So I have 12v going to the regulator with the key on. A little over 3 volts on the guage side, is that low enough to NOT operate the guages? I'm thinking it should put out 6v but was also thing it would be an all or nothing scenario. These are over $50.00 so before I buy a new one I was wondering if anyone knew much about them and the voltage needed to move the guage needle.
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Guage cluster voltage reg question
- Thread starter figo40
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Broncobowsher
Total hack
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Do you have an original style or a new "electronic" style?
Or a new replacment of the original style?
The original is pretty much a turn signal flasher. The average output is about 5V. Neat part is it is temperture compensating so in the winther it runs a bit more to make up for the cold gauges and in the heat it runs less. Neat trick as the stock gauges are thermally actuated (heating elements bend bimetalic strips).
The offshore new stock replacments are well known for the lack of quality control.
The new electronic ones are little more then an LM7805 linear voltage regulator. Not shure where you found either of those at the price gouging cost of $50.
Or a new replacment of the original style?
The original is pretty much a turn signal flasher. The average output is about 5V. Neat part is it is temperture compensating so in the winther it runs a bit more to make up for the cold gauges and in the heat it runs less. Neat trick as the stock gauges are thermally actuated (heating elements bend bimetalic strips).
The offshore new stock replacments are well known for the lack of quality control.
The new electronic ones are little more then an LM7805 linear voltage regulator. Not shure where you found either of those at the price gouging cost of $50.
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- Nov 3, 2003
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I would think that 3v would still make the needles move. Just read lower than they should.
If yours has that little stubby doohicky sticking out near the connectors (you can just see it in these pics: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=voltage+regulator), it's likely an adjustable type. Easy enough to spin it clockwise to turn up the voltage.
Paul
If yours has that little stubby doohicky sticking out near the connectors (you can just see it in these pics: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=voltage+regulator), it's likely an adjustable type. Easy enough to spin it clockwise to turn up the voltage.
Paul
The one I have looks just like this but with a single terminal on the 12v side.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...p?year=1969&make=Ford&model=Bronco&vi=5157895
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...p?year=1969&make=Ford&model=Bronco&vi=5157895
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That little nub sticking out next to the female (left) terminal is an adjustable rheostat control. You can choose to either send yours back for not putting out specified voltage, or just tweak the adjuster to see what happens.
But since most of the ones I've seen have some lacquer to hold it in place, and that would be broken by moving the stud, it might not be returnable after that.
Assuming it's a new unit in the first place?
Anyway, before you do anything make sure that your instrument cluster is well grounded to the dash, and that the dash is well grounded to the body, and that the body is well grounded to the battery.
This is usually why electrical things don't work well on our Broncos.
Good luck.
Paul
But since most of the ones I've seen have some lacquer to hold it in place, and that would be broken by moving the stud, it might not be returnable after that.
Assuming it's a new unit in the first place?
Anyway, before you do anything make sure that your instrument cluster is well grounded to the dash, and that the dash is well grounded to the body, and that the body is well grounded to the battery.
This is usually why electrical things don't work well on our Broncos.
Good luck.
Paul
Has been this way since I have owned it, I just installed a new tank and sending unit. I originally had duel tanks but the aux. and the switch are long gone. I guess I will need to trace the main tank wire and make sure it is good and hooked to the guage and not the old aux tank wire. Lots of variables here, I have seperate quages for h2o temp, amps and oil psi so I'm only concerned with fuel at this point.
Hi, the old school test for any gauge is to ground it at the sender. If the gauge goes full sweep the circuit is good. Found by ground. Good luck
Everything is good but the neddle will not move, could it be stuck/gummed up inside the guage? can I take it apart and clean it? I think the needle moves the smallest amount but it just may be my wishfull thinking. Oh, there is only 4 gallons in the stock tank currently.
Hi, I'll tell you a little secret I discovered. Since you have an aftermarket temp gauge the stock Ford temp gauge is a direct replacement for the fuel gauge. Since I needed to fix my stuck fuel gauge and out of my 3 clusters I have they were all NG l realized the temp gauge will bolt in and work. Now 180 is full and 120 is empty. My being so cheap sometimes is amazing. By the way I thought the instrument cluster voltage regulator gave a 6 volt pulse current to each gauge, which can be found at the sender end of the wire. Good luck
BoulderMike22
Jr. Member
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- 98
The volts on the gauges is around 1.5 so I don't suspect your regulator is bad. It's very possible the sending unit in the tank. If the gauge is working it should move a little. If the sending unit isn't working properly, it just won't register to the proper level.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Skiddy
Bronco Guru
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did you try the grounding trick, mine wasn't working and found the muffler was up against the wires and were burnt in half.
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Why do you suspect anything about the fuel sender figo? Since this has been doing it since you bought the truck, and all three gauges are effected, and you know your IVR is only putting out 3v, then you have other issues that are unrelated to the sending unit.
It's entirely possible to get a bad one of course. And it's entirely possible for all three sending units AND the instrument voltage regulator to be bad. It's just that under the circumstances they're all WAAAAYYYY down the list of suspects at this point.
You can certainly test all the sending units, as that is very easy to do and a good place to start so you don't let their numbers skew your future findings. But you really should be hunting down something that is effecting all three gauges and the amount of voltage getting to them from the source.
Not sure what BoulderMike was referring to at 1.5v, but maybe he can clarify. All the ones I've tested put out 4-6 volts steady (electronic type) or a wide ranging pulse of voltage cycling between 3 and 8 or so if I remember. But I'm open to learning something new about these pesky little things.
Anyway figo, you need to be testing lots of other things, including making sure that you have a good grounding system on your Bronco. They came with the bare minimum grounding scheme from the factory, and when you add 40-50 years, rust, paint, replacement parts into the mix, your grounding scheme may be scheming against you!
Good luck.
Paul
It's entirely possible to get a bad one of course. And it's entirely possible for all three sending units AND the instrument voltage regulator to be bad. It's just that under the circumstances they're all WAAAAYYYY down the list of suspects at this point.
You can certainly test all the sending units, as that is very easy to do and a good place to start so you don't let their numbers skew your future findings. But you really should be hunting down something that is effecting all three gauges and the amount of voltage getting to them from the source.
Not sure what BoulderMike was referring to at 1.5v, but maybe he can clarify. All the ones I've tested put out 4-6 volts steady (electronic type) or a wide ranging pulse of voltage cycling between 3 and 8 or so if I remember. But I'm open to learning something new about these pesky little things.
Anyway figo, you need to be testing lots of other things, including making sure that you have a good grounding system on your Bronco. They came with the bare minimum grounding scheme from the factory, and when you add 40-50 years, rust, paint, replacement parts into the mix, your grounding scheme may be scheming against you!
Good luck.
Paul
Skiddy
Bronco Guru
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if that were the case I would buy a lottery ticket;D
Ok, I'm going to start from the beginning here, I think I'm confussing myself! I will start with grounds. Some one mentioned there should be voltage going to the sending unit through the orange wire? is that correct? I'm going to bypass the wire with with a new one from the guage to the sending unit, I had dual tanks originally. I should be able to figure this out, I'm really not as incompitent as this thread makes me sound!
blubuckaroo
Grease Monkey
You can verify that the gauge is working, by temporarily grounding the wire that goes to the tank sending unit, to the vehicle frame. The gauge should go to full scale if the gauge is working properly, regardless how much fuel is in the tank.
Don't confuse this test with the responses about a properly grounded gauge cluster.
I've seen a number of tank sending units register empty even when half full. Some don't understand that the sending unit doesn't come to your door with the float arm pre-adjusted.
Don't confuse this test with the responses about a properly grounded gauge cluster.
I've seen a number of tank sending units register empty even when half full. Some don't understand that the sending unit doesn't come to your door with the float arm pre-adjusted.
It's figured out. It was the guage. The hair fine wire wrapped around the metal leg, (technical speak) going to the sender terminal was broken. I removed the guage and replaced it with the temp guage (swapped faces). It now works but Not real accurate! I'll fill it in the next couple of days and see how it goes.
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