Winters Sidewinder Shifter and 4R70W

[meanjean73]

I have everything installed and the shifter/gears aren't lining up. By that, when the shifter is in neutral I am actually in drive. When I put the shifter into 2nd gear, the transmission is actually in 1st gear. The transmission goes into reverse before the shifter actually gets to reverse? I can't get the shifter to physically go into first gear.

See what I am getting at, everything is off?

I am verifying the actual gear by the read out of the Quickshift 4 controller and comparing it to the shifters physical location in the gates.

So, are there adjustments somewhere on the shifter? The instructions aren't very specific about fine tuning.

Also, For those who have this setup, any pictures of your cable mounting bracket on the transmission would be great. I had to modify the Winters bracket to get clearance on the transfer case and front driveshaft. Maybe my bracket modifications threw everything out of alignment?

Thanks

 

[doran4x]

Order the shift plate for the aod. It’s slightly different from the C4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[meanjean73]

I did. It was ordered and installed when I purchased the install kit. The plate I installed was P/N 3286 for the AODE. I didn't find one for he 4R70W in the Winters catalog. My understanding is the shift pattern is the same for the AODE and the 4R70W?

Are you saying I need the AOD or the AODE?

 

[meanjean73]

I just looked again, the AOD and the AODE use the same gate plate.

Answered my own question.

 

[JSmall]

The bracket was hanging down so I cut it and welded it pointing up. You can see the bracket at the top of this pic.

 

[meanjean73]

JSmall, that is exactly how I bent my bracket up. You don't have any issues with the shifter/gears lining up?

To adjust the shifter did you adjust the cable on the shifter end or the transmission end? I tried just the transmission end of the cable, I haven't don't anything inside the shifter.

 

[JSmall]

JSmall, that is exactly how I bent my bracket up. You don't have any issues with the shifter/gears lining up?

To adjust the shifter did you adjust the cable on the shifter end or the transmission end? I tried just the transmission end of the cable, I haven't don't anything inside the shifter.

I am using the Lokar shifter bracket, so I was able to adjust the ratio to get it to align correctly. I had to move the cable up and down in the slot to find the perfect ratio. Before I installed the pan, I verified all shift gates matched up with the detents in the shifter arm. It was a long process of trial and error, but eventually, it all came together.

 

[JSmall]

You can see the slot in this picture.

 

[EricLar80]

When I did mine, I found that you need to have the shift lever on the transmission pointing straight up and down when in neutral for it all to work together. If it is tilted one way or the other, it's not set up correctly. So, adjust the position of the cable until that is the case and you should be good. I ended up making a custom shift lever to get it right.

 

[meanjean73]

When I did mine, I found that you need to have the shift lever on the transmission pointing straight up and down when in neutral for it all to work together. If it is tilted one way or the other, it's not set up correctly. So, adjust the position of the cable until that is the case and you should be good. I ended up making a custom shift lever to get it right.

Trying to comprehend what you're saying? Put the shifter in N and the transmission shift lever in N then adjust the cable to fit?

Any pictures of your custom shift lever?

 

[meanjean73]

Originally the cable clam bracket was pointing down, I bent it up for driveline clearance. When I called Winters, the tech support thought that would throw off the travel distance making the shifter detents not line up on the shifter? I didnt think raising up about 1.5 inches would make the throw distance change? They cable support and shifter are still the same distance apart.

 

[meanjean73]

Would using a different hole in the bottom change the travel distance?

 

[meanjean73]

Anyone?

Feedback on adjustments would be great.

 

[EricLar80]

Sorry, I forgot to reply after I read your question.

Correct, you need to adjust the linkage when they are both (the shifter and the trans) in neutral. The custom lever that I made had the center points 2.10 inches apart. Note that I have a B&M shifter, but I think this would be the same for the winters shifter.

I also found that the shift lever on the trans had to be vertical when in neutral. If leaned forward or back (from vertical in neutral) then the detents in the shifter did not match the locations of the detents in the transmission. Easiest was I can say it is that the trans shift lever moves on an arc, so the x distance traveled is not consistent for each position.

Here is a link to a previous post where I showed my lever. I can get a better one if you need it.
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1739871&postcount=5

 

[EricLar80]

You can see the slot in this picture.

So, for mine and I used this, the I would have attached it in the slot 2.10 inches from the pivot point.

The way I figured it out was partially by trial and error, but mostly by marking the cable existing the shifter for each gear, and comparing that to the travel of each detent position of the trans.

 

[EricLar80]

Would using a different hole in the bottom change the travel distance?

I think this could be your issue; start here. I think the cable should mount in the center position in your situation (i.e. - always the position between the two mounting screws for the bracket). Just a guess based on the geometry of how it works. It does make a big difference on travel distance.

edit: just checked, the winters manual shows this as well.

 

[BanditBronco]

I would suggest dropping the pan so you can see exactly what is happening internally. Without doing that I would not have gotten mine to shift reliably. Are you running the winters shift lever? I played with both cable mounting and lever height until I got mine to do what it needed to.

Unless you are a mathematician and can figure out the throw of each gear and how that interacts with the fulcrum of the shift lever, the old fashion way seems to work best for most of us.

 

[JSmall]

So, for mine and I used this, the I would have attached it in the slot 2.10 inches from the pivot point.

The way I figured it out was partially by trial and error, but mostly by marking the cable existing the shifter for each gear, and comparing that to the travel of each detent position of the trans.

Mine was trial and error for sure. I had the pan off so I was able to see how I was doing as I was moving the cable up and down in the slot. It took me three tries to get it aligned perfectly in all gears.

 

[EricLar80]

I didn't have to remove the pan, but I did go from inside the cab (shifting the lever back and forth) to down underneath (to see how the cable lined up) more times than I would like to admit.

MeanJean73 - try moving the connecting point at the shifter and report back.

 

[meanjean73]

I didn't have to remove the pan, but I did go from inside the cab (shifting the lever back and forth) to down underneath (to see how the cable lined up) more times than I would like to admit.

MeanJean73 - try moving the connecting point at the shifter and report back.

Are you talking about the various holes in the bottom of the shifter or on the transmission shifter arm?

My other thought was to drill another hole in the shifter arm of the transmission to move the ball stud closer to the pivot point. Or do I need to make the shifter arm longer to move the ball stud farther away from the pivot point, matching the throw distance of the shifter for each gear?