wilwood adj. prop valve. It's aluminum as opposed to cast iron, and unpainted it still looks great.
 
OP
OP
papy

papy

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Messages
707
this si the part number for the diplomat MC CARDONE 131822 i just went with this combo based off of various threads I've read and gathered ideas from
JP

FWIW, running the Cardone 13-1860 (NAPA M2411) with my setup, 1-1/8" bore. Works great with chevy front disc and stock small drums in the rear with the wilwood adj. prop valve. It's aluminum as opposed to cast iron, and unpainted it still looks great.

sorry i just noticed i had the posted the wrong part number for the Diplomat MC. the correct part number is the one badandy posted - cardone 13-1860

cheers
 

66ranger

Contributor
Newbie
Joined
Aug 20, 2020
Messages
12
I’ve read this thread and am curious as to why everyone is using the diplomat master cylinder instead of just using the one off the super duty. 66 ranger
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
6,681
I'm guessing its because it fits under the hood??

Not being a smart alec here... so many truck ones are too tall.
 

toddz69

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
9,072
I’ve read this thread and am curious as to why everyone is using the diplomat master cylinder instead of just using the one off the super duty. 66 ranger

The Super Duty master cylinder is enormous and probably has clearance issues with the hood (some have been successful, I believe). It also has a giant bore size which doesn't mesh well with the brakes we use on our Broncos.

Todd Z.
 
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