How to quiet the hard top?

strider · Sep 13, 2010

I couldn't find a single thread on this and I'm tired of looking around.

Has anyone found a good way to make the hard top on an EB quiet? The half cab had carpet all-around on the interior so this thing was 2010 quiet before I pulled the half cab and carpet. Now, with the full hard top it is literally louder than it was with no top at all. I know that I need a new front seal, but this thing amplifies every noise to be found.

LineX, carpet, anything?

garberz · Sep 13, 2010

Just get rid of it, and get a soft top. That's what we all do.

Pa PITT · Sep 13, 2010

So tell me where all your half cab had carpet .. I've been thinking of putting carpet in the top of my 1/2 cab.

suckerpunched · Sep 13, 2010

I have seen lots of articles in the street rod magazines for sound deadeners and and insulation. both glue on and spray on ceramics. I think I will do both when I get to that point. I did a web search and came up with a bunch of stuff. here is just one http://www.lobucrod.com/

Stroppe-Envy-77 · Sep 13, 2010

Does your hardtop have the fiberboard headliner? If not, that's a good place to start.

Once you have a headliner in place, there's a good 1"+ space between it and the metal of the roof. So, a nice thick layer of insulation will help muffle noise as well. I bought a roll of stuff at Pep Boys that's about 1/4" thick material (almost like tightly compacted dryer lint) with a layer of heavy foil-type mylar on one side. I think it's called Thermoshield or something like that.

To my surprise, I found that the previous owner had glued a somwhat dense foam insulation to the underside of the roof, but there was still plenty of room for the additional insulation. I just cut pieces to size and slid them up there.

My interior is now extra quiet (for a Bronco anyway), though I now hear wind noise and other sounds more clearly.

Steve83 · Sep 14, 2010

Frank can make a speakerphone call from his '75, and the other person doesn't even know he's on speaker - much less in a 35-y-o vehicle doing 70mph.

.

The more soft surfaces you add, the less the noise will bounce around in there with you.

blubuckaroo · Sep 14, 2010

You don't need the high priced foil backed stuff for the top. The temperatures aren't high enough to require it. The 1/2" thick styrofoam at Home Depot works great. Cut it to fit between the reinforcing ribs in the top. Attach the foam pieces to the top with spray glue and put the headliner back in. It stops the oil-can rumble and makes it cooler too.

NM Bronco · Sep 14, 2010

Steve I am installing the same carpet your photos show...i really am unsure how to fit the fender wells better....can you share how you did it? Thanks and a great looking restoration.

Steve83 · Sep 14, 2010

Did you read the captions in that album? They didn't fit perfectly, but they're OK. I tried them several ways until I found the best fit, then cut slits to fit over the bedwall mounting tabs to hold the wheelwell carpets in-place, and the bedwall panels pinch the carpet in a few places. The exposed edges of the DynaMat help glue it down, but it's still removeable for cleaning.

NM Bronco · Sep 14, 2010

thanks for the tips. I am not yet sure which side fits where.. i did not think to leave them removable for cleaning.. good idea on your part. I did read the text but in person they covers seem more bulky than i expected. Your build looks great. thanks again.

surfer-b · Sep 14, 2010

I used the B-quit, then the double-foil carpet pad from Summit on top of that, I also used spray foam in the ribs of the top, just be sure and use the door and window so it want expand too much, this will keep the top from popping when going down the road. Here is a pic before the double-foil pad was installed.

strider · Sep 15, 2010

Thanks everyone, I don't have a headliner at all yet. I plan to do LineX on the floors for summer when the top will be off anyway. That'll be covered in the spring and fall when it's chilly enough for the hard top (I like the change-up in looks).

On the inside of the top I think I'll start my search for a headliner and it'll be backed up with the bquiet mat AND modern automotive shotty pad which is used in doors and behind carpet for sound deadening. For some reason a headliner just never seemed like a good fit...

Regarding the carpet on my half-cab, it literally covered every inch of the inside. There were cardboard panels to close-out the areas behind the windows of the doors. These panels had speakers and upholstery. The bulkhead had auto carpet glued in place, the ceiling had/has a headliner with upholstery.

It's ugly material, but it was amazingly quiet.

mlaird · Sep 16, 2010

i didnt want to glue anything down on my original floors so i bought this stuff to put under the carpet and it works WONDERS with sound deadening and heat. all of the little rattles and stuff that used to drive me crazy are now gone. Very easy to cut and its very inexpensive as well. $50 worth would easily do the top and all of the tub and doors as well. its essentially a chrome looking heat barrier with jute padding underneath

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Justafordguy · Sep 16, 2010

That looks just like the stuff I bought from Summit for $45 a roll. I'll have to go see if our Home Depot has it in stock.

HoosierDaddy · Sep 16, 2010

In short , as mentioned by Steve83 , doing a good job of trying to thermally insulate these things and using soft finish materials will go a long long ways to making these quiet (and thermally efficent too boot).

I researched this a fair amount. The amount of insulation needed to absorb the noise frequencys these things make while going down the road is in the order of 8 to 10 inches of insulation.
The most effective approach is a sound barrier , typically Mass Loaded Vinyl , MLV , basically a thin foam/rubber matting. This can be found with an insulative material already bonded together , in various weights. Obviously , the heavier the better. The insulative layer is used to seperate the MLV from the vehicle body , which helps the MLV work a lot better.
It used to be that a thin layer of lead was the best thing for a sound barrier , that has changed with the advent of MLV , which is extremely close to lead in its capabilities and MUCH cheaper. Not to mention healthier ...

http://shop3.mailordercentral.com/supersoundproofing/

http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/soundbarriers.html

http://www.b-quiet.com/index.html

http://www.fatmat.com/

http://www.soundproofcow.com/sound-deadening/sound-deadening-material.html

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

jeffmo · Sep 16, 2010

I just found some duct wrap at Home Depot for a buck a square foot. Roughly 10 time cheaper than dynomat. It is 1/8" thick and is self adhering. No clue if it will make a dent in noise, but not too big of one on the wallet. I am going to give it a shot.

Steve83 · Sep 16, 2010

Post before & after pics.

HoosierDaddy · Sep 17, 2010

If you want to know more than what most people want to hear about sound dampening check this site out : http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

jbawall · Sep 17, 2010

This is a good thread, I am going to keep an eye on it. I love the great amount of information on this website! Keep it coming!

SteveL · Sep 17, 2010

mine only makes noise when critters land on it in the yard.

How to quiet the hard top?

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