Okay, so the trans is in. Kind of a pain without a trans jack, but not impossible with some help (thanks to my Jeep buddy and fellow BYOB volunteer, Jamie).
First of all, the AA instructions are better used as recyclable printer paper (remove the staple first) ;D But I have to say that the instructions were made for a ZF and not a 4R70W.
The adapter comes nicely machined and with all required hardware.
Some pointers:
- Press the bearing onto the shaft first. The press fit on the shaft is tighter than in the aluminum housing (at least in my case it was). Try to press the bearing on the race that its mating to (inner race for the shaft, outer race for the housing) this limits the side pressure that the balls exert on the race.
- Insert the snap rings, one for the bearing, and one for the reused gear on the new shaft (you have to reuse that one, so take care in removing it).
- Clean all the surfaces (I used acetone) and apply a liberal coating of blue RTV silicone to the o-ring groove and spread it around. Make sure that the roller bearings don't fall in when you tap the smaller housing into the transfer case.
- The gasket between the larger housing and the transfer case needed to be trimmed - the center hole was too small in my case. Make sure the transfer case spins as freely as it did with the old adapter.
- Install the larger housing over the smaller one. The small drill point on the larger housing indicates "TOP" (no mention of this in the instructions, I thought that was valuable info).
- Try not to mar the surfaces, as they are closely matched to the trans. One little dimple and you'll have trouble getting it on the trans.
- Trim the shaft on the trans down about 1/2" (I did it enough to almost eliminate the center pilot hole)
- Trim the webs on the trans as shown in my pics in order to use the included T-shift adapter (the J-shift won't work, another thing you don't find out until you open the less-than-informative-instructions)
- You'll also need to cut a round boss off the drivers side of the trans to let the transfer case rear output shift into low range.
- Bolt it all up and you're done!! I used the center hole in the series of three clocking positions and the transfer case came out clocked close to original.
Now for the crossmember. I saved both the original and the Explorer thinking I was going to be able to Frankenstein one up...no dice. I took the original Explorer one and added 3-1/2 inches to each end after squaring up the ends with a cutoff tool. Welded up some 1/8" stock to extend it, flipped the original cross member frame brackets on the frame and now it'll bolt right up with a couple new holes...
Here's the pics!!!!!
1. Smaller housing installed
2. Larger housing installed
3. Gap before shaft trimming
4. Shaft before trimming
5. Shaft after trimming
6. All bolted up
7. Shift rail interference
8. Cut, drilled and clearanced for their bracket
9. Another view of pic 8
10. Bracket installed
11. Another view of 10