Still getting HOT!

I keep eliminating things to keep from overheating, but still hasn't helped. Any more suggestions. Stock 302. Usually only does it on the trail. Happens about 15-200 minutes into the ride and it gradually rises to about 200-210. Usually 30 minutes into it she gets 215-220. Bubbles aand spits. It has done this everytime I hit the trails. I have new water pump, been through 3 thermostats (180's), Fan shroud, Full of Antifreeze. I am running stock fan, but should it still heat up? I know people that run the stock setup and have no problems. Really didn't want to get a pusher fan, but may have to. Timing is also right on the money. Anything else I can do or check before going the pusher fan route? Thanks Much,

Blue71

I had the same issue with my 302. When on the trail, moving slow, the engine can't turn the fan fast enough to cool the engine. I eliminated the mechanical fan and installed a 16" puller fan. I do think I will add a mechanical fan on my 351 along with the electric. Whatever you do, DO NOT mount the electric fan through the radiator, make supports to mount to the core support or the radiator mounts etc. My first electric fan was through the radiator, and it ripped a hole in it within the first three months.

here is a list of things that put together. i fought with the same issues you described. and after doing most things on this list,it still wasn't as cool as i wanted untill i bought the wild horses staggered 4 core radiator. if you don't have a good 4 core, i would highly reccommend it.

1) Check coolant levels. Low coolant levels will defiantly cause an engine to run hot.
2) Make sure the fan is not on backwards. This is a very easy mistake to make.
3) Make sure fan belt is not defective or adjusted improperly.
4) Burp all air from cooling system.
5) Check ignition timing. Having the timing set too far in advance is a common cause for running hot.
6) Set fan approximately 1” from radiator.
7) Make sure the carburetor is not set too lean.
8) Check for vacuum leaks.
9) Check the condition of hoses. Make sure they are not collapsing.
10) Make sure you have the correct rotation water pump. Ford made both clockwise and counterclockwise pumps.
11) How efficient is your radiator? A 30 year old radiator full of hard water deposits will have trouble cooling an engine.
12) Change you water/antifreeze ratio. Run as much water as you can, depending on climate.
13) Consider relocating your auxiliary transmission cooler. At least give it a few inches between it and your radiator.

If you’ve tried all of these tips, and still have cooling issues, then it’s time to spend a little money to help the cause. I would start in this order.

** install a four core radiator**
1) Install a new 180* thermostat.
2) Install a new 16lb radiator cap.
3) Install a good 6 or 7 blade fan.
4) Install a radiator shroud, if you don’t already have one.
5) Add a bottle of water wetter to the coolant. This works best with a higher water mixture.
6) Install a high flow water pump.
7) Mount an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator.
8) Perform a rear intake crossover modification. This will move the water that normally hits a dead end in the rear coolant channels of the heads.
9) Install header wrap on the headers. This will greatly reduce the temperature under
the hood, while increasing performance.

About the only thing Jason didnt say was the block full of gunk. I have run into a lot of this on old motors. You can remove the water pump and use high presser water and flush the block. The gunk gets in the bottom of the water openings by the cylinders and they will get hot if not a lot of water flowing around them. Just a little more food for thought good luck. Bill %)

mine would do what youre saying untill i put shucks brass?? radiator in my bronco. now she runs 180-190 for the most part. you have an auto tranny by chance? if so may check into a external cooler. ( that will be added to mine sometime this year)

I also read a suggestion to install a smaller waterpump pully, to get the waterpump to turn faster. My waterpump pully is the same diameter as my crank pully, and my 351 does start to heat up at low speeds. This will be my next cooling mod.

In Hawaii I used a product that got very good reviews in FourWheeler Mag. It is called "Be-Cool" by Problend. It made a significant change in my temps in my aluminum block Mercedes and my Bronco.

It is NOT considered an additive so does NOT cause warranty issues.

It is available at Schucks/Kragen/Checkers and I think Autozone also.

Botton line: IT WORKS (drops 30 to 40) on the gauge.

hth,

Mick

Been mentioned before but try straight water, no antifreeze(if your climate allowes) with a bottle of Redline water wetter. Should bring it down some.
I also had a high effency 3 core radiator built for me that made a big difference. I had them move the upper hose to the passenger side to get around the AC unit, but the biggest difference was that I had them put in baffles so that the water would have to flow through the entire radiator.

Have the system checked for combustion pressure. You may have a leaking head gaskit. I once thought i was having an overheating issue and it ended up being pressure overload from the head gaskit. the engine leaked compression and slowly built up pressure untill the cap popped. At 210-230 with antifreeze and a 16lb pressure cap you shouldnt be boiling over.

Id do a leakdown test and look for bubbles in the radiator. Sounds like blown head gasket to me too or dare I say it something cracked. See if theres coolant on any of the spark plugs first. Take them out when its hot and spin it over and see if theres coolant in the cylinders. Theres something wrong inside Im afraid

You didn't say how many miles were on the motor. My 351W has around 95,000 miles on it. It did the same thing. I bought a fan shroud, changed thermostats, ran no thermostats, changed radiators, changed fans ( stock seven blade,flex fan),added a overflow bottle. Then an old timer said to replace the timing chain. He kept pestering me to try it. The engine ran great and used no oil. So I tried it. At the same time, of course, I replaced the water pump ( It had about 20,000 miles on it). The chain was definitely stretched. It had alot of play. Now it doesn't heat up and runs smoother at idle.
Just a thought.

Have the heads been off it? if so the head gaskets may have been installed wrong.

My rigs do this too, they both run 170 on the street and 210 on the trail. Just shows the fan isn't pulling enough on mine, but I don't have fan shrouds yet.

Have you looked in the tech section at the 351 cooling tips? I know you have a 302 but it should work the same. ( correct me if I'm wrong guys) My Brother has a 351 W in his 67 Mustang. He had heating problems sitting in traffic on the freeway and we did this mod and it made a big difference.

Seems to be a usual story, fine on road but overheats off road.
I have a 2" body lift so I purchased a fan shroud thats fits it.
This made a huge difference along with a 7 blade fan. With an extra 2 blades it will pull more air through the radiator going slow. I've been looking for a smaller pully wheel for the fan but have no luck. Anyone know of a manufacturer, vehicle or web site I can search into?

Here's some photos of the rear intake where you can drill and tap a fitting in both sides to allow water to pass through the rear area of the motor and up to a T into the heater hose. Works great, this is my next mod...

Yup, I think everyone covered it. Same problem with my 351W I had installed. I did the intake cross-over mod, 4-core radiator, fan shroud, 7-blade Derale fixed pitch fan and it still got hot. Then I remembered someone said to check my waterpump pulley to ensure it's smaller than my crank pulley. Sure enough, my waterpump pulley was larger by about 3/4". After about a month of searching, I found one that would work. PRESTO! Cooling issues solved.