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Electrical tech needed, bronco won't turn off & wiring issue

Laxdad

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2012
Messages
41
Loc.
Snohomish, WA
Guys, first I'll start with what I have, then what's going on, then what and how things are wired. I'll also add I consider myself an above average garage mechanic and have above average skill on diagnosing and problem solving.

I bought my 77 bronco from a Buddy who did the 3G upgrade /old regulator removal. He also installed a new coil and distributor.

First I have a 130a 3G alternator and I'm only getting about 6-7 volts off the back of it at idle. It doesn't seem to be charging my battery as when the Truck is running the most volts i'm getting at the battery is maybe 11 I've replaced it three times so now I'm pretty sure it's not a bad alternator.

Second, sometimes my bronco won't turn off. I've replaced relay 4 times and now went to solid top post style, ignition switch and starter. It will run fine for a week or a day and then Wham it just won't stop. Today it happened to my son and it killed the battery really quick. When I pulled the I post wire off it seemed to "reset" itself and is now working fine again.

It's almost a viscous circle in the fact that this then kills the battery when I come out to start the bronco, which could be part of my charging problems.

Now the wiring. I have never seen the old regulator as the 3G is internally regulated.

I'll start with starter relay (top post new style napa #STH404)
B Terminal, 0 ga wire to battery, yellow wire from harness, black w/ yellow stripe (fusible link) from harness & black w/ red stripe (fusible link) from harness (both the black wires are about 10-12 ga and go to the same plug with a yellow wire that is going down to the "I" terminal on the alternator.
M Terminal, 0ga wire going to starter.
I Terminal, brown wire from harness ( wiring diagram says this ties into a Red w/ green stripe wire hat goes to coil, but.... On the drivers side coming out of the cab is a Red w/ green stripe wire just cut off. This wire is on the same line as the brown wire as verified by a onto unity check - see below under coil).
S Terminal, Red w/ blue stripe from harness (this goes to back of ignition switch)

All these "harness" wires o through the firewall on the passenger side into the cab.

Alternator, pretty self explanatory.
B+ Terminal, 0ga wire goes to starter relay B
A Terminal, yellow/white wire goes to Alt B+
S Terminal, white/black wire goes to spade on Alt
I Terminal, this wire goes to a yellow wire that is in the same under/connector as the two thicker black wires on the relay B terminal.

Battery
0ga wire from + to starter relay B Terminal
0ga wire from - to frame, I also have a 0ga wire going from frame to block on both sides of engine.

Coil
Positive side has two wires.
One wire goes to distributor
Other wire is going to a Red w/ blue stripe wire that comes out of the drivers side firewall. This wire goes to the back of the ignition and is the same wire (continuity checks out) as the wire on the "S" terminal of the starter relay.
Negative side has one wire going to distributor.

A little no on the harness coming out of the drivers side. Out of this harness there are 5 wires. Two (white/red & red/white) go to the water temp & oil pressure sensors. One is the Red w/ green stripe wire that is on the same line as the brown wire from the I post on the starter relay (continuity check) that is just cut and goes to nothing. Then there is a blue wire & the Red w/ blue stripe wire in a cannon plug. Blue wire ones to nothing & red/blue goes to coil.

Sorry for so much info, but I'm not just looking for a "replace the relay" answer. I've put tons of hours into researching this and getting everything straightened out and am looking for someone who really understands the charging system and correct wiring.

I greatly appreciate any help and can take pics in the morning and am also willing to talk to someone over the phone if it helps.
John
 
Last edited:

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,335
Sounds like a '76-'77 that has had the duraspark cut out and a pertronix put in? You might have some issues with the cut wires on the driver's side (won't turn off, etc). Look in my gallery for the '76-'77 duraspark diagram.

Alternator, relay, battery cables sound correct. It would be better to take some voltage measurements on the alternator wires to diagnose the problem there. Pics could help too.
 
OP
OP
L

Laxdad

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2012
Messages
41
Loc.
Snohomish, WA
Viper, i think your right about the duraspark to petronix.
I not have an after market distributor with a flamethrower II coil.

I looked at your gallery, but my problem is I dont have the modulator with insulator nor any of the wires from your schematic.

I'm going to insert a bunch of pics of everything, but I also took some voltage measurements too.

Item................OFF.........ACC..........Start..........Idle
Battery............12.25.......12.13.........----..........12.18
Relay (B term)...12.25.......12.12........11.01.........12.18
Relay (I term)....00.03.......02.15........11.4...........2.2
Relay (S Term)...00.00.......00.01........9.63..........00.01
Alt (B+ Term).....12.25.......12.13........-----........12.17
Coil (+ Term).....00.00.......12.09........----..........11.95


DSCN0436.jpg

DSCN0435.jpg

DSCN0434.jpg

DSCN0433.jpg

DSCN0432.jpg

DSCN0431.jpg

DSCN0437.jpg


Im almost wondering if I have a short or i possibly have the wrong wire going to the coil. You see in the picture of the driver side firewall the Red w/ Green stripe wire is cut and barely visible, while the Red w/ Blue stripe wire is oging to the coil.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,335
Battery is a little low but that is to be expected because the alternator isn't working. "I" terminal is suspicious because of the 2V in ACC and RUN. In an unmodified harness I would expect the same voltage there as COIL+. Somewhere that "I" wire may be partially shorted to a constant power source. That will keep it running after the key is turned off. The stock wiring used a brown wire coming from the "I". It was spliced into to the COIL+ wire somewhere near the red 3-pin connector coming through the firewall at the rear of the engine. Everything else on the relay looks ok.

You need to measure the alt "I" terminal with the key in RUN. 12V should make the alt work. 0V won't make it work.
 
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