Drag Link Question

I installed all new steering linkage today but have a question about the lower bushing on the drag link. Does the metal washer go on the drag link or tie rod side of the rubber disc? My old linkage was "custom" %).

It goes under the nut.

Which linkage did you go with?
Is the hole in the washer big enough to fit around the tapered stud without hitting?

While mcknight is probably correct, I've seen washers that were meant to reinforce the rubber boot before.

Paul

Hey DD. I went with the TBP adjustable drag link. It is the same washer with a 90 degree lip around the edge that you guys use on your drag link. It is intended to reinforce the bushing but I am not sure whether it goes on the drag link side of the bushing or the tie rod side.

I did finally get the F150 tie rod setup that I bought from you guys a while back installed. I am running the '78 Bronco disc knuckles and the tie rods bolted up and worked great. They are a lot nicer than the stock rods. Beefy!

mcknight77 said:

It goes under the nut.

Click to expand...

That is usually the case. Just not this time.

Found this picture on broncograveyard. Looks like it goes on the drag link side of the bushing.

Do you have a picture of it?Mine was the rubber bushing was against the tie rod bar,then the metal washer on top,then the drag linkage went threw that.I have the three way adjustable from HW.Im not sure if I have the same one as you.

more pics.

Thanks for the pics. Pretty close to the same setup only difference is I am running the larger lie rod ends for the full size/disc knuckles. That's how I ended up installing the bushing and washer since that is how the factory picture above showed them.

Now on to the next problem. The tab welded to the upper part of the drag link for the steering stabilizer bracket was welded on at the wrong angle. Yours looks fairly perpendicular but mine is pointing down at about a 25 degree angle, which causes the bracket to hit the stabilizer shock and cut the RH turning range in half. Gonna have to give Tom's a call tomorrow, which sucks since it is already painted and installed. Will probably just have to cut it loose, turn it, and reweld it.

I have to figuer out how to lesson the angle so my steering stabilizer will work.Its in a pretty bad angle in the stock position,I have a 3.5inch HW lift and it lifted it way above 3.5inch,Ive talk to Dirtdonk and he figuired it should settle down one I got the drive train in,drivetrain in and it hasnt moved, hoping when I GET IT RUNNING IT WILL SETTLE DOWN!!!Then Ill try the stabilizer for fitment.Thinking about lowering frame muont to releave the angle.

Don't remember the conversation about settling and the stabilizer, because most of the settling that goes on with a modern suspension is in the rear leaf springs. Not so much with the front coils.
Are you sitting more than 3.5" up in the front? If so, that would be somewhat unusual. At least I would say that more than a 1/2" variation would be unusual.

But I don't think anything is going to settle enough to change the location of the upper bracket, if that's what you're referring to?
The pitman arm pretty much dictates that the outer bracket mounted to the draglink will have dropped an equal amount. Making the shock angle downward on the driver's side.
Any change in ride-height will have minimal effect on the height of the location for the mounting bracket.

Is that what you were talking about? Or are you referring to something else? So we can see what exactly they're doing, can you post up a pic with the bracket mounted?

Oh, and are those images current? If so I still say you need to rotate the tie-rod's centerlink up so that the mounting hole for the draglink is at more of an angle.
Only reason to leave it down like that, facing basically forward, is if it helped in matching the angles of the draglink and trackbar.
Or is it just the angle of the camera shots that makes it look like it's that way?

Paul

Since we are working on the same thing with the drag link install I will add a couple questions here. When I removed my drag link the rubber bushing was on the drag link end and the washer was against the tie rod. I see the picture posted of the d30 breakdown, but mine is a D44, would hat be different.

Also, DirtDonk, are you saying that the hole in the tie rod should be as vertical as possible or just not completely horizontal?

Thanks,
Jim

Hey Jim.

That pesky little washer is a real bug-a-boo, and has been for years.
Probably one reason is that many of the stock ones did not have the exact same washer. My '71 original had a completely different setup in fact. Been too long for me to remember the differences, but it was definitely different. And that was back in the early '80's, so they'd already changed the design for the replacements.

But I seem to remember putting mine against the draglink when I first installed it. Just made sense at the time (that or I read the Moog instructions maybe?) and worked fine.
Obviously, if yours had been against the tie-rod and worked as well, with the rubber lasting for many years, then it might not be as important enough to worry about.
Has yours been in there a long time? Is it the same design, or a variation?

According to the recent discussion it seems to go against the draglink side. And that side might be more prone to the metal moving in weird directions on the rubber, whereas the tie-rod side stays more consistent against the rubber? Not sure.
It's probably just there to keep the rubber washer from "walking" and squeezing out and then finally spitting out as it eventually splits and separates. That's just a guess of course, but it sounds legit to the voices in my head.

Regarding the tapered hole for the draglink on the tie-rod's centerlink, neither vertical or horizontal. More of a 45° angle upward and forward. Sort of aiming it at the bumper.
If you have your original stock type still around, just look at how Ford did it and mimic that.
It's not critical that it match exactly. But it should be close.
There are plenty of variables now, what with all the custom additions and changes to the suspension height that we deal with, but keeping it at somewhat of an angle like the original will reduce (or completely eliminate) the tendency of the tie-rod to want to "rotate" during transitions in the steering.
Reducing that rotational movement makes for a more direct steering feel and performance. It also reduces the amount of long-term wear and tear on the tie-rod ends.

I don't have a picture, but I believe some have been posted here recently that will show what I'm talking about.
If you have your stock one laying around, check it out.

Paul

As I see it if you want to fix the bind between the pitman arm and drag link without making a lot of stuff you can do 1 of 2 things, either lower your EB or twist the pitman arm. If you don't believe put the wheels back on and put the EB's weight on them, the drag link will go right on.

Hey Paul,on a earlier thread I did.we talk about the 3.5 inch coil springs I got from WH.At the time I didnt have my engine or drive train in,and the coils were lifting it high in front.I have the engine and drive train in and it bearly move the coils,and with the drag linkage it tillted up a littlebit I no it should be more,but Im going to wait till the bronco is done before messing with it.With the steering stablizer, with it lifted higher than 3.5 the angle is very steep.here are some pics.Its measuring at 11 1/2inch from top of tube to bottom of frame.The HW shorty headers fit great, but in another thread I talk about the motor mount I bought from HW. how I had to modifie them to get them to work.Well when my son and I went to put the motor in .it didnt sit in their straight,it sat level in the mounts. but it was not straight,off by 1 1/2inch.would not line up with the trans.I ended up puting my old ones back on and it fit with no issues.But the motor mounts are another issue and I talk more in that thread about a week ago,so back to the front end Im just going to get it done and see how it drive and handles,my be fine my not well see,thats why I own a earlier bronco it keeps me busi and out of trouble.Dave

Ok, gotcha. I think I remember discussing the stabilizer, but have evidently forgotten about the front height being off. Should'a remembered that!
Yes, kind of unusual, so I'm glad you're bringing it back up. And putting dealing with it off until everything is done and it's capable of running around a bit.

We can certainly revisit it any time after that for sure. The fronts being off are pretty rare. And a full inch makes it sound almost like 4.5" springs got mixed up in there.
Also unusual, but I'm sure not completely unheard of.

Paul