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All good here. No Stampede this year......thinking Colorado in sept.

I've had a Dana 20 behind my 203/ZF/ 393 on 35s since 1997 with zero issues. It does have the HD output shaft because that WILL break. It's been driven everywhere and up many trails. If you're a rough and abusive on the throttle you can break anything no matter what it is.

There is one running around in the Vancouver area. I talked to the owner when I saw it at a car show years ago. Whereabouts are you located?

The Factory style oil psi senders are garbage...just like everything else nowadays. I just replaced mine because the reading was off. Had to get 3 before I found one that read the same as my mech. test gauge. I also run an oil idiot light/buzzer so I don't miss a low oil psi moment when not...

very cool

I live in BC and that's a BC assigned vin number. The original vin would fine but it was either a rebuilt vehicle without papers , off the road for so long the paperwork is to old or no paperwork at all. The vehicle goes through a safety inspection and once passed a new vin is assigned.

Being in Canada we ship in a lot of stuff from the US. By the time shipping, duties, taxes, brokerage and $ exchange a $100 part is almost $400

Hello. I went through paypal to become a contributor . Being in Canada it charged me $16.00 which is the exchange. The problem I have is I still can't post pics. Can you please check to see if my payment went through. thanks Gary

Should not be fluid leak at switch. Those GM style prop vslves are made in cambodia TOTAL garbage .

Did you set the preload?

We have used those type of proportioning valves in the past. NEVER again. We build custom cars and have had so many leak that we won't use them anymore. Absolute offshore garbage.

Are you sure your "electric fuel pump" isnt the switching valve for tanks. I cant see all your pics, so just a guess of what your looking at. The pic of the rear tank shows the wires for the gauge are gone. Looks like the ground wire is there but not connected. Really need to see pics.

I use this site because its CLASSIC BRONCO. I would prefer it stay that way. Even the G6 section in here would not be a choice of mine. I am on other sites that have added extra gens and it turns into a chitshow of worthless threads being hijacked and arguments by the keyboard warriors.

I have an original Malotte fiberglass body. The glass body is not much different than steel. When they were in business they used to have Race Weight parts. They were just thinner non reinforced parts.

Any gussets on tubing should be on the corners of the tube to get full strength. Not on the flat side which can flex.

Read about that WOB link when I worked at a race shop years ago in a Racecar engineering book. Never seen one being used in person though. Just because the aftermarket sells a lot suspension kits and frames doesn't mean they work. I have had to modify many of them to get them to perform...

The pics may not show the true view.... but it looks like the arms are horizontally parallel. Generally, you want the lower arm to point up slightly at the front at ride height. The upper arm should point down slightly at the front. The instant centre should be about the top of trans near...

My wife...not me ....owned a Heep. I HATED driving it. Total POS . When the rocker arms started to go I sold it. Sick of fixing that pile of S***. Anyway, when I did drive it, I would never wave at another Heep.. In my early Bronco, I wave at every early Bronco but no Heeps. Went out...

What is the side profile of your frame and axle mount locations?

Don't seem to have these issues with my manual trans.... mmmmm LOL Never noticed any clicking in my 2013 Raptor 6r80