Door Post Alignment (... yup another one)

[DJT]

So I'm just getting started with my panel replacements and I've researched this site thoroughly re: this subject.
(Bummed out that a lot of the old posts pictures and files don't come up anymore)

I have the full platform from Dynacorn, new kick panels, A pillars and new bushings all around. (The entire front clip is being replaced with new metal).
My measurements are pretty close to the sheet that we all use (or to original door gaps) and everything is square and level to the ground.
Right off the bat my pass door is about 1/2 below the B pillar and the door itself angles lower towards the A pillar. It seems like if I raised the A pillar the difference would bring the B pillar side up to even, but right now it's flush to the windshield frame and the frame is at 21 1/2" to the floor pan and the bottom of the kick panel matches up with the inner rocker.... So seems like those are all pretty close to accurate.
As you can see in the pic I'm a little tight so going to have to move everything about an 1/8" but not sure how to get the door raised.
It feels like too big of a gap for shims especially when everything is new?
Any input would be great

 

[DirtDonk]

How are you getting your A-pillar gap dimensions to the door without the front fender installed? Seems to me the front will close up quite a bit i would think once the fender is at least located.
For the rear you need to adjust the striker post up so that the door aligns with the bed rail body line. Then level out the door along that line and see where the front falls in relation to the fender so you can make the hinge AND fender adjustments to match that line.
No matter where the hinges are, the rear of the door is aligned in the closed position with the striker alone.

 

[DirtDonk]

My '68 is not perfectly aligned either (yet) but you can at least see the relationship that the front fender dictates.
Pardon the pollen bombs, but ginkgo trees suck several times a year!

 

[DJT]

Thanks for the reply DirtDonk. I used the gap from the original measurements I took before ripping everything out (and not bracing properly) and also the measurement bible found on this site. I wasn't even thinking about the fender yet, so I guess I should mock that up first to see where I land.
I feel like I'm too tight as it is now anyways, whats a proper gap without weatherstripping?

Thanks for the info!

 

[DJT]

I'd be thrilled to be that close!

 

[DirtDonk]

Gap should not change with weatherstripping. But it sure makes it harder to do the alignment process and close the doors!
So don't even THINK about installing the weatherstripping permanently until you've adjusted the doors to within an inch of their lives. And don't install it permanently anyway, until you've verified that the seals you bought are going to play nice with your particular setup.
Common issue, as you've no doubt read here.

As you would expect, the panels themselves should remain level with each other in all planes. But as for actual gaps, I'd say it's hard to say because every Bronco is different.
But a common gappage at the front and rear openings would be in the 1/8" to 3/16" range. Can be as much as 1/4" in one gap, but seems like that would be where the differences start to be visually obvious even from a distance.
The image above shows an approx. 1/8" gap.

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

How are you getting your A-pillar gap dimensions to the door without the front fender installed? Seems to me the front will close up quite a bit i would think once the fender is at least located.
For the rear you need to adjust the striker post up so that the door aligns with the bed rail body line. Then level out the door along that line and see where the front falls in relation to the fender so you can make the hinge AND fender adjustments to match that line.
No matter where the hinges are, the rear of the door is aligned in the closed position with the striker alone.

definitely should have it a little more together before them measurements

 

[sprdv1]

I'd be thrilled to be that close!

Just a little time and effort

 

[sprdv1]

Gap should not change with weatherstripping. But it sure makes it harder to do the alignment process and close the doors!
So don't even THINK about installing the weatherstripping permanently until you've adjusted the doors to within an inch of their lives. And don't install it permanently anyway, until you've verified that the seals you bought are going to play nice with your particular setup.
Common issue, as you've no doubt read here.

read up on others experiences and keep getting feedback for sure.. You'll get it just like you want it

 

[trailerjack]

I have adjusted doors, and at this point I would rather pull a motor than adjust more doors. I used an engine hoist as another set of hands to help me with adjustment. Just remember the door gaps were never perfect straight out of the factory, so give yourself a little bit of grace on this. It probably wasn't perfect even off the showroom floor.