Bronco assembly what next?

[papy]

Frame, suspension, front and rear diffs all done and assembled.

Just wondering what you all suggest the next step be? Install the engine, trans, t case or run the brake, fuel lines and perhaps some electrical first?

Also should i pre assemble the engine, trans, t case prior to installing or install separate?

looking for your thoughts on the on this and all ideas, suggestions and pictures are appreciated


347 stroker
AX15 swap
Dana 20

painless harness
running new brake and fuel lines.

A few pics of the project to date and as it stands today.
PS not sure why my pics are sideways. Tried to rotate and no luck....

John

 

[bronkenn]

I like to install drive train first and build the rest to fit. Brake lines first, then fuel lines and electrical last. Ken

 

[Blue Bastard]

Same^^^^


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[Hopstr]

In that order, when would you put the body on the frame? Before electrical or after?

 

[Blue Bastard]

I plumb all fuel and brakes. Then body on. Electrical after. With that said you can prep the electric (fasteners,route) prior. But final location to be determined once the body is on for location and clearance from moving parts, sharp corners and sources of heat.


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[papy]

I like to install drive train first and build the rest to fit. Brake lines first, then fuel lines and electrical last. Ken

So install the bell housing, trans and t-case to the cross member/frame and then bolt up the engine the bell housing? Or assemble all together then drop drop everything onto the frame?

I see people doing it both ways so i am just wondering if one way is better/easier than the other? I am a one man show so help and knowledge is limited and around the home shop. Keep in mind when i bought my bronco it was just the bare body sitting on a bare frame so that is why i am asking all the questions.


Thank you

 

[bronkenn]

Depends on your shop situation. Some like to do it in one piece or do the engine than trans and t-case. That would probably be the easiest. It gives good access to install clutch and pressure plate. Ken

 

[LilMixedUp]

also depends on room and help... Building the complete rolling chassis is easier without the body. HOWEVER; that requires a lot of help or a lift to put body on after engine is installed.. because it requires picking it up over the engine and lowering into place. Like you I am a one man show most times, so body first, engine w/clutch and pressure plate, bell housing, transmission, transfer case...

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

One man show and outside here. If you have some type of gantry / A frame / Lift, then assemble engine w/ tranny and transfer case and lower into frame. The motor mounts (2) and the tranny mounts (2) will hold it all on the frame. Use the appropriate bolts for tranny, they originally came with nuts wire tied on. Tranny x member in place 1st. Don't forget the little bumper (1"x2") of rubber that goes on the tranny crossmember if you need it for your set up. Very hard to put in after tranny / transfer case is installed.

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[661buster1963]

curious what coating you used on the frame, and how durable is it?

 

[papy]

Loads of good info and pointers. I have access to a fork lift and scaffolding with chain hoist chain hoist that i can use at my buddy's shop if need be to put the body on the frame. I am thinking of building it in one piece on the floor (with appropriate blocks to support) and using the portable engine hoist to lift on the frame in one piece.

Then i will run the fuel and brake lines next and pre run some of the electrical as blue bastard recommended.

Thanks you all for the great info, Im sure il be back for more lol
Cheers

 

[papy]

curious what coating you used on the frame, and how durable is it?

1. Sand blast frame. Always handle frame with gloves after sandblasting to prevent contamination. finger print only take a few days to show up.
2. Very light coat of POR15.
3. After 3hrs or when 1st coat is tacky apply second coat slight heavier than first.
4. after 3-4hrs use any top coat of your choice. I used the eastwood chassis satin black cuz thats what i had available to me.

This is the method i used and it worked for me. Make sure you plug all the bolt holes on the frame or parts with bolts. This stuff is very durable and hard to remove once it cures. I had to re weld some brackets after i finished the frame and i had a hard time removing the POR15 even with grinder and sanding disk.

having said that i was super pissed that i had to re do a portion of the frame however this POR15 blended in nicely with the first round that i put on. It pretty much seamless once it cured.

Hope this helps

 

[73azbronco]

My biggest mistake was not putting fuel or brake lines on before putting body on. Ouch.

 

[bronkenn]

Make sure you plug all the bolt holes on the frame or parts with bolts. This stuff is very durable and hard to remove once it cures. I had to re weld some brackets after i finished the frame and i had a hard time removing the POR15 even with grinder and sanding disk.

having said that i was super pissed that i had to re do a portion of the frame however this POR15 blended in nicely with the first round that i put on. It pretty much seamless once it cured.

Hope this helps

That is the beauty of POR15. Any changes later it is easy to repaint, I paint everything and come back when cured and run a tap through the weld nuts that I will be using. Ken

 

[papy]

That is the beauty of POR15. Any changes later it is easy to repaint, I paint everything and come back when cured and run a tap through the weld nuts that I will be using. Ken

truly amazing product for sure. yes i had to run taps on the nuts as well.
some advice for 661buster1963 i would invest in a few good paint brushes for applying the POR. i used some cheapos and i spent a lot of time removing bristles lol. I think you can use a foam roller as well for the flat parts of the frame.

cheers

 

[bronkenn]

I tried foam rollers a few years back and they sucked. The mid priced 2 inch brush seems to work the best.