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Trac bar frame mount differences

widowmaker77

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Oct 11, 2007
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405
Hey guys I know that there is a bolt size difference between 76/77 and the older bronco trac bar mounts, but is there a difference in the the actual bracket itself? Reason I’m asking is I’m putting a 77 Dana 44 under my 66 and I have the trac bar for the 77 only. So I’m wondering if I drilled the hole out in the frame mount, will I be able to run the 77 trac bar in the 66 bracket? My thoughts are they are different as well but I would like some input from others. Thanks!
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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48,265
The brackets are much larger physically for the '76 and '77 Bronco frames.
I don't think this precludes you drilling the hole larger and using the '77 bar, but hopefully someone has done it and can confirm.
The aftermarket trackbars like ours have a standard round head and fit all years. Instead of an oval bushing we just use a different size inner sleeve for the different bolt. So as far as fitting an early bar on a later Bronco, that should not be an issue. But as far as putting a later bar on the earlier Bronco, I'd only be guessing that it does not have any fitment issues.

Paul
 
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widowmaker77

widowmaker77

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Oct 11, 2007
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The brackets are much larger physically for the '76 and '77 Bronco frames.
I don't think this precludes you drilling the hole larger and using the '77 bar, but hopefully someone has done it and can confirm.
The aftermarket trackbars like ours have a standard round head and fit all years. Instead of an oval bushing we just use a different size inner sleeve for the different bolt. So as far as fitting an early bar on a later Bronco, that should not be an issue. But as far as putting a later bar on the earlier Bronco, I'd only be guessing that it does not have any fitment issues.

Paul

Thank you! I’m wanting to get a adjustable trac bar eventually but it’s not in the cards right now with everything else I’ve got to do. I’m hoping this 77 bar will work for the time being. Hopefully someone else that’s tried to do this before will comment
 

tabyers

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Jun 15, 2014
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I Have a 69 with 77 axle, turns out that the 77 track bar works the best of all the ones I've tried so far. It fits in my bracket fine, other than the bolt, of course. I have a 2.5" lift
 
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widowmaker77

widowmaker77

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I Have a 69 with 77 axle, turns out that the 77 track bar works the best of all the ones I've tried so far. It fits in my bracket fine, other than the bolt, of course. I have a 2.5" lift

Thanks man! I appreciate it! That’s the info I was hoping for
 

Kbpony

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Jan 31, 2012
Messages
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The stock 76/77 bracket hangs a couple inches lower than the early ones. I’d think a drop bracket might help? The adjustable bar will probably be your best long term solution.
 
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widowmaker77

widowmaker77

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The stock 76/77 bracket hangs a couple inches lower than the early ones. I’d think a drop bracket might help? The adjustable bar will probably be your best long term solution.

Ok thanks! I’ll see what it does once I get it installed. I’m running a old k bar s 3.5 lift so I might have to do a drop bracket. If so I’ll fab it myself and fix it where I can brace it good so it doesn’t cause issues with original bracket welds from the factory.
 

DirtDonk

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Yes, with a lift of 2.5 or more you really do need to correct the angles. Whether a drop bracket or a riser, the steep angles after a lift make the steering and handling wonky and vague.
Whatever you do however, do it with the draglink too. So if you drop the trackbar bracket, use a dropped pitman arm with it. In fact, since you're going to do a custom bracket, get the pitman arm first and match your new fabricated bracket to it so that the draglink and trackbar remain parallel.

If you have, or prefer to use a riser instead, you get better geometry matching when you convert the tie-rod to mount above the knuckles (TRO, or "tie-rod over") to keep things parallel. Here again, you match the riser to the change in tie rod height.

Was the lift already on the '66 and it was driving just fine? If so you may already have all those drops and stuff installed. Pretty easy to tell visually of course, if you're familiar with them. If you're not, shoot a couple of pics for use to see and we can tell you what you have.

Paul
 
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widowmaker77

widowmaker77

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Yes, with a lift of 2.5 or more you really do need to correct the angles. Whether a drop bracket or a riser, the steep angles after a lift make the steering and handling wonky and vague.
Whatever you do however, do it with the draglink too. So if you drop the trackbar bracket, use a dropped pitman arm with it. In fact, since you're going to do a custom bracket, get the pitman arm first and match your new fabricated bracket to it so that the draglink and trackbar remain parallel.

If you have, or prefer to use a riser instead, you get better geometry matching when you convert the tie-rod to mount above the knuckles (TRO, or "tie-rod over") to keep things parallel. Here again, you match the riser to the change in tie rod height.

Was the lift already on the '66 and it was driving just fine? If so you may already have all those drops and stuff installed. Pretty easy to tell visually of course, if you're familiar with them. If you're not, shoot a couple of pics for use to see and we can tell you what you have.

Paul
Thanks Paul! I’ve also considered the axle riser. What I’m basically doing here is this. I’m using all the running gear out of my 77 in the 66. My 77 needs a full frame off total restore and the 66 is in good shape considering it sat outside in covered for 27 years. Replacing front floor pans and two spots in the rear floor. Other than that it’s a solid bud body. Reason Im using all my 77 running gear is because I had striped the 66 down years ago and someone “helped” them selves to everything but the front axle. So I’m using the 77 power steering box inverted y tie rod and draglink and trac bar. I’m also using the k bar s lift I had on the 77. I didn’t have either a riser or a drop bracket on my 77 but I would like to run one or the other on this 66 to see if it will drive any better than the 77 did.
 

DirtDonk

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So I’m using the 77 power steering box inverted y tie rod and draglink and trac bar.

Ok so that's a whole different ball of wax!
Since you're keeping with the Y-linkage it's a good thing you're planning to fab up your own trackbar drop bracket.
You'll use a dropped pitman arm for a '76/'77 Bronco, but then you'll have to size your bracket to drop the trackbar to just the right height to keep it parallel to the long tie-rod/draglink.
Since you have a '77 already, just match up what it had and you'll be fine.
If it's already apart and you didn't document it, check out some of the other member's '76's and '77's to get just the right angle on the two bars.

Remember too, the taller the lift and the bigger the tires and the wider the wheels (or those with less backspacing) the more pressure is put on the long side rod and when used hard this is what bends first.
If you're just going to be on the street and only using moderate sized wheels and tires, you might be fine. But if going off-road and playing hard with larger tires, your steering linkage is the weak link.

I’m also using the k bar s lift I had on the 77. I didn’t have either a riser or a drop bracket on my 77 but I would like to run one or the other on this 66 to see if it will drive any better than the 77 did.

It would have to I would hope. The closer you keep things to the way that the factory had them, the better off you are usually.
But again, since you're basically creating your own Franken-Bronco here, you are going to have to think way ahead of yourself and figure out what is important and what will work together best.

Paul
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,211
My '77 is legally a '68. So I had to make the '68 frame match the '77 frame in every way except the VIN number. When both track bar brackets were side by side it was obvious that the '68 could not be made into a '76-'77 bracket. The hole is further below the frame and more outboard on the '76-'77. Cutting the '77 bracket off the frame was so difficult they had to cut the frame on both sides of the bracket. The '68 was a lot easier to remove. The bracket isn't the only unique part. The track bar is a different length.The pitman arm is different.
 
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widowmaker77

widowmaker77

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Oct 11, 2007
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Thanks guys. I think I’ll put it all together and see how my trac bar and tie rod look together and go from there. Whether it needs a riser or drop bracket. Long as trac bar and 66 bracket will work, that’s the main thing
 
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