D44 expert needed

Rox Crusher · May 17, 2010

I am re-assembling my D44 and need some specific help

1. Which way should the "torque prevailing" nut be oriented on the lower ball joint ? It has 3 little dimples on one side that essentially crushes the first thread. Do the dimples go first or last ?

2. My axle shafts have a stone guard and v-seal which are easy enough to figure out. However, there is also a phenolic spacer and a small lip seal that fits behind the v-seal and tight to the shaft and I need to know how these two items should be installed. The old ones are all beat to hell and I couldn't figure it out by looking at them.

That's all for now but I am sure I will need more help.

Broncobowsher · May 17, 2010

Dimples go last. Start the nut with good threads. Dimples often bugger up the threads, so only messing up the last couple is prefered

The spacer is either plastic or some old original ones are brass. The inside has a chamfer on only one side. That goes against the U-joint on the axle. When you are done you will find a sharp 90° corner is formed between the spacer and the axle shaft.
[side note; this is a simple engineering fix. The seal works best with a sharp 90° corner. But a sharp corner is a stress riser that would be a failure point for the axle. So the axle is made with a little radius in it. This takes out the stress riser and makes the axle stronger. Then teh spacer goes on to fix the problem created by the repair]
The little seal goes into the end of the spindle against the spindle bearings. The big seal is a rock/dust preventer, the little seal is to try and keep water out of the spindle bearings.

Rox Crusher · May 17, 2010

Broncobowsher said:
The little seal goes into the end of the spindle against the spindle bearings. The big seal is a rock/dust preventer, the little seal is to try and keep water out of the spindle bearings.

which way does the little seal go ?

lip towards the needle bearing ?

thanks again for the help

Broncitis · May 17, 2010

The lip faces the needle bearing

Broncobowsher · May 17, 2010

This is actually debated. There is a lip but I have heard it agrued both ways. Some say it goes in, others say it goes out. I have never seen a good detailed parts diagram that truely shows which way it goes. I have also heard some say it is for keeping the grease in, but mostly for keeping water out (that the big dust seal can't do).

I would love to see some true documentation (Ford, Dana, GM, etc.) that really shows how it is designed to go. Stuff I have taken apart is a mixed bag (and I usually forget to check as well).

Rox Crusher · May 22, 2010

Is there a seal where the shaft goes into the pumpkin ?

If so, how does a redneck like me change it out ?

Viperwolf1 · May 22, 2010

There is a seal on both sides just outside of the differential. The only way to change them is to remove the axle shafts and the differential. If the shafts are already out you're almost there. The diff is held in by 4 bolts and two bearing caps. If you remove them you need to be very careful to mark the exact position they and the bearing cups came from and put them back the same way. The diff is under some compression as it sits in there so it will take some careful work to get it out and back in.

The seals are pressed in from the inside. Use something long to knock them out from the outter tube. I've used a thick piece of threaded rod as a makeshift press to install new seals.

Rox Crusher · May 22, 2010

Viperwolf1 said:
The diff is under some compression as it sits in there so it will take some careful work to get it out and back in.

special tools required to take the diff out / put in back in ?

Viperwolf1 · May 22, 2010

The right way to do it is with a case spreader but I've done it without.

br0nc0xrapt0r · May 22, 2010

Yes the right way is with a housing spreader but it can also be done by putting a rag in between the pinion and ring gear then by spinning the pinion gear it forces out the carrier. A seal puller should be used to get the inner axle seal out but some ingenuity can be used to make said tool out of some big washers and a rod.

Rox Crusher · Oct 16, 2010

Update

I decided to take a chance and put this thing back together without changing the inner seals (I was intimidated with the thought of messing up the diff)..................and low and behold they leak ever so slightly............no big deal right ?...............until the pinion seal decided to give way like a breached levy.

I was going to just replace the pinion seal................but we discovered that the pinion bearing was beyond loose.

So myself and Kinder decided to tear the whole thing down, which went very smoothly.

A BIG THANKS TO KIRK for his help.

Here's where I need some more expert help.

I am going to replace all the bearings and seals and I am wondering what the best procedure is for removing the bearing races without scoring up the bores in the housing, etc.

Thanks in advance !

Rox Crusher · Oct 17, 2010

anyone ?

Viperwolf1 · Oct 17, 2010

I'd just use a drift and a hammer. You can use a brass drift but if you're careful a steel drift is fine.

D44 expert needed

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru

Attachments

Broncobowsher

Total hack

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru

Broncitis

MEB Founder

Broncobowsher

Total hack

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru

Viperwolf1

electron whisperer

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru

Viperwolf1

electron whisperer

br0nc0xrapt0r

Loves pickles

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru

Rox Crusher

Bronco Guru

Viperwolf1

electron whisperer

Similar threads