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What have you done to your Bronco today?

Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
594
Loc.
Maple Valley
found a leak in the heater core so i decided to bypass it for now
 

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Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
594
Loc.
Maple Valley
Ran like that for awhile ‘cause I really dislike pulling the box. Those valve covers are sweet.

thanks! I want to remove the heater box/core, but its still not really clear to me how to disconnect from the switches or if there's other bolts holding this thing in. I know of the 4 nuts that you access from the engine bay, but are there others?
 

billh1289

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
471
Loc.
Jackson, NJ
thanks! I want to remove the heater box/core, but its still not really clear to me how to disconnect from the switches or if there's other bolts holding this thing in. I know of the 4 nuts that you access from the engine bay, but are there others?
In addition to those 4 nuts, you disconnect the bellows connected to the kick panel, the 2 defrost tubes, the dash controls and electrical connections. Pretty sure that’s it. Fairly easy to get out, helps to have a second set of hands putting it back in.
 

Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
594
Loc.
Maple Valley
In addition to those 4 nuts, you disconnect the bellows connected to the kick panel, the 2 defrost tubes, the dash controls and electrical connections. Pretty sure that’s it. Fairly easy to get out, helps to have a second set of hands putting it back in.
got it! came out super quick!
 

DonaldDouchebag

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 17, 2008
Messages
1,095
Finished a fabricated 2-into-1 exhaust today. I ordered s generic tubing bends kit, a big Walker muffler with two inlets, and a 3” universal tailpipe kit from Flowmaster, took two weekends to get it all welded and tucked up nicely. It attaches to some Hedman long tube headers.

Had to do a 1” body lift to get some more room under there. Oh, and I finally got my new Bailie Bilt cage in today with help from my brother, Still need to bolt it down. And I installed a handbrake out of a Suzuki Samurau but my e-brake cables are too short. Had to order some.

List to do: relocated rear bump stops, extended shock mounts and longer shocks, hydro boost, 1-ton Chevy tie rod, raised track bar mount, and Gearbanger shifter.
 

Lt1Burb

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
138
I put the body back on frame and fitted up doors,fenders,tailgate and hood for final bodywork.
 

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BroncoBub

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2018
Messages
708
Yes, it will be boxwood green, white grille , dash and roll bar, hopefully be clean looking, I don't like gas caps sticking out so put the 77 gas door in. View attachment 884227
Could you take a picture or pictures from the back of the bronco looking forward along the body lines. I'm at your stage with my bronco and trying to align the doors but, they seem to not flush down the body lines. If you understand my question?
Thanks A bunch!
 

Lt1Burb

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
138
Could you take a picture or pictures from the back of the bronco looking forward along the body lines. I'm at your stage with my bronco and trying to align the doors but, they seem to not flush down the body lines. If you understand my question?
Thanks A bunch!
I used repop doors as mine were junk, actually very impressed with quality. I am on vacay so this all I have but will get some more when I’m home. B0BE0BD1-B7B2-4E2D-88A8-8F4430BB3412.jpeg B3FC55BC-120F-4739-B391-2593B026C8F5.jpeg
 

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
Jul 31, 2001
Messages
8,604
I have a build thread going but thought I'd post up what's taking me so long... lol

Getting closer. Making most of the brackets slows things down but the proper geometry is extremely critical and I think I'm spot on. Probably waaay too detailed but it's what I've been working with for the past week. Pics below.

The rear lower link in the pic obviously has to slide back a couple inches to fit on/under the axle since my 4x6 holding the axle up is in the way. The front bushing on the upper is obviously just being braced in place for placement and the correct angle. I will shorten it appr 1 1/2".

I will drill a new hole in that lower rear link bracket (and cut the lower 3" off) to make the center to center height difference appr. 7 1/4 to 7 1/2" apart


The frt upper link mount would be shortened appr 1 1/2" and will be sitting on top of the new frame. (which is appr 3" lower than the OE frame at that location)

The lower link as you can see in the birds eye pic is just outside the frame rail allowing for a couple inches of articulation w/o the lwr brkt hitting anything.

The current frame height and axle height front and rear is exact ride height plus 6". So, center of wheels are 17 1/4" less 6" (easier to work on) and then 11 1/4" for the tire/wheel radius.

Frame in the middle where the splice is sits 12" off the ground in the pic which means it should sit at 6" off the ground.
 

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Hinmaton

Full Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
590
Been puttering about working on incidentals.
Onboard Air, quick access fire extinguisher, and I set up an antenna for my haam radio. At some point I’ll probably get myself a mobile radio kit, just not sure whether I want to go gmrs or dual band.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Howard2x4x4

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
2,278
Been puttering about working on incidentals.
Onboard Air, quick access fire extinguisher, and I set up an antenna for my haam radio. At some point I’ll probably get myself a mobile radio kit, just not sure whether I want to go gmrs or dual band.
ea1f923f5f57bf348b2f0ab14d69154d.jpg

a7e08ad74ac8de444d733aafd8acd93a.jpg

8e8377bb9b6a5d132b9c01a97b28f336.jpg

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Studly, I'd say! Nice job with the star!
 

Howard2x4x4

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
2,278
Well, I think you also found that you can't pull a hard top with a fork lift against sheet metal and not break something.
The top cannot come straight up with the angle braces. Especially with the factory electric wiper motor attached.
Even with the motor loosened it can't easily come straight up, so you can tilt the top around the wiper motor and pull upward at just the right angle and not have the trouble you just experienced.

The good news is that this corner piece is not that hard to hammer back down to flat enough that nobody but you will ever know. Add a bit of re-sealing the seam and it'll work just fine when the top goes back on.
Is the top going back on at some point? If not you should still be able to fix that.

Or in other words... "That'll buff right out!" ;)

Paul
Yeah, Paul, no doubt about it. Haste makes waste. Not enough time to do it right, but plenty of time to do it over. That specific top will not be going back on, but another one in slightly better shape will be once I make a few minor adjustments. I will probably just remove the pocket stakes. Also have a brand new soft top, so I'll have some choice.
 
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