4bt Cummins Diesel build Thread

After 10 years of gathering parts, I'm finally starting to build.

Build list:




Full width HO Dana 60 front "with ARB" 4:10 gears, 35 spline axles, soild Knuckles, high steer, 3/4 ton TRE


Full width Dana 60 rear, 35 spline axles, disk break conversion
NV4500 5 speed tranny
Atlas 2 or 4 "still trying to decide which
Duff long radius arms


DIY Beadlocks




I know others have built something similar and I would value any feed back you wanted to give. I'm doing all the fab work myself so bring on the tips and tricks.

Thanks

Saweet!

Looking forward to your build. I have some of the necessary swap parts and have always wanted to do this but it's a commitment.

My .02 is to go with an Atlas 4 or at least the Race Case on an Atlas 2 so you could upgrade to a 4 down the road if you want. And going with the Atlas 4 will help with your front driveshaft angle.

Very interested! Good luck

Thanks

I'm leaning towards the Atlas 4 because I really like that it gives you more options for what ever your conditions are. Not sure how much longer it is than the Atlas 2 but, I stretched my rig a couple inches in the rear so maybe that will help.

Tonight I'm cutting out all the old motor mounts and fitting in the BC Broncos 4bt brackets. I'm curious to see how they fit. Need to create a temp cross member to so that I can cut out the old front cross member to make room for the lower new one.

I went with an Atlas 2 with 4.3:1 gears, which has worked out really well for me. But I have a 302 that's very happy to spin. With my NV3550 5 speed I can go fast enough in 5th gear low range (18 mph at 2500 rpm), and slow enough in 1st gear high range, that I don't have to hunt between low and high too often. For me saving the $1000 by not getting the Atlas 4 was definitely the right call.

But your 4BT won't want to spin as high as a 302. It might seem like you're racing it a bit when you're in low range and the trail smooths out. An Atlas 4 would give you a 2.72:1 option for that.

So I'm not sure what I'm recommending. I guess try to decide how happy you'll be running the engine at 2000 - 2500 rpm on smooth trail sections and how deep your pockets are.

I haven't driven in a rig with atlas 2 or 4 so just basing my opinion on what I read, youtube videos and what makes sense in my mind. Of course the $1000 more isn't something I'm excited about.
Would really like to drive in a atlas 2 to see if its enough.

Well, the good news is I have plenty of other work to do while I'm figuring it out.

Sounds like your build will be very similar to mine. I found a 4spd locally and went that route since it saved me a couple bills over a new one shipped.

My build is here:

http://www.cb4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?5096-Ms-Piggy-Black-and-Blue!

I have one on here but never finished it. Have fun!

Also:

Front DS angle really won't be an issue with the HP60. My rear DS ended up pretty short and more critical.

If you haven't bought gears yet, I'd go with 3.73's instead of the 4.10's if I was doing it over. Food for thought. (Assuming a 37" tire).

Wow Bart.......there is a lot of great information in your build thread. I have so many questions I want to ask you but......the biggest one I want to ask is.......how is she driving?

MPG and power what you were hoping? What turbo are you using?

I have to do a bunch more reading of your thread, I'm sure those answers are in there for me to find.

Awesome, I was starting to think the diesel swap fad was starting to wane. Looking forward to the build. Post lots of pictures.
Doug

Installed the full width dana 60 rear today, 37" IROK DIY beadlocks

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View from the front

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A view of the Dana 60 Full Width from the back

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Next on the list is to mock up the motor so I can see where the motor mounts......frame rail......and firewall clearance issues will be. I have a BC Bronco's 4bt motor mount and cross member kit but, have had a really tough time getting any information or even photos from them to help me get the install right. I don't think they even sell that kit anymore. Could really use a picture showing where the mount the relocated front cross member.

Got the motor mounts all fab-ed in. Lots of measuring and tweaking to make sure everything fits. Have the motor about as far back as I can get it without hitting the firewall. Looks like the FW Dana 60HP may clear without having to notch the oil pan. Moving the motor back certainly helped that. One unexpected thing was, the NV4500 tranny cross member is shifted to the passengers side. "Came from Wildhorses like that. I assume it's to clear the front driveline. I haven't ordered my Atlas yet so not sure how thats all going to line up. But, there is enough adjust ability to account for what will be needed. Right now the motor sits nice and low but, the motor mount bushing stub is contacting the bottom of the Power steering reservoir. So might end up adjusting it up a bit. It's pretty minor really.





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Notched the frame to clear the dodge starter

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Also installed the rear bumper drivers side arm. When I bought the bumper, I didn't get the gas can arm. Ordered the add on kit from Protofab and got it all welded up. they sure make a nice product. I have a gas can tool box on it now. Going to fab up my own 50Cal. Ammo boxes on and a cooler carrier as well. Should be fun. The protofab arm is really strong and should have no problem supporting the weight.

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Then next focus is going to be getting the FW Dana60HP all mocked in so I can see how the final clearances will look. I may move the axle a little forward though don't want to go so far that I have to hack up my body. The steering was mounted on the inside frame rail but thinking I will switch it up to the outside. I need to do some more research on the right power steering setup. I have a hydroboost, and want to have a ram assist on the power steering. I have heard people talk about how that robs power away when turning and braking at the same time. Some have sent there steering boxes to get ported out but thats not real cheap. Like I said, need to read up more on that topic.