How exacty do you burp your cooling system. Ive been trying to this but not sure Im doing it correctly. I can get it to burp than i refill while its running but the temp gauge is pegged and im afraid of overheating. I have run it without the thermostat to check the water pump and checked the thremostat its opening at 180 both are working. But when I try and burp it Iam not seeing any water flow it just burps. More info When I was running without a thermostat it was still pegging the guage. HELP!!!!!!!!
Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
overheating HELP!
- Thread starter horseman
- Start date
SteveL
Huge chevy guy
another helpfull tip is to drill a 1/8" hole in the outer part of the t-stat so it will allow some water to flow till it opens. Don't drill it too wide so it hits the block.
SaddleUp
Bronco Guru
Pull the highest heater hose off at the block. Then fill it until coolant reaches it. Then put the hose back on and finish filling it up and you'll be set.
I filled it like saddleup said and it worked temp is holding around 195 at idel But it is still burping after 15 to 20 min how long sould this last? I feel alot better not seeing the gauge pegged! I have a coolent recovery tank sould I put the cap on yet? Thanks for everyones help!
Sounds like it is time for a compression test. You may have a head gasket leak. It should not have air (or exhaust) continually coming out of the radiator. If it idles rough or misses you might pull one plug wire off at a time while it is running and notice the change in idle speed. The one or ones that cause it to idle slower when removed or run faster when it is replaced are the good cylinders. Those that don't have much effect on idle speed are suspect and might be leaking compression into the coolant passages.
horseman said:
A head gasket with a small leak may not cause it to run rough. There is a lot of pressure built up when a cylinder fires. A tiny leak in the gasket surface can put a lot of air in the coolant and it will still run fine.
If you continually get white smoke out the tailpipe it is probably water.
302's are famous for blowing head gaskets if they ever been hot.
What was the reason for changing coolant?
I am putting it back togther after frame off 8mo ago I replaced thermostat and heater core last week as part of my troble shooting thought it look like air-pockets was the real problem. What is the best way to find out if I have a head gasket problem? I cant drive it yet its still being put back togther. Thanks
For test purposes I would take out the thermostat and refill it. Keep it full with the cap off and run the engine. If there isn't a leak the bubbles should go away after 20 or 30 min. The missing thermostat should help get out all the air that could be trapped unless you have a gasket leak.
Skuzzlebutt
PhD, Dr. of Broncology
There's a chemical test that shows if there are any hydrocarbons in the coolant. If the test is positive, a cylinder is leaking into the coolant. Hopefully it is a bad head gasket, 'cause if it isn't you probably have a cracked head.
