74 Explorer (swap) - The "Great Pumpkin" Build

1buckeyefan1 · Dec 3, 2017

So i had an urge to take a wire brush and see what lied below 1/2" of bondo on the passenger side. WTF happened? It looks like the PO took a drill to it and started creating a connect-the-dot puzzle w/ very poorly aligned holes.

The driver side had slightly less bondo, but has some serious dents and a few holes + cancer. I have a spare OEM/Carpenter rocker. I can't decide if I should patch it w/ pieces left from the passenger side (if there is anything usable) vs. drilling out and replacing it all?

Galt72 · Dec 4, 2017

that's the old school way of pulling dents. Drill a bunch of holes and use a puller on it. I'd drill it out rocker and replace it. Your going to find rust between the panels and your going to be so much happier when you know it's all clean straight metal. The spot weld drill bits from Harbor freight work pretty well with a little wd40

1buckeyefan1 · Dec 4, 2017

Galt72 said:
that's the old school way of pulling dents. Drill a bunch of holes and use a puller on it. I'd drill it out rocker and replace it. Your going to find rust between the panels and your going to be so much happier when you know it's all clean straight metal. The spot weld drill bits from Harbor freight work pretty well with a little wd40

ah, that explains it much more. I've seen the welded studs for pulling dents, forgot about the drill a sh** ton of holes method.

Coincidentally, I picked up another 3x of the HF spot weld bits earlier today + a welding blanket for when I get to the front.. Does anyone have a good source for the removable head part or do you just throw away the shaft when you're done w/ both ends? I learned the hard way early on that you have to keep it square to conserve the teeth. Do they ever go on sale for less than $4.99? I think I have 5 in reserve now. L

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 1, 2018

Front clip replaced!

Making some progress this month w/ time off work. Got the front inner fenders replaced and found the the drivers front wheel tub was crumpled from a previous accident and barely hanging in by a couple of welds. Replaced it too, the JBG replacement metal was a spot on match.

Fortunately the core support was pretty solid, which helped minimize alignment issues (I think).

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 1, 2018

After gaining some confidence + experience from the front, i decided to move onto the passenger rear quarter. The lower had a bit of rust, but the inner was pretty much gone at the seam line. I followed one of the earlier how-to and cut it out about an inch from the seams and carefully drilled out the spot welds and tried avoid using the air chisel in order to keep the original metal intact.

The only positive surprise is after grinding away a 1/2" of bondo, the tail light section looks to be in decent shape. It seems the PO butt welded it in (after i presume it came loose from the swing-away spare mount) and decided to fill it in vs welding it back correctly/internally. Although I have a new tail light section already purchased, I think I'm going to try and save this one.

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 1, 2018

Rear Quarters in

So it's been a pretty productive week off. I got the inner/lower quarters cut out, determined I can salvage the rear tail light extension (I have read too many stories on trying to get those to fit well). So despite having already purchased one, I think i'm going to delete the old spare bracket holes and do some body work on it)

I think I have the correct sequence of how to remove/replace everything.

1. I'm going to re-weld the inner quarter + floor extension
2. then remove the outer rocker.
3. Weld in the lower quarter (I really wish the new flared quarters were out and I would use those. It sorta hurts to weld in a new panel and then rough/flare cut it)
4.) weld in the rear extension
5.) weld in the outer rocker

I'm still stumped on the top/rear door gap. I don't think the striker post has moved.. as I had it braced until I put the door back on and there is no slack. I really hope I can decrease the gap by working with the door a bit more.

I also need to bump up the inner quarter about 1/4". It's riding directly on the door striker post right now.

btw, i thought I read another build thread where they found a wrench behind the door post? Yep, I found a 1/2" wrench in mine as well as a old "Big Mountain" button...along with an inch of gunk that helped rot out 2 nice sized holes in the post.

Any words of wisdom/experience before I weld in a colossal multi-week setback?

bronkenn · Jan 2, 2018

That is looking good. Sure is a lot of work especially working with new sheet metal. A little at a time and before you know it, its done. Ken

1strodeo · Jan 2, 2018

Looks like somebody had a holiday weekend ;D keep it up man

I gotta get a garage heater, I didn't go in the garage all weekend, except to get a beer...speaking of, I think the fridge is keeping the beer from freezing %)

-25 wind chill this morning

Rocko1012 · Jan 2, 2018

Looking good, What are you using to drill out the spot welds? Spot welds are killing me, eating up bits from Harbor Freight.
Thanks

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 2, 2018

Rocko1012 said:
Looking good, What are you using to drill out the spot welds? Spot welds are killing me, eating up bits from Harbor Freight.
Thanks

I'm using the same HF bits too. I think I've gone through 5 so far (both sides of the bit). I've got some wax that helps w/ cutting, but the biggest destroyer is when they hop out of the pilot hole. very few of the welds are perfectly flat, so when it hops, I break a few teeth and curse. I've destroyed a bit on the first cut already when this happens

bronkenn · Jan 2, 2018

I have been using the rotobroach cutters for years. They last a long time and do a good job. I used them back in the late 70's and on while changing side panels and fenders and other sheet metal on GM trucks in the factory. They lasted the longest and you could go through one layer of metal at a time. Ken

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 2, 2018

door panels have arrived!

Just got a package today and am pretty happy with how the ebay-sourced door panels turned out. The script isn't as prominent upright and the vinyl material has a nice texture to it.

Here's hoping I'll be able to install them in 6-9 mos

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 16, 2018

Fitment takes time..

So everyone has complained about the fitment of the aftermarket tail light extensions.. yeah, they suck. Mine are about 1/8" longer and don't fit nearly as tight onto the original flanges. However the tailgate body line still looks pretty good, so I'm going to try and find a way to make them work. If my original didn't have all of the tire rack holes & associated dents, broken top flange, etc, I'd have tried to use it. But alas I already had the repro extension sitting there and couldn't resist making it work. I don't have the confidence yet I could split & section it to "shrink" it yet and make it look good enough for the body guy not to have to spend hours fixing it.

On a positive note, I replaced all of the body mounts and removed the redneck 1" square tube "extra" body lift kit. Back to 2" body lift now. I also measured my axle to the frame and it appears that i'm at standard height (7")?

I'm becoming more happy with the door gaps. I had to add a small shim to the rear body mount to tighten the gap a bit. There was nothing I could do to the panel to close it.

1buckeyefan1 · Jan 16, 2018

I also got around to removing the passenger rocker over the long weekend. Surprisingly the HF spot weld remover lasted through the entire panel. It seems that I need to drill pilot holes to keep it from skipping out.. as once it skips and catches elsewhere the teeth are destroyed.

I was happy to find that the inner rocker was in solid shape. The front door post had a rotten "cap" a the bottom that I had to cut out a new patch for it. What are these called anyhow? It's the little cap that fits into the bottom of the front door post. I can't find them listed on any of the major vendor sites.

1buckeyefan1 · Sep 15, 2020

And we're back!

Alright.. it's embarrassing how long the pumpkin has been in hiding.. as cliche as it sounds, life & a 2-yr house remodel took priority over my build.

I've been picking up parts & knowledge though over the last few years.. so all is not lost. Oh, and I remembered to pay up on my site contributor status so I can post some pictures of my progress. As I look back on many of the previous build threads, i've found that the pictures are invaluable.. both in understanding how someone else braced up their 4R70W crossmember, or how to figure something out w/ the collective wisdom.

Here's my update:
1.) found/modified a rotisserie. I read in a thread that 2" steel tube will flex and it sure does. I think i have braced everything well and don't plan to weld any further while it's on the cart, but I should be able to strip the bottom and raptor line it while I work on the frame. Good news is that I found both stamped VIN's in the frame and they match!

2.) bought a donor 2001 Mountaineer. I'll admit, this is the most intimidating part (and wouldn't have tackled it if not for these forums)...but I really want EFI and an overdrive transmission. have both sitting and waiting to be cleaned up. EFIGuy knocked out the harness and I've got the AA adapter kit. Still need to regear at 4.56, but have the parts.. hoping to find someone local that will reasonably install it for me. Found a 23gal tank, external fuel pump, as well as the 4R70W crossmember. Still need the broncohut shorty headers as well as modifying/new drivehshafts

I'll probably lean on the forums heavily over the next few mos.. so I appreciate all of the sage advice in advance. My goal is to get it in epoxy primer and running again by spring.. to hopefully make room for a 2021 Bronco to park next to it

1buckeyefan1 · Sep 15, 2020

So the frame looked surprisingly good with the body off. as mentioned, I found both (matching) serial numbers. Looks like the body was off at some point previously though and someone decided to additional mig weld alot of the suspension components (was told it was run hard in new mexico prevously). i cleaned up some of the welds.

Only repair seems to be the rear body mounts. Fortunately, I picked up some bronco graveyard frame savers some time back. i'll post another pic when they're welded in.

Rustytruck · Sep 15, 2020

looks like your on a roll now, right down the rabbit hole you didn't want to go. it get frustrating once you get it painted and takes so long to get it in the driving condition. 2 more summers and you will be done. then looking for another one.

markatherton · Sep 16, 2020

explorer

Your 73 explorer has the same misprint in the Marti as mine; Says front bench seat.

1buckeyefan1 · Sep 16, 2020

markatherton said:
Your 73 explorer has the same misprint in the Marti as mine; Says front bench seat.

Hah, good eye. I never noticed that. I still have the original bucket seats (rear is long gone). still holding out hope that I can find an old set w/ the indian blanket pattern so I can go back to stock someday.

Rustytruck · Sep 16, 2020

Was that paint orange metallic poly or solid non metallic orange?

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