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Have you look at the Ruff Stuff Coil Spring 3 Link Kit? This sounds like what you are looking to do as far as eliminating the C-bushing, adding a link tab, and keeping the coil springs over the axle. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/3LINK-COILB.html...

For fit testing, you could section your part and 3D print in pieces. Then glue it together. I think he meant a 351W truck lower since the Lightning lower is extremely hard to find.

Well, 372 fps is nothing I want coming at me. But I couldn't pass up an opportunity to poke fun at your neatly 13 foot flex plate. ;)

Hmm... v = RPM * pi * D(ft) / 60 or D(ft) = v / RPM / pi * 60, -> 4000 / 6000 / 3.14 * 60 = 12.7 ft So you have a 12.7 foot diameter flex plate. ;D I think it's more like 372 fps for a 14.23 inch OD flex plate.

So it turns out that some knucklehead cut the wires to the turn signal switch to take the steering column apart, then put it back together with crimp connectors. %) That was when I first got the Bronco and didn't know any better. ;D I soldered and heat shrinked them as I should have years ago...

Thanks guys. I'll start testing the wiring to and from the turn signal switch.

Need some suggestions. Currently my brake lights are not working. Bulbs are fine, running lights work, turn signals work, brake switch on the pedal works. I was looking over the wiring diagrams and see that power goes from the brake switch into the turn signal switch before heading to the rear...

Bum luck with the spindle. In general, I agree that a seal can take up several thousands in variation, but much more difficult to do when it's over a short distance like the width of a razor blade. But it looks like you got it down pretty good.

Hey, that's a counterfeit bill. You better send it to me for proper disposal. ;)

You've got a welder, just make your own steel flares. 8-)

I agree. I hate cutting holes in my Bronco and in general, I prefer the stock look. But if I was going to add hood pins, I'd get the Quik-Latch ones. Certainly more expensive, but a nice clean look. https://www.quik-latch.com/QL-50-Series-Completed-Installations.html

You can have the stock cam and a couple lifters out of the 351 sitting in my garage. :p Haha... something tells me a stock cam just won't cut it for your stroker. 8-)

Geez oh Pete! Man that sucks. Did three lifter rotate or just stop rolling?

That chirp is quiet compared to what mine did a few years ago. Click... http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/dclack/media/Bronco/P6070082_zps5a0eb602.mp4.html I don't think photo bucket is working, trying YouTube... https://youtu.be/8QMTjbwQoIU

We buy a lot of investment castings at work and yes, the initial investment for the molds that make the wax part is huge. Have you looked into having the wax parts made with a 3D printer then sent to investment casting? It seems that should be much cheaper since you eliminate the need for the...

You should look into using 3D metal printing. It would be significantly cheaper. Here's a place in Boise that does 3D metal printing... https://www.intermountain3d.com/prototyping-and-design.html

In the tech article, they convert both the pump and box to -6 AN and then make/buy a -6 AN hose to connect the two. Absolutely nothing wrong with going that way if you choose; I was just showing how I did it with the hose I already had.

No, those won't work. That tube nut is for 3/16 tube, not 3/8. And (to do it the way I did) you do need to cut the stock 16mm Explorer fitting off, then flare the 3/8 tube nut on the remaining tube. In the end you will have a hose with one end metric and the other SAE. Here's what you need...

If you're talking about using the explorer PS hose, you need: 1 - Explorer power steering hose 1 - 3/8" inverted flare x 5/8-18 tube nut

Just my guess, but I'd say clearance. The engine sits toward the passenger side for more clearance to the front diff. Since the engine, tranny, and tcase are shifted, the rear diff is also shifted to reduce mis-alignment with the tcase output (i.e. less wear on the u-joints).