393W Transformation Thread

EricLar80 · Dec 5, 2010

So, I bit the bullet and bought a 351W from a 1996 Ford E150 Van from a local salvage yard. The thing was COVERED! in grease and they said it wasn't running. I wanted the roller block EFI, and this seemed like a good enough deal here in the Los Angeles area.

The goal is to transform it into a 393W with EFI.

The engine in the back of my Tacoma:

Note to self, need to buy an engine stand...

Yep, its a roller:

Cylinders look pretty good, but they will be bored and honed anyway.

They measured out at 4.010", so they must have honed it before; hopefully they left the bottom end alone:

For good measure, I bought a GT40 lower intake off ebay:

Anybody looking for any of the bolt ons that are to come off? Otherwise, they will go in the trash...

More to come...

Eric

Madgyver · Dec 6, 2010

What stroker kit are you planning on getting?

Bronco_69 · Dec 6, 2010

dont build a 393. for the same $$ you can have a 408 or 418w. why go 393?

EricLar80 · Dec 6, 2010

Madgyver said:
What stroker kit are you planning on getting?

I plan on using the stock connecting rods and buying the 22cc dish 1.608" height KB pistons with a scat crank. Do you have any suggestions for parts?

dont build a 393. for the same $$ you can have a 408 or 418w. why go 393?

The cost of a kit is the same between a 393 and a 408/418, but a 393 is about $500 less if you use your stock connecting rods and piece it together. Once I get the rods out of the block, if I see issue and have to buy new rods anyway, then I'll consider the 408.

If I end up having to go with a kit, what is everybody's suggestion. I plan on running about 9-9.5 compression. I have not decided on heads yet, so advice there would be great too...

I want to get back to it and get everything torn apart, but I am in China this week on business. Maybe I can get a knockoff stoker kit while I'm here... %)

Eric

EricLar80 · Dec 6, 2010

Does anybody in the Los Angeles area have a suggestion for a good engine machine shop? I would like to have the deck machining and rotating assembly balancing done; the assembly I think I am going to attempt myself.

Eric

needabronco · Dec 6, 2010

I know a guy in Kingman AZ that I would recommend if your willing to take a drive? That's the closest I can get for you....

mattt · Dec 7, 2010

You might consider posting up the serp setup on Corral. I sold my truck serp setup to someone there for ~$200. There are many 351 cars with v-belts that would love a bolt on serp setup. Intake is probably a hard sell...what else?

Nightstick · Dec 7, 2010

Good luck with the motor, sounds like it'll be pretty sweet. Remember though, do it right the first time.

recoiljunky · Dec 7, 2010

EricLar80 said:
I plan on using the stock connecting rods and buying the 22cc dish 1.608" height KB pistons with a scat crank. Do you have any suggestions for parts?

The cost of a kit is the same between a 393 and a 408/418, but a 393 is about $500 less if you use your stock connecting rods and piece it together. Once I get the rods out of the block, if I see issue and have to buy new rods anyway, then I'll consider the 408.

If I end up having to go with a kit, what is everybody's suggestion. I plan on running about 9-9.5 compression. I have not decided on heads yet, so advice there would be great too...

I want to get back to it and get everything torn apart, but I am in China this week on business. Maybe I can get a knockoff stoker kit while I'm here... %)

Eric

That's what I did. I went ahead and had the rotating assembly balanced for 50oz so that I could use a factory Explorer dampener and serpentine set up.

I'm running Edelbrock RPM heads and RPM Airgap intake, Comp Cams roller rockers and cam. It's pushing 9.5 to 1 compression and it's a beast.

JDJ · Dec 7, 2010

I will second that for Recoiljunky. He took me for a ride in that monster he calls a bronco......the power, torque, and acceleration it has....reminds me of my '88 5.0L coupe mustang that has several bolt on upgrades and set up for drag racing.

Recoil's truck/monster is pretty sweeeetttt!

JDJ

mcdobson · Dec 7, 2010

Don't buy pistons before you know what heads you are going to run. The combustion chambers of the heads will determine the piston to buy.

EricLar80 · Dec 7, 2010

Thanks for the tips, everybody.

I was thinking about getting it balanced for 50oz so that I could run the explorer stuff. I currently run the mustang front serp dress, but this is a good time for a change, Any difficulties going from 3g to 4g on the alternator in terms of wiring?

Reminds me - can someone remind me what the original application is for the 90 degree thermo housing to work with serp?

For heads, I know I can get the combustion chamber to be 64cc from many different companies with many different combinations of specs, so I am not too worried about CR.

Thanks again,

Eric

recoiljunky · Dec 8, 2010

Thanks JDJ. Yeah, I don't think the OP will be disappointed with a 393.

coby · Dec 8, 2010

Pony up and get stronger/longer con rods.....take it from someone that had a con rod let go in a hot 351W build; it's insurance.

EricLar80 said:
I plan on using the stock connecting rods and buying the 22cc dish 1.608" height KB pistons with a scat crank. Do you have any suggestions for parts?

The cost of a kit is the same between a 393 and a 408/418, but a 393 is about $500 less if you use your stock connecting rods and piece it together. Once I get the rods out of the block, if I see issue and have to buy new rods anyway, then I'll consider the 408.

If I end up having to go with a kit, what is everybody's suggestion. I plan on running about 9-9.5 compression. I have not decided on heads yet, so advice there would be great too...

I want to get back to it and get everything torn apart, but I am in China this week on business. Maybe I can get a knockoff stoker kit while I'm here... %)

Eric

EricLar80 · Dec 8, 2010

coby said:
Pony up and get stronger/longer con rods.....take it from someone that had a con rod let go in a hot 351W build; it's insurance.

So, when you have a longer connecting rod, does that mean you have to have a shorter compression height piston?

Eric

coby · Dec 8, 2010

EricLar80 said:
So, when you have a longer connecting rod, does that mean you have to have a shorter compression height piston?

Eric

Longer is relative, of course. But yea...you have to compensate in the piston. I used Ross ultralight forged pistons, and they have a high pin location. Worked out great.

coby · Dec 8, 2010

http://www.performanceunlimited.com/backdoor/crankshafts.html

This might help.

recoiljunky · Dec 8, 2010

Your machinist should be able to tell you if your connecting rods are any good. If they are, I'm sure he'll recommend new ARP studs to go in them. In a 6500 rpm max motor, that should be plenty.

EricLar80 · Dec 8, 2010

I was thinking of doing this to improve the stock rod strength:
Polishing Connecting Rods Tech Article

Basically, you try and remove the stress risers as much as possible by grinding/polishing the outside surface of the rods:

Anybody done that? I need to get the rotating assembly balanced anyway...

Eric

needabronco · Dec 8, 2010

You likely don't need new rods, if you have to buy aftermarket rods you might as well pony up a few extra buck's and go with a 408! The kits aren't much more money if you go that route. Remeber a 393, uses a stroker crank, stock length rods, and 302 pistons. A 408 uses a slightly longer stroker crank, longer rods, and special 408 pistons...

Stock Ford rods are pretty strong and should handle 500 horsepower and will survive 6500 RPM's, and probably a little NOS. If you plan to run it super hard and regularly abuse the crap out of it, then I'd step up to better rods. Remember, HIPO 298's had regular cast cranks and rods and even had cast pistons in them and they regularly survived 6500 RPM's.... Yes I know the HIPO rods had 3/8" bolts instead of 5/16"s, but other than that they are cast rods...

393W Transformation Thread

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