Steering ?

[DEEPWOODS]

Will it help to get a drop pitman arm and will I need to drop the track bar more also . It is not very stable above 40 MPH

 

[bronconut73]

Generically speaking, if you drop the pitman arm then you use the drop bracket. The idea is that you want them both pivoting in the same plane.

 

[DEEPWOODS]

They are about the same plane except the track bar is much shorter how does that effect it? I will measure the difference.The drag link goes all the way to the top of the passenger side knuckle I think this is ok for off road but not so great for highway ?

 

[bronconut73]

Guys like Garberz here on CB have extended their track bar so that it is nearly as long as a longer drag link like yours, so its doable.

 

[Tiko433]

I would try a drop bracket on it

 

[garberz]

Guys like Garberz here on CB have extended their track bar so that it is nearly as long as a longer drag link like yours, so its doable.

I moved my track bar mount to the outer yoke of the housing. The mount sits just under the lower coil spring cup. This is called the Yorsten track bar mod. My track bar is made from straight DOM with 3/4" SRE's on both ends. It's 8" longer than my old set up. I just made new steering links, now it's working better than ever.

Mark

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as mentioned, there are ways to improve the geometry of the steering linkage, but first the other parts must be in good shape, and you should have the alignment dialed in, customized for an old Bronco. You will get more focused help after you check all the moving parts including steering box, tie rod ends, ball joints and bushings for wear and lubrication, and post the wheel alignment numbers and tire pressure you run. Get a printout from the alignment shop. Good luck

 

[DEEPWOODS]

Everything is in good shape .It has 4 1/2 lift the drag link arm is about 10" longer than the track bar that is what I am asking could be the problem. I have always tryed to set them up on the same plane as much as possible.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Before you make random modifications, what are your alignment specs? Guessing you don't have enough caster.

 

[Rustytruck]

Check your toe in first. Check your tire pressures you don't want to be running on the center of your tires it makes the truck squirrley.
Do a search for bc broncos toe in.

 

[DEEPWOODS]

I have tryed different pressures and settled on 28lbs. and 1/4" toe. It has duff long arms so I think caster is ok .l probably need to get some instructions on the duff arms and check that . It was real bad at 1/8" toe 1/4 " is a little better. I think the tires are from 2011 and are real hard but they don't have any dry rott cracks.

 

[garberz]

I have tryed different pressures and settled on 28lbs. and 1/4" toe. It has duff long arms so I think caster is ok .l probably need to get some instructions on the duff arms and check that . It was real bad at 1/8" toe 1/4 " is a little better. I think the tires are from 2011 and are real hard but they don't have any dry rott cracks.

I'm running 35's. I've always set my toe-in at 3/8". Like this.

Mark

 

[Broncobowsher]

I'm still thinking he is running negative caster.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, X2 I would think caster too. Without alignment numbers it is just guessing and trying more parts. A straight on picture of the front end with the wheels going straight and the steering wheel centered would also help. I don't know if the guys with the long drag links feel the need to go with the longer Trac bar. Good luck

 

[ntsqd]

Drag-link to trac-bar length difference would only show up as dartiness in bumps and other rough pavement conditions. On smooth pavement it isn't going to affect much of anything. Smooth pavement bad behavior is more likely to be toe, caster, etc.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Drag-link to trac-bar length difference would only show up as dartiness in bumps and other rough pavement conditions. On smooth pavement it isn't going to affect much of anything. Smooth pavement bad behavior is more likely to be toe, caster, etc.

And to that I will also add that bumpsteer issues are worse with soft spring (since the suspension actually moves). Lots of old school builds had horrible bumpsteer geometery but since the springs and shocks were so stiff things didn't move enough to be felt. With modern soft springs you actually get a lot of travel and that makes bad bumpsteer noticeable. But as mentioned, you have to drive on roads that are rough enough to get the travel. Typical Bronco bumpsteer is usually most present under hard acceleration and hard braking, turning one way under gas and the other under braking in a predictable manor. Secondary feelings as you cross dips in the road at speed.

Poor driving that isn't related to road inputs, caster, toe are the big ones.

 

[DirtDonk]

Rats. Ran into the delayed response thing again from not being able to post. Just glad I saved it before hitting send though. Got a "server is busy" note again.
And even though I'm late to the party and have missed all the fun, I typed it up, so will post it anyway.
With a couple of additional quotes since yesterday.

It has 4 1/2 lift the drag link arm is about 10" longer than the track bar that is what I am asking could be the problem.

Really? Doesn't look like it from here. With 4.5" and apparently no dropped pitman arm or draglink, and still tie-rod under, your angles should be worse.
But the bottom line is that with even close to that much lift and no steering correction (other than a longer draglink) it's no surprise your steering isn't very nice.

I have tryed different pressures and settled on 28lbs. and 1/4" toe. It has duff long arms so I think caster is ok .l probably need to get some instructions on the duff arms and check that. It was real bad at 1/8" toe 1/4 " is a little better. I think the tires are from 2011 and are real hard but they don't have any dry rott cracks.

Good that you've experimented. You might have to do some more if you make further changes, but at least for now you know you're starting from a good place.
But the tires are also suspect no matter what. What are they, how many miles, and how is the wear?
The fact that they're coming up on six years old now, and most tire companies recommend changing by seven years, might be worth keeping in mind.
Not that six year old tires, or even older, could not be good ones. Just that they become more suspect as they get older. Especially if used hard.

Anyway, here's my original reply from Friday.
Maybe your angles could be a little better, and could be a little bit more parallel, but they're certainly not the worst we've seen around here.
Looks like you have room for a dropped arm and that will make the overall angle on the draglink more towards the level.
A dropped trackbar bracket will help keep the parallelism the same as it is now, and the bars in near the same plane..
The fact that your trakbar is now shorter than the draglink means it can get away with being a tiny bit steeper than the draglink, but also that no matter how good the angles, you might still see a little bit of bumpsteer from the unequal lengths.

But lowering the angles down a bit does help to reduce the severity of the changes.
How much lift are you running right now?

Some others have already posted on things that can effect your steering. You say it's acting up, so here's what to check in addition to what I said above.

1. Tire pressures.
2. Toe-in
3. Caster and Camber if you can get to an alignment rack
4. Trackbar bushings.
5. Tie-rod ends on all links.
6. Ball joints.
7. Wheel bearings.
8. Junk in the trunk (too much weight in the back unloading the front)
9. Junk in the truck part deux. Something like a loose u-bolt of failing spring can feel like it's in the front.
10. Radius arm bushings at the frame.
11. And the most important of all... Is your steering box perfectly centered when you're traveling down the road?
(edit: adding #12 would be the tire condition and age as mentioned above)

All of these and more can be checked best by doing the test we've talked about every other day over the years where you have a helper rack the steering wheel back and forth while you watch what's going on everywhere underneath.

It's surprising how often it's not just one of the listed things, but literally "all of the above" going on!

But lowering the angles might be your quickest, easiest, least expensive and most effective help other than re-verifying your alignment numbers.

Paul

 

[DEEPWOODS]

Thanks for the pics Garberz I will set my toe like you do with the tire off .I will post up a side view pic with the tire off . I am trying to do all I can myself before I go for alignment. On a smooth road it's ok to about 40 mph The front springs are very soft it really leans in a curve l have to correct back and forth several times. Are the duff arms fixed or adjustable?

 

[DEEPWOODS]

Also the passenger front tire is wearing on the outside more.I will move the back tires to the front and see if it helps any.

 

[bronconut73]

C-Bushings "are" the adjustment.

Most put 4° bushings in with Duff arms so you can still go on up to 7° bushings but try not to....
Duff arms have a bit of caster built in to them. With 7° bushings you will likely have front pinion angle issues.

At that point rotating your axle "C"'s is your next effort but I will bet you can get their without taking it that far.