wrap trap Vs torque tamer?

[oregon bronco]

Ok so I Am looking at building a traction bar for my rear axle. I am looking at two designs mentioned above but was wanting to get an opinion from the guys that have them. To me it looks like the Duff bar is a better solution to axle wrap because it attaches at the top and bottom of the 9". Just looking for some info.

 

[stupidboy]

I have one of these that I'm not going to use if you would be interested.

 

[JohnT]

Hey Stupid Boy send some dimesion of the torque tamer , I like your set-up did you make it yourself?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Torque tamer. Controls the torque without requiring the leaf springs to be part of the system. springs are the springs, the arm controls the torque. I did a similer one but used a left over front radius arm for my final design.

 

[stupidboy]

Hey Stupid Boy send some dimesion of the torque tamer , I like your set-up did you make it yourself?

No I did not build it I bought it a couple months ago from someone on here, It was built by a guy that has been banned from this site, (saddleup). I am not going to use it and would just like to get rid of it. Thare are other guys using it I believe.

 

[Nightstick]

Bowsher, are you talking about the wrap trap as part of the leafs?

I have a wrap trap (not installed yet) and its one solid built piece of gear. I haven't seen the Duff one, as IMO they're website is extremely hard to navigate. The wrap trap has a crossmember, if you wanna call it that, that runs the width of the frame, and a bracket welded to the top of the rear end. I'm guessing either one will work fine.

I can post a pic of the parts as they come from WH if you want.

 

[Amac70]

Bowsher, are you talking about the wrap trap as part of the leafs?

I have a wrap trap (not installed yet) and its one solid built piece of gear. I haven't seen the Duff one, as IMO they're website is extremely hard to navigate. The wrap trap has a crossmember, if you wanna call it that, that runs the width of the frame, and a bracket welded to the top of the rear end. I'm guessing either one will work fine.

I can post a pic of the parts as they come from WH if you want.

he is, the wrap trap is still relying on the leaf springs to control the torque. where as the other system does not.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Bowsher, are you talking about the wrap trap as part of the leafs?

I have a wrap trap (not installed yet) and its one solid built piece of gear. I haven't seen the Duff one, as IMO they're website is extremely hard to navigate. The wrap trap has a crossmember, if you wanna call it that, that runs the width of the frame, and a bracket welded to the top of the rear end. I'm guessing either one will work fine.

I can post a pic of the parts as they come from WH if you want.

The wrap trap, the link that attaches to the top of the 9" housing and the other end attaches to a crossmember, yes that one. You have to understand how the axle torques up. The housing is trying to twist. You are trying to control rotation. If you removed the leaf springs and did just the wrap trap, it would pivot at the top pivot point and be useless. But if you used an arm as shown several different ways above the rotation force would turn into a force that lifts the chassis/pushes down on the axle. For the wrap trap to work the leaf springs need to take a forward pushing force while that added link takes a pulling force. It is a crude version of a 4-link suspension but both top links are combined into a common link. And the bottm links are leaf springs. Throw in all the different versions of leaf springs and the bottm link is now suddenly a wild card. if there is too much arch in the front of the springs the compressive forces will try and compress that curved piece of metal called a leaf spring. Lots of strange things can happen. Then if it is a thick spring pack and/or blocks involved the leverage will multiply signifently. The wrap trap can work, but you MUST pay attention and understand how it works for it to be installed correctly. There are too many different suspension variables for this to work across the board. While a simple arm will work with just about anything that isn't 4-linked

 

[Nightstick]

The wrap trap, the link that attaches to the top of the 9" housing and the other end attaches to a crossmember, yes that one. You have to understand how the axle torques up. The housing is trying to twist. You are trying to control rotation. If you removed the leaf springs and did just the wrap trap, it would pivot at the top pivot point and be useless. But if you used an arm as shown several different ways above the rotation force would turn into a force that lifts the chassis/pushes down on the axle. For the wrap trap to work the leaf springs need to take a forward pushing force while that added link takes a pulling force. It is a crude version of a 4-link suspension but both top links are combined into a common link. And the bottm links are leaf springs. Throw in all the different versions of leaf springs and the bottm link is now suddenly a wild card. if there is too much arch in the front of the springs the compressive forces will try and compress that curved piece of metal called a leaf spring. Lots of strange things can happen. Then if it is a thick spring pack and/or blocks involved the leverage will multiply signifently. The wrap trap can work, but you MUST pay attention and understand how it works for it to be installed correctly. There are too many different suspension variables for this to work across the board. While a simple arm will work with just about anything that isn't 4-linked

I really don't have an understanding of how all that works, but after I re-read that a few times, I'll understand more. The rig it's going on isn't a trail rig, and will have the WH 11 leaf packs on it. ?:?

 

[Nightstick]

Here's a link I found that talks about axle wrap.

Conclusion... now I understand

 

[VT_Don]

I had used over ride traction bars which are less then worthless. Going with the new, National springs was a huge help. May add CalTracs before finishing rebuild.
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.php

 

[oregon bronco]

What are you looking to get for that setup stupidboy? Nightstick thanks for the info I am now convinced that the torque tamer style is the way to go.

 

[KennyB]

... ok, back in 1983, when I was blowin U Joints every 6 months, I bought K-bar-S Traction Bars. then, I snapped one of there 1/4" Spring Perch Mounts, so, they sent me 3/8" mounts. Then, I snapped the spring perch off at the bolt holes. so, I bought Lakewood traction bars... yeah, $30 traction bars, Never blew another U Joint, and they worked like a Sway Bar on the street, and 4 Wheeled Fine.
http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/ProductDetails.aspx?modelNumber=22026&productID=1976&majID=156&minID=1568&selection=2&minselection=7