Dash Destruction and Reconstruction

Since I'm redoing my dash myself, I figured I'd start documenting it here and sharing with ya'll. No, not going to be an exciting thread to follow but maybe someone will get some ideas from what they see or learn by my mistakes and trust me, I'm sure there will be a lot of lessons... lol ;D My metal working skills are limited so it won't be fancy but it'll look better than before and be functional.

My plan is to basiclly gut the dash with the exception of the far left side (steering column and speedo holes). With everything out of the middle, I'll be free to arrange things as I wish. I've already figured out that the heater controls and speedo can't be moved far at all so they will stay within a few inches of their original positions.

The plan is to make a overlay out of 1/8" diamondplate that will tuck under the lip of the dash pad and wrap down to the bottom of the dash where it will attach via piano hinge. That way I'll be able to flip the dash down to access wiring, fuses etc. once everything is done. The speedo and heater control sections of the dash won't have the room to flip down because of the cables so they will be mounted rigid. The aluminum I'm using is actually scrap I've had laying around for just such an occasion. If I splurge on anything, I'll have it powdercoated black when I finish it.

I've got plans in my head for a glove box and don't plan to use the factory one but I've cut out and saved the frame just in case. Same for the cell phone holder/coin tray (ashtray).

After removing the dash I marked a line for reference while cutting. I cut out the glove box frame and kept the mounting holes for the factory switches and controls in tact for reference to spacing, size, etc. My trusty angle grinder/cutoff wheel was the tool of destruction.

To get an idea of what will go where, I made a template out of cardboard the same size as the face of the dash. With moveable pieces, I can rearrange as much as I like until I find the configuration I want.

Ignition (not shown) will be moved in closer to the column with the headlight and wiper switches above it. The black frames on the bottom/center will be the bezels for my rocker switches. The plastic Jagermeister cups represent my oil and water temp gauges. Quarters are heater controls. The radio locationa hasn't been decided for sure yet, it may go in the glove box or be replaced with a MP3 player since I wouldn't be able to reach it way over there while driving. The 12v outlet will go either to the right of the heater controls or at the top of the dash next to the speedo - or one in each location so I have one for general use and then one out of the way for my GPS.

Ideas or suggestions?

I think that's a great idea with the fold down access point to the wires and what not.

I have a question though - and you aren't the first to do it - why put the radio all the way to the passenger side like that? How do you operate the player when you are driving alone? (I know there are remotes and what not) How do you replace a CD?

Just curious, don't mean to offend or anything.

Also, what are the grilles for in the bottom center? AC/Heat?

PolarrrBearrr said:

I think that's a great idea with the fold down access point to the wires and what not.

I have a question though - and you aren't the first to do it - why put the radio all the way to the passenger side like that? How do you operate the player when you are driving alone? (I know there are remotes and what not) How do you replace a CD?

Just curious, don't mean to offend or anything.

Also, what are the grilles for in the bottom center? AC/Heat?

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No offense at all! I really don't want the radio over there because as you say, I won't be able to reach it. I may stash it in the glove box I'm designing and use a remote or just use a small MP3 player that could mount within reach. The jury is still out on that one.

The grills you see are actually the bezels for my rocker switches. I just took the switches out of them during mock up.

Sounds like a good plan bro..!

The trouble with diamond plate is getting the gauges and other controls to sit flat on the dash. The raised part will not let them sit evenly unless you grind down the raised part to the outside of the gauge bezel.

subscribed - looking forward to seeing how you do the hinge thing. Thats what I'm planning on doing when I get around to re-doing my dash.

msweb said:

The grills you see are actually the bezels for my rocker switches. I just took the switches out of them during mock up.

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where did you get your bezels- i was going to make some but those look slick. also what switches are you using and have you had good luck with them?

PS i like how the speedo is pegged at 140 ;D, must be KMH? LOL

here is a thread when I redid my dash
I used 16 gauge sheet metal, then powdercoated the overlay. I then used rivet nuts instead of a hinge

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111784

could give you some ideas

deltarat said:

The trouble with diamond plate is getting the gauges and other controls to sit flat on the dash. The raised part will not let them sit evenly unless you grind down the raised part to the outside of the gauge bezel.

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Yeah, it's going to be a PITA but I'm going to grimd each tread by hand with my Dremel to get this flush. Biggest reason I went with the DP is because I already had a piece at the house.

DanWheeler said:

subscribed - looking forward to seeing how you do the hinge thing. Thats what I'm planning on doing when I get around to re-doing my dash.

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Tell me about it, I'm still trying to figure it out myself. What I have planned is pretty simple and straight forward but it never happens that way... Time will tell!

Bundy said:

where did you get your bezels- i was going to make some but those look slick. also what switches are you using and have you had good luck with them?

PS i like how the speedo is pegged at 140 ;D, must be KMH? LOL

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I found them on Ebay, seller's name is "syn-ind". Very nice guy and more than fair prices. The bezels are slick, well made and powder coated. The switches are Carling switches. Real nice but no labeling to the poles so it's going to be a guessing game. I haven't tried them yet but they seem to have a good reputation and are weatherproof.

DonsBolt said:

here is a thread when I redid my dash
I used 16 gauge sheet metal, then powdercoated the overlay. I then used rivet nuts instead of a hinge
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111784
could give you some ideas

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link and VERY slick dash! I'm basically going to do the same thing except for two pieces. Was the only reason you did the glove box as a seperate piece for eas of working with it? How did the dimpling go for the switches? That's one thing I haven't figured out yet and with 1/8" aluminum, I don't know how that method would work but it does sound like a good idea. Does it have to be dimpled?

How did you hinge your dash and how'd the lock mechanism work out? I want to make one that pushes in to release but haven't figured it out yet.

What did the powder coating run ya? I want to do mine only because I don't want to be blinded when the sun hits it... If affordable enough, I'll do my door panels to match (they're already DP).

I cut out my dash and welded some 1/4x1 flat that I drilled and tapped around the edge of the hole. I can remove that section to get to the wiring. I wish I had cut out the entire dash and made panels for it all. I may change it later.

A combination of the hinge and riv-nut ideas would be sweet. Hinge on bottom; insert swings up to a flanged recess; secure with several SS button head screws into the riv-nuts.

Since you are going with aluminum, consider machining a set of angled gauge mounts to tilt the gauges toward the driver. Increase the angle of the mount for the further away gauges.

Save the space of a radio and just go to an MP3 dock and hidden amp. Radios and CDs are just so yesterday!

Just a few thoughts; keep us posted.

deltarat said:

I cut out my dash and welded some 1/4x1 flat that I drilled and tapped around the edge of the hole. I can remove that section to get to the wiring. I wish I had cut out the entire dash and made panels for it all. I may change it later.

Click to expand...

That looks nice and dang, I want that center console! How did ya move the glove box? Cut it out and weld back in? Thats what Iw anted to do but I know I can't weld that thin stuff and make it all look smooth again... %)

W650Mike said:

A combination of the hinge and riv-nut ideas would be sweet. Hinge on bottom; insert swings up to a flanged recess; secure with several SS button head screws into the riv-nuts.

Since you are going with aluminum, consider machining a set of angled gauge mounts to tilt the gauges toward the driver. Increase the angle of the mount for the further away gauges.

Save the space of a radio and just go to an MP3 dock and hidden amp. Radios and CDs are just so yesterday!

Just a few thoughts; keep us posted.

Click to expand...

I like the idea of the riv-nuts but not gonna buy the tool just for that. Hmmm... May have to see if I can find one though. that'd be a lot nicer than using self tappers like I was plannign on.

Good idea with the angling of the gauges. Wonder if I could cut some bezels out of exhaust tubing??? Hmmm.........

msweb said:

Thanks for the link and VERY slick dash! I'm basically going to do the same thing except for two pieces. Was the only reason you did the glove box as a seperate piece for ease of working with it? Yes just for the ease of working with it

How did the dimpling go for the switches? That's one thing I haven't figured out yet and with 1/8" aluminum, I don't know how that method would work but it does sound like a good idea. Does it have to be dimpled? The only one I dimpled was the wiper switch, other than that no need to dimple any others. I just used a spare lug nut on the outside, a bigger socket behind, stuck a nut/bolt through. and tightened it up till it made the dimple

How did you hinge your dash and how'd the lock mechanism work out? I want to make one that pushes in to release but haven't figured it out yet.
My dash isn't hinged, just rivit nuts holding it to the dash, the glove box is held shut with two magnetic sprung loaded latches from Lowes

What did the powder coating run ya? I want to do mine only because I don't want to be blinded when the sun hits it... If affordable enough, I'll do my door panels to match (they're already DP).
Was around 75-100 bucks, I forget what I paid

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hope that helps

DonsBolt said:

hope that helps

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It does, thanks. I meant to ask how the glove box was hinged since it looks like the hinges may have been sandwiched between the original dash and the overlay. Springloaded magnets from Lowes - I'll be there when I get my piano hinge and will look for them!

Glad the only dimple needed was for the wiper switch. It'll be tough with the 1/8" but I'm looking forward to trying it ;D

You can set riv-nuts with a grade 8 (or higher tensile) bolt, washer, and nut. It's slow but if you're only doing a couple - not too bad.

msweb said:

That looks nice and dang, I want that center console! How did ya move the glove box? Cut it out and weld back in? Thats what Iw anted to do but I know I can't weld that thin stuff and make it all look smooth again... %)

Click to expand...

You don't have to dimple the switches. Just grind out the holes to the diameter of the widest part of the taper and the switch will center itself. Just enlarge it slowly until the bezel sits flat with on the dash.

I cut out the glove box and moved it over and welded a panel to fill the hole on the right. The weld does not make it smooth, a grinder does. If it is not smooth grind it down and try again. Take it slow and skip around when welding and grind slowly too. When I first started, I was warping the metal by grinding it down too fast. I never welded thin sheet metal until about 2 years ago when I started this project.I had never even used a mig.

The center console isn't that hard. Take some cardboard and make you a pattern. It is easier to trim and if you mess up, throw it away and start again
I used 1x1 tubing in the corners to screw the sheet metal to,but it is a little too thin a wall. I drilled and tapped it, but the screw try to strip do to the thin wall.

Hope this helps.

It all helps, thanks!

My welder is a flux core which means less than pretty welds. Hopefully my idea for the glove box will work, time will tell. Good tip on the switch mounting and the console. After I build my overhead, it'll be next on the list!

No progress on the dash today other than buying a piano hinge and magnetic latches today. Dang shower/toilet backed up in the house which means the main line has a blockage somewhere. Tomorrow is going to be fun......

Ok, I'm finally working on it again. Wound up going with 16 gauge steel bent to conform to the dash. Will be in three sections. One to the left of the steering wheel and two to the right. far left and far right won't be hinged due to the rollbar.

More pics as more progress comes!

Ok, more progress today and in a big way. I notched the overlay to fit the dash. It fits great and the bend is perfect. Next I tacked the piano hinge to the overlay and attached it to the dash with a few self tappers for a "test fit". It works perfect!

After patting myself on the back, I removed the overlay and cut the hole for the steering column. I still need to drill the two holes to access the bolts that hold the column in.

Then, since I decided I'm going with all aftermarket gauges (Autometer Sport Comp Series), I cut out the remaining section of the original dash so I have room to put some other goodies on that side. I'm waiting for gauges to arrive now and in the mean time will build a center console that will come down from the dash to the trans tunnel. It'll be a simple design and will house speakers and some gauges. More soon!