Red Label 68 4.6 Terminator Powered Bronco

houseofdiesel · Jan 2, 2010

New start, new thread, new name. Same plan just bit off more than I can chew right now. 4V accessory setup is retarded. Using a 2V or 3V would be a snap compared to this. As far as the motor I have to have some custom mounting for the alternator and do some frame notching still to clear my steering. Oh well it's the way things go when your re inventing the wheel. At least looking at things with the rear under it it all is starting to make since. Now it's just some cutting and fabing for the motor and t case then just connecting the dots. Oh and custom up headers to clear the frame.

1968 Ford Bronco
2003 4.6 SVT Motor
Art Carr C6
Stak 3 Speed T Case
2004 SuperDuty Front and Rear Axles
42" GTR Kevlars
17" Raceline Monster Beadlocks
Detroit Rear
E Locker Front
3 Link Front
4 Link Rear
Coilover Front
Hybrid Nitro Rear

YouTube - Red Label Build Compelation Update

houseofdiesel · Jan 2, 2010

houseofdiesel · Jan 2, 2010

TTTGOWYO · Jan 2, 2010

wow, I will be following this one.. Looks awesome..

farnorthdan · Jan 2, 2010

Bronco on steroids.....Awesome...can't wait to see you shoehorn that one in.

DS

blackbeauty · Jan 2, 2010

Holy Sawzall Batman, thats a lot of cutting. I cant wait see it completed. Thats going to be one badazz ride!

houseofdiesel · Jan 2, 2010

farnorthdan said:
Bronco on steroids.....Awesome...can't wait to see you shoehorn that one in.

DS

Shoehorn to say the least. You have to really have your mind made up to do something this far outside the box.

So, I got the front axle under it and the drive flange is directly under the frame rail. So I'm going to use 2/3 of a spare frame I had in the back yard. So the piece laying next to the rig is the piece I'll use to step it out. The front is going to come up another 1" to 2"s, and I'll tube all the lower edges. As for the wheel wells I plan on opening them 2" across the tops and 3"-4" on the sides.

Revelation · Jan 2, 2010

Looks like tons of fun.
Did the motor hit the grill on the way in?

barronj · Jan 2, 2010

That's so crunched I would think they were lowering the forklift & didn't quite clear the grill.

houseofdiesel · Jan 3, 2010

Revelation said:
Looks like tons of fun.
Did the motor hit the grill on the way in?

Honestly......I got called in the house while we (my 17 year old son, 17 year old shop hand, and I) were pulling the motor and trans back out after seeing how everything fit. Well when we put it in we had the T case on, but pulled it off while in cause the Tcase was hitting the frame. Well my son didn't notice the trans was scraping its way up the tunnel as the shop hand was backing up the fork lift. As soon as the tail of the trans cleared the tunnel, wallah the motor turned into a gymnast and did an endo out of the engine bay onto the floor. Luckily all it screwed up was the charger pulley wheel and possibly shaft and I was planning on having it bored and rebuilt anyways. Last time I leave those two alone.

sprdv1 · Jan 3, 2010

Sweet looking rig...!

br0nc0xrapt0r · Jan 3, 2010

sprdv1 said:
Sweet looking rig...!

Oh no you will not taint such an awesome thread with your post whorish ways!

House there is obviously no way those axles/tires are gonna work like that so how much are you going to dovetail out of the front and back? I would imagine that with a tire size that big your designing a mostly down travel suspension.

bax · Jan 3, 2010

Instead of the planed frame alterations, how about making the frame wider. Cut it down the middle and make it wider. Body mounts can be rebuilt pretty easy.

houseofdiesel · Jan 3, 2010

bax said:
Instead of the planed frame alterations, how about making the frame wider. Cut it down the middle and make it wider. Body mounts can be rebuilt pretty easy.

For the front I don't have a choice I need the room and it solves a lot of issues as far as the motor and the suspension. As for the rear I need to keep the rear narrow. I want to keep the struts outside the frame, due to wanting to retain the rear seat, and plan on getting 60% of my articulation from back there too, so it makes more since and works out better to keep the rear narrow.

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
Oh no you will not taint such an awesome thread with your post whorish ways!

House there is obviously no way those axles/tires are gonna work like that so how much are you going to dovetail out of the front and back? I would imagine that with a tire size that big your designing a mostly down travel suspension.

No dovetails. I want to retain as much under hood are and cab space as possible. It is going to be a mostly down travel system. I built a one link Sami on 37"s that was very similar to the way I'm setting this one up and it worked nice. My friend got rid of it before I got the opportunity to do the wheel well tubing but even with out that done things cleared well. Things were a lot tighter on that with Toy axles than I'm seeing with this so things should come out nice. There are plenty of Jeeps out there that aren't doved and get around just fine with tube fenders. I plan on being able to throw my kids in and take off for hours on end without having to be scrunched up.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Jan 3, 2010

sounds great I hope to take away a lot of ideas from this then since I have real similar goals for my 69. what coil overs do you plan on using for the front those new ballistic air shock ones look sick and a nice price too.

houseofdiesel · Jan 3, 2010

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
sounds great I hope to take away a lot of ideas from this then since I have real similar goals for my 69. what coil overs do you plan on using for the front those new ballistic air shock ones look sick and a nice price too.

Those do look sweet, but I grabbed a set of King Piggy Backs and a set of Fox Piggy Backs last year for super cheap, brand new so I'm going to try to use one of them.

houseofdiesel · Jan 4, 2010

Well lets see, it was a productive weekend. Threw on the new motor mounts, remote oil filter setup, and got the frame in and laid out. I noticed some gaps in the slipped frame rail while I was prepping the it so I filled them while it was out. I'm a novice welder so go easy on me. lol Plan is to saddle it from the bottom and up both side, and then plate the top and the joints. For the passenger side I'm only going to run the frame rail about a foot into the cab to stagger my joints and not have joints directly across from each other. Looks like it's going to lay things out nicely. I'll be able to get the motor a little lower and further back and have to do a lot less work. I'm going to make sure I take my time laying out the crossmembers and steering to try and avoid issues further along in the build. Moveing the frame rails out is making it tight for the coilover setup, but laying out the links, driveline, exhaust, and other stuff will be way easier. It's definitely worth the extra work. Only thing I'm pounding my head on is how to move the Power Steering box forward. I have it all the way tight to the inner grill support and body mount, and I probably need another 3" to 4"s for the pitman arm to line up right with the steering. I read an article tonight in 4 Wheel Drive though were they made the pitman arm like a boomerang to retain the full steering radius. I have to figure it out before I weld in and drill the new front crossmember. Oh well, the plan for the next week or so is to get the passenger frame rail in, get body mounts back on, order and install new fluid damper/crank pulley, layout new alternator mounting, and get everything back in to start laying out motor mount/crossmember, trans mount crossmember, and steering.

dnewman9 · Jan 4, 2010

subscribing for sure!

br0nc0xrapt0r · Jan 5, 2010

looks pretty good, any reason you decided not to just tube the front to accommodate the motor? or is your trying to keep it as bronco as possible.

houseofdiesel · Jan 5, 2010

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
looks pretty good, any reason you decided not to just tube the front to accommodate the motor? or is your trying to keep it as bronco as possible.

Bronco as possible. Plus slapping in the cross members, already having bolt holes, and locations for somethings is going to make it go a lot faster.

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