School me on 3g alternator upgrades

cody72sport · Feb 28, 2014

I've heard that this can be done for a small investment with early 90's taurus alternators, steer me in the right direction thanks guys

rguest3 · Feb 28, 2014

BC Broncos has a very good wire diagram for the upgrade. Clear and straight forward.

Taurus and 94-95 5.0L Mustangs are good sources for 3G.

You will get rid of some wiring and your External Regulator in the engine compartment which will clean it up a little.

Very good upgrade will a little effort and time.

KyleQ · Feb 28, 2014

School yourself with some reading - this topic is a dead horse on the internet.

3G's fit in damn near everything - I've got one on my 86' 6.9IDI all the way down to my 64' Galaxy 500.

Timmy390 · Feb 28, 2014

Check out this thread.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196216

There's a link in the above thred that shows the install.

I haven't done this YET but when my alt goes, I will.

Tim

Fairlane514 · Feb 28, 2014

You have to make sure it has the same bolt pattern distance from eye to eye. I used a 1993 Aerostar alternator.

If you are going to use the V belt pulley you may have problems with a large amp alt, such as 130 and up. It puts a strain on the belt and it can squeal and wear out quickly. You can tighten it up to the extreme,but it also puts a strain on the other pulley it rides on. If it goes around the water pump pulley it stresses the pump shaft. I know there are a lot of people using a 130 amp on a single groove V belt and they say they have no problems, but of course the reverse is true also.

I chose the 95 amp 3G for my V belt system. You can also use a double groove V belt pulley and eliminate some problems with a higher amp alt.

Im not running a lot of electronics, so I think I can get by with the 95 amp.

pcf_mark · Feb 28, 2014

Do it. Almost bolts right in. Wiring is easy and you will never have dim headlights or slow heater again. Right up there with disc brakes in terms of modern upgrades but at $35!

cody72sport · Feb 28, 2014

pcf_mark said:
Do it. Almost bolts right in. Wiring is easy and you will never have dim headlights or slow heater again. Right up there with disc brakes in terms of modern upgrades but at $35!

how did you get yours done for 35 dollars?

Rustytruck · Feb 28, 2014

Go to the wrecking yard and pick out your alternator. Then go to a Ford car that has the large yellow wire for the high amp alternator in the length you need and get the mega fuse too. bolt this onto the alternator and then take it to the sales counter and pay what they ask. Might as well get the alternator, fuse and wiring all at the same time it will be cheeper. Make sure you leave as much of the factory wire harness as you can attached to the alternator you need it to make up your new wiring.

pcf_mark · Feb 28, 2014

I took mine off a 2001 Mustang V6 in the yard. I took all the wiring I could also (no maxi fuseI should probably add that). $35 out the door. I swapped my V belt pullet from the old alt on to the new one and made the slight wiring change. I was so happy to throw that damn voltage regulator away I cant even tell you. Over 3 years on the truck and it never balks at electric fan, heater, high beams, wipers all on high.

I did have a problem that I thought was an alternator for about a week and it was the skinny v belt I was running had stretched and was slipping causing it to not charge. Get the big boy Top Cog belt and tighten the crap out of it.

Timmy390 · Feb 28, 2014

Dang good thread here:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55169&highlight=alternator

Good info here on the diff alts:
http://alternatorparts.com/ford-type-3g-4g-6g-series-high-output-alternators.htm

You could get a 95 amp or a 130 amp G3
They are very easy to tell apart because of the case size. 95 Amp units have 5-1/8" cases, and 130 amp units have 5-5/8" cases.
4 holes between webbing = 90 amp
2 holes between webbing = 130 amp

Just some info I assembled

Tim

smokinjoe · Feb 28, 2014

I run the 130A sourced from a Taurus in my 70 Stang. I also pulled the thick heavy guage wire from the yard, it was also around $35-$40 bucks.

I run the single v belt pulley and have had zero issues.

GREAT! Easy swap and the guys are right, there's TONS of articles out there about this.

Timmy390 · Feb 28, 2014

smokinjoe said:
I run the 130A sourced from a Taurus in my 70 Stang.

I so need to do that on my 69 Stang.....

Tim

Broncobowsher · Feb 28, 2014

Don't forget they love to squeal single V-belt drives. All the factory applications I know of are serpentine belt drive.

smokinjoe · Feb 28, 2014

Timmy390 said:
I so need to do that on my 69 Stang.....

Tim

Absolutely! I never worry anymore about load or a weak start or even header heat sync issues. And if you're like me you're flying through regulators %) I thnk at an idle my 3G puts out more juice than my old stocker did at full output!

Broncobowsher said:
Don't forget they love to squeal single V-belt drives. All the factory applications I know of are serpentine belt drive.

I use to get a little squeal at a fast rev, but I readjusted the belt and no mas. They are all serpetine drive that I'm aware of as well. OP will have to pull the serpentine pully and swap over if he runs v belt, sometimes a washer is needed as a spacer.

Slednut10 · Feb 28, 2014

Timmy390 said:
Dang good thread here:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55169&highlight=alternator

Good info here on the diff alts:
http://alternatorparts.com/ford-type-3g-4g-6g-series-high-output-alternators.htm

You could get a 95 amp or a 130 amp G3
They are very easy to tell apart because of the case size. 95 Amp units have 5-1/8" cases, and 130 amp units have 5-5/8" cases.
2 holes between webbing = 90 amp
4 holes between webbing = 130 amp

Just some info I assembled

Tim

Don't get mad at me, Tim- 2 holes= 130 amp. 4 is a 90/95amp. Just looking to keep the confusion to a minimum! Did my 78 F250 plow truck a while ago and love it. Have not done the Bronco yet as it does not work with the air pump bracket.

Timmy390 · Feb 28, 2014

Slednut10 said:
Don't get mad at me, Tim- 2 holes= 130 amp. 4 is a 90/95amp. Just looking to keep the confusion to a minimum! Did my 78 F250 plow truck a while ago and love it. Have not done the Bronco yet as it does not work with the air pump bracket.

Dang it, I hate providing wrong info. You're right...I typed it back-ass-words

I'll fix my post

Tim

Timmy390 · Feb 28, 2014

smokinjoe said:
And if you're like me you're flying through regulators %) I thnk at an idle my 3G puts out more juice than my old stocker did at full output!

My output at idle is near nothing. I keep a tender on it because the clock runs the battery down SO quick which really helps but yeah I need more output bigitme. Those old clocks used some juice I tell you what.

Tim

cody72sport · Feb 28, 2014

Timmy390 said:
Dang good thread here:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55169&highlight=alternator

Good info here on the diff alts:
http://alternatorparts.com/ford-type-3g-4g-6g-series-high-output-alternators.htm

You could get a 95 amp or a 130 amp G3
They are very easy to tell apart because of the case size. 95 Amp units have 5-1/8" cases, and 130 amp units have 5-5/8" cases.
4 holes between webbing = 90 amp
2 holes between webbing = 130 amp

Just some info I assembled

Tim

great info on that second link, thank you

Slednut10 · Mar 1, 2014

Timmy390 said:
Dang it, I hate providing wrong info. You're right...I typed it back-ass-words

I'll fix my post

Tim

No problem Tim-nice to know I'm not the only one who does that!

bronconut73 · Mar 1, 2014

Good data. I'll be doing this soon too.
I love this damn site.

School me on 3g alternator upgrades

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