"The Beast" - Explorer 5.0/ZF/NP203/NP205 is ALIVE!

PDXBronco,

Wow it looks like you are getting a lot of work done. It looks good.

I noticed on your weld that it doen't look like you had good pen. I would bump up your volts and IPM. This will deepen the pen and wet out the weld. What are your settings?
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62987&d=1175385368

Best Regards
Martin

I thought it looked okay but I am definitely no expert, had rainbow across both surfaces, I've got it hot, it was on highest heat 10 and the recommended wire speed, I think 65 and the gas was at the right pressure. It wasnt as sunken as I like but it isnt really a sheer point (I would lose a u-bolt before the perch could ever come off.

What welder are you using? What wiring are you using?

miller 135 30 wire

The welds should be fine, I did a quick inspection and I wouldn't be worried about it.

Got new shafts ordered from Tom Woods today as well as picked up my DOM for the front steering and track bar, hopefully will get that all in in the next couple days.
Decided to go heims on the track bar and tie rod but a chevy 1 ton at the pitman on the drag link, figured that is where the most wear would be and have seen some good flex examples from the chevy tie rod and it should be a good mix of the two. Also didnt want to neck that bolt through the pitman down too far.
If it would just stop raining I might get more stuff done

I would love to see your pictures on the front steering as I want to do a conversion like that. Do you mind saying what your cost was for the project? I put in a little research for the heim joints and found there was a wide verance in price. What heim joints did you use?

As to the wire it sounds like you are using hardwire which is not structural. I have a 251 and when I do sheet metal I use 030 hard wire. When I am doing something heavy duty I use 045 dual shield, which is different then flux core. It is a type of flux core that is made to be used with C25 (75% Argon 25% Co2). The advantage over hard wire is deeper pen and the advantage over flux core is a better looking weld, with not as many dingle berrys. Also when set right the slag just pops off.

I hope this came across right and not sounding like a self righteous prick. I have become anal retentive when it comes to welds and the procedures. I am constantly learning new ways to do things to improve my welds as there is always something new to learn.

Best Regards
Martin

No prob Martin, I appreciate your input, I was told that the flux core can be used to get more penetration than the solid wire when welding on thick stuff above 3/16, didnt know it could be used with the gas too, I will have to look into that, can that be run in my miller 135? I got the welder for all the sheet metal I had to replace (other project) and boy did it work pretty! I usually take my stuff over to a friends house to do the heavier duty welding, especially for stuff like my Cage arm brackets and my track bar riser, etc. He is a pro and has some bad ass equipment.

As far as total cost...hmm let me add it up here for the most part...
Purchase 3200
Axles 400
PS Swap (4x4x2 box, pump, brackets, lines, etc) 400
Gears and Lockers and Install kits 1200
Install of gears and lockers 325
np435 swap and adapter and D20 J w/twins 475
Cage Arms 625
Cage 5.5 susp, f250 shock mounts 500
IROKs and Beadlocks after some dealin 400
Brakes, brake lines, hubs (everything new) 400
Gear BAnger 150
Hmm paint 50
spring mounts, shock tabs 25
New Drivelines 625
All Yukon alloy axles 600
Cage Shocks 160
Rear Shock Hoop 100
Custom Soft Top 1100
Family Crab Cage 1000
Misc Bolts, etc 150

So 11,885 about minus what I sold off the rig...axles (front to go still), wheels, tires, suspension, etc so I am at about 10k...damn, hope the wife isnt reading this now %)

But it will be a pretty darn capable rig, yeah still on half tons but I think they will do fine for quite a while, at least 2 years till I have a 60 to throw under the front and a hi9 for the rear or a HP 60 in the rear with rear steer ;D .

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=283494&WT.svl=283494

Is this what you are talking about? Sounds pretty good, I should pick some up to play with. What is the $'s on it? I called up my local airgas and talked to them and they had a product similar (still dual shield) that came in the 10# spool instead o the 33 or 60#'s which my machine wont hold. I'll probably have to pick up a liner too but I am definitely interested in trying it out.

lookin good dude, real good.

I like the transformation! I'll have to swing in one of these days. I'm "out side sales" so looks like a sales call to me eh? heehee!;D

Anytime, anytime. Hopefully will have the tie rod and drag link done tomorrow and be started on the track bar. Man with the TRO those linkages reall get flattened out.
Took the drop pitman off and cut off the track bar drop bracket, found a stock pitman arm on a spare frame I had ;D .
I am using the chevy 1 ton end and was figuring I would have to ream my pitman arm to get it to fit...nope, it fit perfect, gotta love it when chevy and ford come together :-X

PDXBronco said:

http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=283494&WT.svl=283494

Is this what you are talking about? Sounds pretty good, I should pick some up to play with. What is the $'s on it? I called up my local airgas and talked to them and they had a product similar (still dual shield) that came in the 10# spool instead o the 33 or 60#'s which my machine wont hold. I'll probably have to pick up a liner too but I am definitely interested in trying it out.

Click to expand...

The 10# stuff is probably the same. I usually buy the 33# stuff, but I get a little bit better price, which I am not suppose to say what that is. If your friend has a bigger welder I would use that instead of stressing out your 135. The max I would weld would be 3/16. The duty cycle for the 135 is 20% @90 amp. I don't know if you know what that means, but a cycle is 10 minutes. So you can weld 2 minutes @90 amps during that 10 minute cycle. Long story short if you have thick stuff to do buy your friend some beer and filler metal and ask to use his. This is not to say you could not practice dual shield with yours.


I was actually most interested in the price for the steering linkage vs the whole. What heim joints did you use?

Cheers
Martin

So how far along are you now? I've been fixing a few odds and ends on my Bronco to get ready for the wheeling trip. I need to figure out why my t-case keeps popping out of 4Lo, otherwise I'll be rolling with my bungie cord on the 29th

RedLeg0811 said:

I was actually most interested in the price for the steering linkage vs the whole. What heim joints did you use?

Cheers
Martin

Click to expand...

I'll get the inFo, just have to look it up, they appear to be the chromoly teFlon lined ones, I'll have to check on brand, I got them From a Friend (Drives one badass Bronco on 1 tons) who is helping me make the linkage, etc, and my track bar riser. Once he looks up what he paid I can get you a better idea. The tube was only $60 (10Ft) For tie rod, drag link and track bar, bungs were about $40, tie rod was $22 at Napa (PN ES2234R). The larger cost comes in the heims but should be around $150 so ~ $275 total.

I love it man! I am going to do the same thing one day! Maybe even put in 2 more doors, but what I would do is cut them in half width wise.
Cory,

Alright got everything pretty much done in the front, Riser is tacked into place, will finish that up with friends bigger welder, drag link (I put my saddle backwards %) but clearanced it so it still works without bind), tie rod, track bar all done, just have to take it all back off for a final weld on the axle then I will tighten it all up. I think the angles turned out pretty well, I could have gone a little higher on the riser but didnt want to go too high. Got my rear inboard shock hoop on too along with the lower mounts, time to order shocks! Anyways, enjoy, feel free to ask questions or evaluate. Tube is 1.5" .25 wall for all, 3/4 heims on all ends except at the pitman, thats a 1 ton chev tie rod on a stock pitman arm.

Looking good Josh!
How thick is the plate where the lower end of the trac bar bolts up?
I might consider a double shear type setup or a tube with a plate on the back and a longer bolt. But it may be fine how it is. Or is it already like that?

I believe the 2x6 box is 3/16" and the support leg is 1/4", the 3/4 bolt is welded to the back of the riser, inside the box. The guy who I am working with made his similarly on his 60 front end and has been fine. I'll keep an eye on it once I start using it.

I'm sure as long as the nut stays tight you won't ever have a problem.