Raptors EFI swap problems update,IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

Ok I have three problems with my swap so far. On start up I frequently have to unplug the high pressure up and crank it to remove excess fuel. Like it floods out on the first start.

And I have verified the timing 3 times, it's dead on at 10* BTDC, but I have a nasty backfire problem if I hit the gas hard and fast.

Lastly the new oil pressure gauge I got sits at 0 with the key on and in crank but while running it's pegged out at 150 psi.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-122264/overview/]Stewart

Viperwolf1 · Mar 21, 2013

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Sounds like the regulator is stuck.

The oil pressure gauge should have come with a new sender. Did you use it?

KyleQ · Mar 21, 2013

Yup, check fuel pressure and get a mechanical gauge -they sell copper line if you are afraid of the plastic... but its tough as shit as long as it doesn't melt, but you will know if it does, lol.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

I ran the return back from the rail to the high pres feed line. Last night I shut off the lift pump to reduce the pressure and still had the same problem. I am going to add some hose to the return and put it in a catch can and see if it is the problem. If so I'll run a full length return to the filler neck. If not then I will try a new FPR on the rail.

As for the Oil pres I used the stock ford mustang sender that runs to the computer and the input comes out of the harness and into the gauge. I have a sending unit for the guage that came with it I can try too. Also after I posted this I did some more reading and realized I may have made a boo boo by using teflon tape on the sender. Forgive me but I am used to using Mech sending units so I may not be getting a ground on the sending unit.

Viperwolf1 · Mar 21, 2013

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
I ran the return back from the rail to the high pres feed line. Last night I shut off the lift pump to reduce the pressure and still had the same problem. I am going to add some hose to the return and put it in a catch can and see if it is the problem. If so I'll run a full length return to the filler neck. If not then I will try a new FPR on the rail.

As for the Oil pres I used the stock ford mustang sender that runs to the computer and the input comes out of the harness and into the gauge. I have a sending unit for the guage that came with it I can try too. Also after I posted this I did some more reading and realized I may have made a boo boo by using teflon tape on the sender. Forgive me but I am used to using Mech sending units so I may not be getting a ground on the sending unit.

So there really is no return line back to the tank? There's your problem.

Teflon tape isn't causing the gauge problem. The wrong sender range is.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

Viperwolf1 said:
So there really is no return line back to the tank? There's your problem.

Teflon tape isn't causing the gauge problem. The wrong sender range is.

Ok thanks on both accounts Viper and Kyle. Viper as for the sender will the computer be upset if I swap it out?

Viperwolf1 · Mar 21, 2013

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
Ok thanks on both accounts Viper and Kyle. Viper as for the sender will the computer be upset if I swap it out?

Computer doesn't even see any gauge data.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

Viperwolf1 said:
Computer doesn't even see any gauge data.

Great news for me. Ironic but I never swaped the temp sensor either and it works just fine %) I guess it's the luck of the draw that the hard to reach sensor needs to be swapped.

Skiddy · Mar 21, 2013

well at least you are making progress, won't be long now

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

Skiddy said:
well at least you are making progress, won't be long now

Yeah but I don't think snowball begins to tell the story...

I'd get more done tonight but I have a retirement party to go to, bummer.

KyleQ · Mar 21, 2013

Yeah, those wires on the harness go to the dash gauges or warning lights, PCM doesn't care about oil pressure. You could wire up those wires to warning lights easy enough, but meh... if you have oil pressure and good temp who cares about anything else...

You NEED to run your fuel back into the tank, what you have setup now is the route of all of your problems. I ran my return line down the pass side, crossed over at the rear x-member and tapped into the filler neck. I used a lamp repair kit for the threaded tubing, a jamb nut and a 45* brass fitting on the end. Works like a champ and I get the added bonus of being able to see the fuel as it goes back down the neck.

I'm pulling fuel from the tank through a fuel filer with a (i think) F150 frame mounted pump - absoutly NO issues with starvation, will run the tank down until its bone dry. No need for an accumulator- I'm feeding a 351W as well.

Broncobowsher · Mar 21, 2013

I concur. sending unit must match the gauge. computer does not look at oil pressure and has a seperate temp sender then the gauge sender (2 different temp senders in the intake). So the computer does not share any signals except the VSS with the cruise control.

No return, you are dead heading the fuel pump. the pump will not be happy and will not last long. Also your fuel pressure is way too high. Thus your flooding at startup.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

Well I guess I'll pick up about 8 feet of hose for the return on my way out to the party tonight.

KyleQ · Mar 21, 2013

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
Well I guess I'll pick up about 8 feet of hose for the return on my way out to the party tonight.

Rent yourself a bender from Oriley and get the steel line. Run it along the frame, flare the ends and use unions. I used a barb end on each end and make sure to get a box of EFI hose clamps.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

I got some stuff to go into the filler neck but I'll try a T in between the sender and the filter for the lift pump.

Viperwolf1 · Mar 21, 2013

br0nc0xrapt0r said:
I got some stuff to go into the filler neck but I'll try a T in between the sender and the filter for the lift pump.

The T is ok for short-term testing. I wouldn't use it as a permanent solution because the fuel picks up a lot of heat from the engine. Dumping it into the tank disperses the heat out.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 21, 2013

Viperwolf1 said:
The T is ok for short-term testing. I wouldn't use it as a permanent solution because the fuel picks up a lot of heat from the engine. Dumping it into the tank disperses the heat out.

Yep, I just wanted to try it out. Well it is a huge improvement to say the least. No more flooding and no more backfire, I still need to clean it all up. I'm not going to run the return into the tank just yet because I'm building a new tank soon and I'll just plumb one in there.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 24, 2013

I have had it up to here with this POS, the Oil pres sending unit is too big to fit without an adapter to thread into the block. I cannot put it on an extension because of my AC pump. I think I am going to have to try and swap it out for a sending unit that is the same size as the stock one.

br0nc0xrapt0r · Mar 30, 2013

I am at a loss, new Plugs gaped to .035, All connections are secure, it has fuel, it has spark, I hit the idle screw a few turns to make sure it's not the IAC.

It will not start, it will not even sputter. It was running for all of 30 seconds after I cleaned the injectors and put them back in. I would think that even in the most unfavorable conditions the fuel dripping down in there with the air and spark would at least render a pop but I have got nothing.

Viperwolf1 · Mar 30, 2013

0.035" is too small. TFI wants to see about 0.054".

Check the basics, spark and fuel pressure.

Raptors EFI swap problems update,IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!

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