Wristed/ Extended Arm Steering (Long Travel?????)

[68 Broncoholic]

Yeah, all Chevy stuff. Get another pitman arm and ream it out for the large chevy knuckle. I still run the stock EB TRE's until I get some DOM. Here's a photo of the size, its huge!

 

[tonto]

You've all ready drilled out your knckles for the bolts for the rod ends, what are you plans for reducing that hole to make a taper for the chevy T.R.E.

If your going to go tie rod over you will need to re-taper the hole that the drag link mounts to in this picture, it comes with the taper from the other side for stock application.

How far up or close to the frame can you move the axle before in max's out the rod ends on the drag link?

Have you cycled the front end to figure out how much more down travel your drive shaft can take?

 

[SaddleUp]

You've all ready drilled out your knckles for the bolts for the rod ends, what are you plans for reducing that hole to make a taper for the chevy T.R.E.

If your going to go tie rod over you will need to re-taper the hole that the drag link mounts to in this picture, it comes with the taper from the other side for stock application.

How far up or close to the frame can you move the axle before in max's out the rod ends on the drag link?

Have you cycled the front end to figure out how much more down travel your drive shaft can take?

There are a few options for re-tapering holes. What I've been doing for years though when I needed to fill them is to use braizing rod. It requires getting the area where it needs to be filled cherry red and then filling it up with the braizing rod. Then redrilled and tapered.

 

[Kirby N.]

Saddleup: I think I would be a little hesistant to fill the holes with brass and retaper them. If it wasn't steering I would consider it, but...

 

[Kirby N.]

You've all ready drilled out your knckles for the bolts for the rod ends, what are you plans for reducing that hole to make a taper for the chevy T.R.E.

If your going to go tie rod over you will need to re-taper the hole that the drag link mounts to in this picture, it comes with the taper from the other side for stock application.

How far up or close to the frame can you move the axle before in max's out the rod ends on the drag link?

Have you cycled the front end to figure out how much more down travel your drive shaft can take?

If I use the Chevy Tie Rod end for the passenger side Tie Rod will the hole work or will it need to be retapered? Does the TRO kit just come with the ream bit or what? Can I buy the taper tool from Napa? Is there a certain size of taper?

Anybody know where to get the bit that reams the holes?

How far up or close to the frame can you move the axle before in max's out the rod ends on the drag link?

Have you cycled the front end to figure out how much more down travel your drive shaft can take?

I am running a set of bump stops mounted behind the stock shock location on the Radius arm. I have cycled the suspension nd I designed the bump stops with the Hiems in mind. I am told that it is really hard on hiems to over cycle them beyond the misalignment allowance, so the bump stops limit them right now.

My drive shaft can take as much down travel as I can throw at it! The way It worked out, the driveshaft is very near the same length and mounted in the same orientation as the Radius arms, so it doesn't really move on the splines at all through suspension cycle (I didn't plan it that way, but it worked out nicely that way).

Thank you for this valuable information!!!

 

[Broncoholics]

If I use the Chevy Tie Rod end for the passenger side Tie Rod will the hole work or will it need to be retapered? Does the TRO kit just come with the ream bit or what? Can I buy the taper tool from Napa? Is there a certain size of taper?

Anybody know where to get the bit that reams the holes?

I am running a set of bump stops mounted behind the stock shock location on the Radius arm. I have cycled the suspension nd I designed the bump stops with the Hiems in mind. I am told that it is really hard on hiems to over cycle them beyond the misalignment allowance, so the bump stops limit them right now.

My drive shaft can take as much down travel as I can throw at it! The way It worked out, the driveshaft is very near the same length and mounted in the same orientation as the Radius arms, so it doesn't really move on the splines at all through suspension cycle (I didn't plan it that way, but it worked out nicely that way).

Thank you for this valuable information!!!

You can buy the reamer from Snap On or www.completeofforad.com

But beware. As soon as you get it all your buddies are going to be asking to borrow it to do theirs. ;D

 

[SaddleUp]

Saddleup: I think I would be a little hesistant to fill the holes with brass and retaper them. If it wasn't steering I would consider it, but...

As I mentioned above we have been doing this for years and have never had a problem with any of the rigs we did it on. Back when I worked in a custom 4WD shop it was the only option we had available in many cases. FWIW, one of the knuckles on mine now is done this way since I drilled too deep when I was reaming it for the tie rod. Since then I have pushed it to the extreme putting it through severe abuse on many occasions and the last time I removed it it still required popping it loose. I suppose that if I hadn't already seen it done many times before then I may be leary as well. In the event you do decide to do it that way there will be no question about it's ability to hold up after you get done drilling and reaming it. I'll take the cast any day over the braizing for drilling through.

 

[tonto]

My drive shaft can take as much down travel as I can throw at it! The way It worked out, the driveshaft is very near the same length and mounted in the same orientation as the Radius arms, so it doesn't really move on the splines at all through suspension cycle (I didn't plan it that way, but it worked out nicely that way).

Thank you for this valuable information!!!

I was thinking more along the lines of U-joint bind.

I've seen tie rod overs done using the brass filler rod many times with no problems, thats how my D-44 knuckles were done, never gave me any issues.

 

[welndmn]

Find Quinn Dun(can't spell his last name)
he is over on the Bfix site, but he had bushing with 3/4 OD and the Chevy taper on the ID you could weld into your kunckle.
Thats how I fixed over reaming or Heim steering.

 

[68 Broncoholic]

Kerby-
Your driveline won't move much in and out when articulating the suspension. Only when both tires go up and down equally at the same time. Jumping, going over bump etc.

If you want info on web for Quinns set up, do a search under Quinns Chevy tie rod over conversion and you will find the info you need.
Quinn and Roger were one of the first that I knew of that made the wristed arm. I'm sure they learned it from someone else but 10 year back I think it was they made thei first one. He made mine 8 year back, still runs great!

 

[Kirby N.]

I was thinking more along the lines of U-joint bind.

I've seen tie rod overs done using the brass filler rod many times with no problems, thats how my D-44 knuckles were done, never gave me any issues.

Ohh, I got you. It is a High Pinion out of a 76 F150 that I cut down to EB width and the Ujoints are sitting pretty, so no problems. I have cycled the supension with no drag link and no springs (both sides drooped) and the driveshaft isn't going to limit me for a long time.

I've never heard of the brass thing, but from what you guys have said it wounds like I would step up and do it, but crap, I have no torch ;D . I think I will see what I can do with the bushings mentioned, if I can't get ahold of some of those then I will see if I can bum a torch and some brazing rod off a friend.

 

[Kirby N.]

Kerby-
Your driveline won't move much in and out when articulating the suspension. Only when both tires go up and down equally at the same time. Jumping, going over bump etc.

If you want info on web for Quinns set up, do a search under Quinns Chevy tie rod over conversion and you will find the info you need.
Quinn and Roger were one of the first that I knew of that made the wristed arm. I'm sure they learned it from someone else but 10 year back I think it was they made thei first one. He made mine 8 year back, still runs great!

I searched the site for an hour or so about Quinn's setup and I didn't find any info, however, I checked BC broncos' cite and I am going to email Chuck about some bushings. I found some info on using f150 TREs- are those worth while?

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[SaddleUp]

I searched the site for an hour or so about Quinn's setup and I didn't find any info, however, I checked BC broncos' cite and I am going to email Chuck about some bushings. I found some info on using f150 TREs- are those worth while?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Here's a link to an article at BFix on the Chevy tie rod setup. A search over there will also turn up Quinn Dusenberry who is the one that supplied my tubing as well. The cost was about the same as it would have been to buy the taps to do it myself. Perhaps a little less. It was easier though than trying to round everything up myself. BTW, I also bought jam nuts from him for it since they are hard to locate.

http://broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=261595

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks! Now I just need some cash!

 

[68 Broncoholic]

Quinn's stuff isn't on this site. Do a standard google search.