Preparing the Remainder of the Parts:
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Now you’re ready to assemble the rest of the locker into the carrier.Grease the Cam Gear inner opening, pin slots and gear teeth. DO NOT put grease into the small pin holes. If you do the pins won’t be able to slide all the way in. |
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Install each pin into the slots with the step of the pin toward the base of the slot as shown. |
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Insert a Spacer into each Cam Gear. Orient the Spacer as shown so the open end is toward the Axle Gear that you left in the carrier from the previous step. |
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Insert one assembled Cam Gear with Spacer into the carrier on the ring gear side (passenger side). Mesh the teeth with the teeth of the Axle Gear. |
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Reach a finger in and push the Spacer away from the center (toward the Axle Gear). |
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Insert the 2nd assembled Cam Gear with Spacer into the carrier. The flat sides of the Cam Gear allow it to clear the carrier housing. If you try to install the Cam Gears starting on the non-ring gear side you won’t be able to fit the 2nd Cam Gear in because the carrier opening is smaller on the ring gear side. |
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Again, mesh the teeth against the Axle Gear. Rotate the Cam Gears until the pinion shaft holes line up and then push the Spacer away from the center. |
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Slide one of the pins across the center gap and into the hole in the opposite Cam Gear. |
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Insert one of the Springs in the slot where the pin used to be. It helps to use a screw driver to keep the 2 halfs apart. Use another screw driver or a pick to coax the spring in. |
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The Spring should slip over the stepped base of the pin and into the recess at the bottom of the pin slot. When the first one is done rotate the locker around to install each of the other 3 Pins and Springs. |
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Rotate the locker assembly so the pinion shaft hole lines up with the hole in the carrier. Tap the pinion shaft in. Be carefull no to damage the center Spacers. |
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When tapping in the pinion shaft be sure the shaft is installed completely so the hole for the roll pin lines up. But don’t install the pin until you completed the next step. |
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Measure the center gap. This is another critical step. The gap needs to be within range for the locker to work properly.Use a feeler guage to check the gap between the two halfs. It should be between .145″ and .170″. (You’ll need to stack several of the feelers together to get that measurement.) If you’re not within spec you’ll need to determine why not and fix it before you can proceed. If this gap isn’t within specs, but the first gap you measured was then double check that everything was installed properly and that no debris made their way into the assembly. |
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Install the ring gear on the case. Assuming you’re re-using your old gear and case, make sure to line up the marks that you made when you disassembled. Use some red Loctite on each bolt. You don’t want these coming loose. |
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Torque the ring gear bolts per your factory specs. (Should be 55 ft lbs) |
Reassembly:
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Now you’re ready to put the assembled carrier back into the differential housing. (I recommend installing new inner axle seals since you’re already in there.)Again, assuming you haven’t changed your ring & pinion gears you should be able to put everything back in they way it came out. Be sure you put the original side bearing races back on the side they came off. (DO NOT grease differential bearings. Only use gear oil.) While holding the races on from each side carefully lift the carrier into position in the housing. Depending on how tight your preload shims are it may take some effort to squeeze the carrier back in. Just be patient and don’t drop it. Once it’s started in you can use a plastic dead blow hammer to help it along. |
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Once the carrier is seated install the bearing caps. Remember that you marked them and that they need to go in the same way they came out. Torque the bolts down to 60 ft lbs.For now leave the differential cover off. Reinstall both axle shafts, backing plates, brakes, hubs, etc. Put both tires back on also, but don’t take the vehicle off the jack stands just yet.
Now it’s time to do the “spin test” per the Aussie Locker instructions. You need a friend/spouse/kid to help with this. I figured I could do it single handed and only needlessly worried myself because I failed the test. Once I convinced my wife to help out it worked perfectly.
Put the transmission in gear and the t-case in 4WD. With both tires on, turn one until it stops against the locked driveshaft. Have your helper keep pressue on it.
Rotate the other tire in the opposite direction. It should unlock and spin. The clicking you hear is normal for the test.
Have your helper turn their tire in the opposite direction until it locks. Turn yours again in the opposite direction. Again, it should unlock and spin/click.
Switch tires with your helper and repeat the same process on the other side.
If you passed you’re ready to go. Install the cover and fill the oil to the bottom of the drain plug hole. Double check all your connections, lug nuts, etc and then you’re ready to test it on the road! |
What if I have a Factory Limited Slip?
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The Aussie Locker is designed to be installed in an open differential. So what if your Bronco has a factory limited slip? It’s not a big deal, but you’ll need to gather some additional parts as shown in the photo:
- Open carrier
- Pinion shaft (cross shaft)
- 2 thrust washers
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These photos compare a factory limited slip carrier with an open carrier. |
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March 4th, 2009 at 7:39 pm
Does this locker make noise when it is “unlocking” when turning? Is it fairly noisy or quite?
August 29th, 2009 at 7:17 am
It sounds like you use the stock axles but I tried to find one of these Aussie lockers and they said they only come in 31 spline. Do you have a part#? Also I am planning on a new gear install with 3.56 gears. Do you have any tech info on this?
Thank you
Romulus Bronco
August 29th, 2009 at 12:08 pm
@ Romulus Bronco – It sounds like you’re asking about the rear end (Ford 9″). This install is on the front end (dana 44). You’re correct that Aussie only makes a locker for the Bronco rear end in 31 spline, which is not stock. But their locker for the Dana 44 front end is for the stock axles (ie. 30 spline inners)
I don’t have a tech article specifically dealing with gear changes, but this Aussie article and the Ox locker one should give some good pointers. Be sure to click to the 2nd page of each article. http://classicbroncos.com/tech/ox-locker-install
But those are both for the front end. If you’re talking about the rear end, no, there aren’t any tech articles on the site for gear swapping in a 9″. But it’s been discussed on the forums before and I’m sure if you post any additional questions you’ll get plenty of help.
August 29th, 2009 at 12:16 pm
@ spieser – I do notice some noise on turns if the conditions are right. But for the most part I don’t hear it unless I’m listening for it. I do notice it in the steering wheel though when engaged. See the 3rd paragraph near the top of this article.
August 29th, 2009 at 6:48 pm
Thank you Admin for the clarification. I am talking about the front end DANA 44 It was wrong thinking the DANA 44 was 28 spline your product and review article was awsome I can’t wait to do this project.
Thanks again,
Romulus Bronco
February 1st, 2010 at 9:48 am
[…] Rating Nice find. I used one off a Bronco forum for a regular 44. Was very in depth. Aussie Locker in a Dana 44 – Review & Install | ClassicBroncos.com Tech Articles__________________Daniel My WJ build thread facebook. << Wheeling pictures and videos. The […]
August 10th, 2011 at 7:37 pm
I have been a bronco fan for years and the level of detailed information on this site is amazing.. take for example this post where I quote: “Before you remove the carrier side bearing caps you need to mark them.” Seriously.. you need to charge a membership for the kinda detailed information your are providing for free… in any event thank you very much.. Ana