Bronco in Norway

New day in the garage, continued on the painless wiring harness and ran the relevant parts through the firewall. I have the 3 port body with passenger, engine and driver side but choose to run also run the passenger side through the driver hole and then let it run along the firewall in the engine department (wrapped in some serious protection) to get as much cables as I could out from the cramped space behind the dash...

That leaves as you can see half the amount of cables behind the dash:



Versus how it would have looked otherwise:



I also discovered that my seat frame is poorly welded and the bracket modified somehow. I’ll have to order some new seats, I would have loved the originals but I want some sort of headrest for safety.. any good tips of a basic model? Check out how my seats looked:




The dash also seemed to be a pre 72 model as it has the placement of the wash/wiper knob on the lower vs higher row... so as many of you has suggested it appears the frame and interior has been replaced.



It might also explain why my park break bracket doesn’t fit, or is it the bracket that is wrong? See the couple of inch space up to the dash. Thinking of just fabricating a longer bracket so that I can connect it to the dash. Thoughts?



Next on the list I had struggled to loose the alternator(?) cable, painless has a replacement but I’m not sure if I can get the old one offf without ruining the gauge. Any tips? Alternatively I can just link in parts of the old cable with the new harness?





Plus a photo of the engine bay:



My alternator is of the old type which needs a separate box to regulate it. I’m thinking of replacing with a newer version that has that regulator integrated. Less cables and hassle.. any reason not too?

That’s it for tonight.. current state of the dash area:





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Alternator photo:





This is the type of regulator I seem to have:


https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Heavy_Duty_Voltage_Regulator/Bronco_Starters





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seen lots worst when it comes to wiring.. Looks good

Randomly I found the 77 “fuel doors” in the same color as the body.. so I don’t know if my body was repaired with pre 77 parts or what happened... a bit of a case of a bastard bronco

Otherwise making slow and steady progress painless has been installed ex engine bay where I’m waiting for a few new parts.

Can anyone help identify my rear end housing? Is this the 9” the 77 is supposed to have?






In progress of installing a speedometer cable I also discovered that I lack the “gear and bracket” at the transfer case... it was replaced by a nice wood plug:



I also tried to repair my door hinges with a kit. It was a nightmare to get the old pins out but I got there eventually and drilled out a larger whole for the new parts.. though I struggled to get the new pin in all the way.. it was sticking up a quarter of a inch or so... so that doesn’t fly.. splashed out 200 bucks for a new set of removables from TBP...





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Great progress , it sometimes amazing what you find the previous owner dreamed up and did. I like your do it once and do it right thinking . You won' regret it in the end.

krdale said:

I also discovered that my seat frame is poorly welded and the bracket modified somehow. I’ll have to order some new seats, I would have loved the originals but I want some sort of headrest for safety.

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Non-original seats. From underneath at least, I've never seen a Bronco seat with that plastic crush zone in it. Could have been swapped in as a safety requirement in your country, or the old seats were just worn out. Very common.
Or someone just didn't like the original seats. Also very common.

krdale said:

The dash also seemed to be a pre 72 model as it has the placement of the wash/wiper knob on the lower vs higher row.

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Interesting. Does look to be the '74-'77 because it has the correct "light bars" (indicator lights) for the later orientation. Someone may just have moved the switches around.
Or they carefully cut the light bar holes in an earlier dash to get part of the look back.

krdale said:

It might also explain why my park break bracket doesn’t fit, or is it the bracket that is wrong? See the couple of inch space up to the dash. Thinking of just fabricating a longer bracket so that I can connect it to the dash. Thoughts?

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Strange one there. Looks like a correct assembly, but may have something missing. Not sure.
The '76 and '77 units were different from the earlier models, but yours looks like the correct later one to me at just a glance.
You could create the longer bracket, but I would try to shim the lower stud to see if that will angle the assembly up enough to at least close the gap somewhat. At least that way you'd only need a shorter bracket.
I'll see if I can find those pics of the new and old pedal assemblies side by side to see if we can tell what yours is. The more I look at it though, the more it looks like it's from a different vehicle.

krdale said:

Next on the list I had struggled to loose the alternator(?) cable, painless has a replacement but I’m not sure if I can get the old one off without ruining the gauge. Any tips? Alternatively I can just link in parts of the old cable with the new harness?

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You could use part of the old one, but I would try to get it off more before you do. Better to not have any new splices that could cause trouble down the road. How hard have you tried pushing it through? Is the rubber just too hard to compress?
Alternately (no pun intended!) you could replace that instrument/gauge with a volt-meter instead. I still prefer the ammeter, but if you do decide to replace your old alternator with a newer, higher output version you will no longer be using that larger Black w/yellow wire anyway.

krdale said:

My alternator is of the old type which needs a separate box to regulate it. I’m thinking of replacing with a newer version that has that regulator integrated. Less cables and hassle.. any reason not too?

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Not really. It's usually considered a good upgrade. Usually what's called the 3G version, with from 95 to 130 amp output and internally regulated.
For either you will no longer use the existing 10-gauge Black w/yellow wire and instead run a larger gauge wire (6ga battery cable is the most common) directly to the battery, or starter relay on the battery side.

krdale said:

Alternator photo:

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Is that a "D7" I see there in the stamped numbers? If so, you may actually have the original alternator. It's not that there are not replacements available with the same numbers, but the numbers are all over the place when you purchase from the aftermarket, and the "D7" means '77 in Ford-speak.

Just a little extra cool-factor only though. The newer 3g style is still the better choice for most. But also, if this one works well still, nothing wrong with deciding to keep it.

krdale said:

Can anyone help identify my rear end housing? Is this the 9” the 77 is supposed to have?

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Yes, that is the '77-only Ford 9" housing. Can't tell if the center section and it's gears are original without looking at them of course, but the housing is of the correct, reinforced heavy-duty type.

The leaf springs look to have either sagged out enough for the main pack to have settled down on to the top of the "overload" spring, OR, there is an add-a-leaf on the bottom.

Very clever use of wood in the speedometer cable hole! I wonder what happened that cause them to use that? Maybe the old cable end just rusted completely off.

Having fun yet?;D

Paul

Loads of fun I'm sure.. LOL

Just hit one thing at a time

Thanks for the intel Paul! Moving ahead and replaced my water pump yesterday, new parts arrived today so replacing radiator hoses and the alternator as well! Plus the new parts for the heater oh and the new door hinges!

Both boxes are from toms, wonder what’s in the second one!




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rustbucket said:

He must be an oil and gas guy?

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Nah..he's an IT technician for IKEA.

krdale said:

Both boxes are from toms, wonder what’s in the second one!


Sent

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haha, watch out it don't bite ya

Don't rebuild the heater if your planning to add air conditioning. Where you live you might want to go with the Chevy motor and fan upgrade if your going to rebuild the heater.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54371

Rustytruck said:

Don't rebuild the heater if your planning to add air conditioning. Where you live you might want to go with the Chevy motor and fan upgrade if your going to rebuild the heater.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54371

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No need for AC in Norway, it’s two days a year when you need it and then I’ll be driving with the top down!


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3g alternator upgrade... any wise words on the best way to mount it? It’s a bit deeper so the + wire connection on the back touches my engine block slightly.. the adjuster arm is then almost fully extended... too little margin left for me to sleep comfortably...

I don’t want to start grinding the block - so maybe just extend the adjustment bracket? Can’t seem to find them longer on the shelf in any of the stores? Weird I can’t seem to find many others with this problem...

Might just weld it to make it a tad longer?


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See if clocking the housing on the alternator helps your cause.
do an online search for the procedure.

Update! So i decided not to clock the housing on the alternator as that got a bit too technical for me.... So i extended my bracket extension arm and got a bit longer alternator belt on the way.. so that should work!

I´ve also manged to complete the dash wiring and installed my new ididit (just realsed that writes as I DID IT?) column (with a wheel!) as well as the new speedmeter cable.. And replaced the water pump.. so making progress here... will put in some photos via my mobile:

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Next up i got completely carried away on stuff from TBP today.. I have been digging working on the car in the garage and keep finding new stuff i want to fix... one issue on the todo list is that my carb is leaking , but we had spare one from my brothers jeep i planned on putting on.. But my installing my wire harness i got real up close with my fuel tank and hoses etc and it all looks pretty rotten... I eventually wanted to go down the EFI route so i figured why not just jump into it.... so i ordered a whole bunch of stuff including relative to my EFI:

FiTech Go EFI 4, 600
23 gal fuel tank w hyperfuel pump
Fuel line and adapter kit for the fuel tank..
Fuel Pump Blockoff Plate (almost forgot that one)

That should have all the parts i need.. in addition to that i..Then realized i need a new intake manifold (only have 2 port) so i called summit and asked for the one that had the lowest profile.. (as TBP mentioned i might have issues with my hood clerance).. So i have a Edelbrock 21213 (aka Perfomer 289) on the way, which should fit...

I've never done this before so learning by doing.. (and asking you guys! /google) but i am uncertain if i also need to do something with my HEI setup... As you can see below that is what i have, and i know for instance it has vacum.. So my question is if i need to replace it or not.. from what i can see its a speedway, but i couldnt find a part number on it.. it does say LATCH on the lid if that helps...

An other question.. which air filter are people using without a bodylift and fitech? I´ve been told it will be tight... maybe ill have to do a small body lift

Oh and for those that notice the random set of bolts used all over the place the car is a mess of bolts.. so i have a fresh full bolt set coming in to get things in order...






Maybe i can go down this route that JAFO did. Looks pretty sweet, but i was hoping to have some spare space for some tools where that filter sits.

JAFO said:

I like mine, but it wasn't cheap. Bought from Summitracing. I like it because I have easy access to everything even with the breather installed. Edelbrock intake, Holley carb. Figure with a washable filter you break even after a while of not buying paper filters.
SPE-9729 4" PIPE $23.97
SPE-9736 AIR FILTER $30.97
SPE-9771 TUBE COUPLER 4" $14.97
SPE-98499 AIR HAT $99.99

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Update! While I wait for more parts.. I ripped out the old fuel tank, still need to take out the aux one and all the old piping...



Then onto more exciting things, following Nashville early bronco’s videos for a lot of help. That guy is a lifesaver!










Cleaning it up!




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While I wait for the rest of the parts...

Cut the heads of the old bolts and used them to guide the new intake on..




It surely isn’t a engine room of matching colors and harmony... but as long as it runs







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Glad to see you making headway....