Bronco Help and Troubleshooting

[Ry1eigh]

Hey everyone I am new to this page and forum. I inherited a 77 bronco at 16 years old from my grandpa when he passed away. It sat at my grandmas' house for 7 years then at my house for another year and a half I had two jobs at the time. I recently within the past 3 or so months put in a new tank, sending unit, and fuel lines, rebuilt the carb, new alternator, new distributor cap and rotor, and many more things I am forgetting. Well, anyways it runs and "drives". As of now, I am facing some issues, the first one I would like to address is my cluster, like I have said before I put a new tank in and a new sending unit from Wild horses but my gauges are having some issues. I was looking behind my cluster today and saw the voltage regulator was not "connected" or in its' intended spot ( bolted into behind the dash) so I bolted it in and my temp gauges were reading properly as well as my oil pressure was reading properly, mind you when the regulator was not bolted in my gas gauge worked but my temp gauge and oil pressure gauge were both pegged even on a cold start in 40-degree weather. My other issue is my transfer case likes to get stuck, as of now it only likes to "drive" in 4h and I am trying to get it to drive in 2h... If this has anything to do with it, my driver-side hub is unlocked but my passenger side is seized and stuck. It "drives" as in I replaced the rear drum shoes and did not think of replacing the brake cylinders and now they are leaking as well as the passenger brake caliper piston is being seized so I have practically no brakes, therefore, I cannot drive it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[nvrstuk]

Welcome to the site and the world of Broncos... and Bronco repairs! lol

Lot going on in your post.

So are all your gauges working now?

T-case and 4H. Quite often the transfer case gets slightly bound up when the frt end is engaged. Back the Bronco up when trying to shift back into 2H. Might have to go back and forth between 4H & 2H a half dozen times. Vigorously The PS hub can make the frt end harder to unlock.

My recommendation IF you need to be out of 4H is to just disconnect the frt driveshaft
then you and fix that frt hub that's stuck.

Oh, glad to hear you aren't driving it without brakes... get those working!

 

[brewchief]

Transfer case should have the J pattern shifter, those are known for not shifting well, most of the bronco venders have a better version of the J shifter or a twin stick version, either one will help if it's a worn out shifter making it hard to get into the desired range.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would spray the hub and the shift linkages with WD-40, but, as mentioned, the transfer case is probably bound up. Jacking up the front or removing the front driveshaft can help for now. Get a Ford or Chiltons manual and get the brakes in 100% operating condition. You will need the hub locknut socket to remove the rotors so you can check and pack the wheel bearings. When a gauge doesn't work I ground the sender wire near the sender and see if the gauge goes full sweep. I also check the sender wire with a test light. The sender wire should have @ 6 volts pulsing voltage when the key is on, so the test light will be dim but blinking. Good luck

 

[Ry1eigh]

Welcome to the site and the world of Broncos... and Bronco repairs! lol

Lot going on in your post.

So are all your gauges working now?

T-case and 4H. Quite often the transfer case gets slightly bound up when the frt end is engaged. Back the Bronco up when trying to shift back into 2H. Might have to go back and forth between 4H & 2H a half dozen times. Vigorously The PS hub can make the frt end harder to unlock.

My recommendation IF you need to be out of 4H is to just disconnect the frt driveshaft
then you and fix that frt hub that's stuck.

Oh, glad to hear you aren't driving it without brakes... get those working!

Thank you!

 

[Ry1eigh]

Hi, I would spray the hub and the shift linkages with WD-40, but, as mentioned, the transfer case is probably bound up. Jacking up the front or removing the front driveshaft can help for now. Get a Ford or Chiltons manual and get the brakes in 100% operating condition. You will need the hub locknut socket to remove the rotors so you can check and pack the wheel bearings. When a gauge doesn't work I ground the sender wire near the sender and see if the gauge goes full sweep. I also check the sender wire with a test light. The sender wire should have @ 6 volts pulsing voltage when the key is on, so the test light will be dim but blinking. Good luck

Thank you sir I will try that