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DC, I took my electric setup out, decided not to use it after the "remodel." It's the later year, stock setup. I did lengthen it for my vacuum windshield frame, but it's just a bolt in spacer. I'll trade you some DC Brau for it. LoL, I am in Manassas if you're interested.

DC, same situation here, I did add the later model electric wipers to my 67/68 frame. The holes on the inside had to be enlarged slightly, but the outside remained the same size.

Update: no issues with leaking, but it was very close to the hood cross brace. This valve supposedly allows you to dial the rears down to about 50%, but they still lock up before the front. I am wondering if I need to pull the front apart and make sure they are working correctly.

Power brakes!

A personal best, the DirtDonk responded to my post! DirtDonk, I don't know why I like to do things the hard way, I should have just purchased one of your kits. I bought two pre-made lines from a local parts house, one end had the 3/8-24 fitting, the other 1/2-20 for the MC port. I cut one of...

So I did this with that and those.

I think I have a solution and will post pics this weekend after (if) my plan works. Already had one fail with the "loaner" brake line flaring tool, the clamp wouldn't hold the line because it was broken. Maybe I need to buy a new one that hasn't been abused.

Think I found the answer to the fitting sizes on search number 130, LoL. MC ports: 1/2-20 & 9/16-18 Proportion valve end of lines; 3/8-24 & 7/16-24 Does this sound right?

Team, I just upgraded to a power brake booster and of course it magnified the issue of my rear drums locking up before the front discs. I bought a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and would like to connect it directly to the port in the master cylinder, then connect the rear line to that...

I know this is a late response to this thread, I was researching another issue and ran across this. Did you get it sorted out? Looking at your lines at the master cylinder (after upgrading to power brakes myself), I think they are backwards. My apologies if I am having a Captain Obvious moment.

It isn't so much about engine noise, guess that depends on your mufflers/exhaust. I have a 302 with a C4, 4.11 gears, and 33 inch tires. Definitely wish I had another gear or two on the highway or higher gears or bigger tires. I am going to go to 35s in the not to distance future, but I am...

Not sure about Ohio, but in VA diesel is in a completely different hose than gas, usually a green one. So no matter which octane you select, nothing is coming out of that green nozzle.

Nice color combo JAK. IRT the original post, I got the family four point cage from Toms. Pros: didn't have to modify the e-brake or glove box. Cons: no windshield support... but I have a plan for that.

Sorry NGSD, I missed your post. I went with the later model, one-piece and they worked fine. No issues, no modifications necessary.

Lots of dish soap to limit the cursing during install. If you can remove the frame from the Bronco, it will make the install easier BTW. The windshield frame that is...

My new engine did something similar, it was a mismatched balancer and fly wheel. Human error during the build. Once corrected it was fine, but unfortunately, the error was the fly wheel so that created some additional work for me.

Was this really a thing?

Florida DMV keeps track of your vehicles past and present (so they can jam you up on back taxes), most of my "newer" vehicles are still discoverable online, but if you call them they can probably scrounge up old stuff for you.

Try to save as much original metal as possible, the re-pop stuff will never line up as well and of course it is made in China. If possible, spend the money and have it dustless blasted first, it will save you a ton of time.

I think it turned out fair to middlin'