bronconut73
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2012
- Messages
- 9,918
I have always wanted to have door speakers in the eb. Door speakers create a bit of a false sensation of bass since you are effectively leaning on the speakers baffle board. The acoustics of some vehicles have rather different requirements from others. Typical eb's like mine are tinny sounding.
I used dyna mat on the interior door panel/shell. I have Duff aluminum door panels and they are the only thing that you cut. The door shell is still unmolested, well wait I did have to drill a hole in the door shell to run the wires.
Kicker 6.5" door speakers
Alpine head unit
Pioneer box speakers
Have but not instalked yet,
JL 300 watt amp
Kicker 12" sub.
In order to not hurt the oem door shell and to miss the window regulator you have to mount the speakers in the most unacoustic location, lol. But the sound is still really good.
Process is install/uninstall speaker and door panel quite a few times to be sure the speaker magnet misses the window regulator, especially where the arm swings.
You have to move the speaker as low and far back on the door panel as you can.
Try to choose shallow depth speakers. My Kickers were not the shallowest but not the deepest either.
This depth required me to use some of my dyna-mat at the door panel screw down perimeter to garner that last fraction of an inch of space. Shallower speakers may not need as much effort in that regard,
By the way...
My outer door skin has a bituminous based thick coating on the inside negating the need for peel & stick dyna-mat. The Dyna-Mat went on the inner door shell as seen in photo. This particular piece of door sheet metal "oil cans" pretty bad. This oil canning will translate to resonance from the speaker (no bueno). Dyna-Mat fixed that. The Dyna-Mat and likely the speakers weight have completely changed how my doors shut. Much more of a thud, instead of a clank.
Also....I put a piece of split rubber vacuum hose over the inner door handle actuation rod. I couldn't quiet it down and it was the loudest one in the door. The split vacuum hose worked great,
I used dyna mat on the interior door panel/shell. I have Duff aluminum door panels and they are the only thing that you cut. The door shell is still unmolested, well wait I did have to drill a hole in the door shell to run the wires.
Kicker 6.5" door speakers
Alpine head unit
Pioneer box speakers
Have but not instalked yet,
JL 300 watt amp
Kicker 12" sub.
In order to not hurt the oem door shell and to miss the window regulator you have to mount the speakers in the most unacoustic location, lol. But the sound is still really good.
Process is install/uninstall speaker and door panel quite a few times to be sure the speaker magnet misses the window regulator, especially where the arm swings.
You have to move the speaker as low and far back on the door panel as you can.
Try to choose shallow depth speakers. My Kickers were not the shallowest but not the deepest either.
This depth required me to use some of my dyna-mat at the door panel screw down perimeter to garner that last fraction of an inch of space. Shallower speakers may not need as much effort in that regard,
By the way...
My outer door skin has a bituminous based thick coating on the inside negating the need for peel & stick dyna-mat. The Dyna-Mat went on the inner door shell as seen in photo. This particular piece of door sheet metal "oil cans" pretty bad. This oil canning will translate to resonance from the speaker (no bueno). Dyna-Mat fixed that. The Dyna-Mat and likely the speakers weight have completely changed how my doors shut. Much more of a thud, instead of a clank.
Also....I put a piece of split rubber vacuum hose over the inner door handle actuation rod. I couldn't quiet it down and it was the loudest one in the door. The split vacuum hose worked great,
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