Help removing front drums with hub

[Minderbinder3]

I am having the original wheels on my ‘66 sand blasted before I have them painted and thought while I was at it I would have them clean up the rusty drums as well.

The rears removed as usual but I am not familiar with how to remove the fronts with the hub assembly.

Any words of wisdom? My front driver’s side has some brake stick so it will give me a chance to work on that as well.

Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ll join the conversation just to see what the 66 experts have to say.
Some drums are removable in the standard way just by pulling them off of the hub. But I’ve never had success doing that on the front myself.
All of my drums have also looked different than yours, and the later model lockout mechanism is different as well. Per your other discussion elsewhere, you have the early three screw lockouts/hubs. Whereas most of us with later models have the six screw Spicer lockouts/hubs.

Generally speaking though, the easiest way is to remove them as an assembly anyway.
Remove locking mechanism, remove the wheel bearing hardware and pull the entire assembly off as a single unit with the drum and bearing hub still attached to each other.
This is a safe bet too, because in case yours is one of the models where they are indeed one piece, you don’t end up breaking a nice original brake drum simply because you went at it with bigger and bigger hammers to try to remove it from the hub.

To do this correctly, you will need snap-ring pliers and a special tool called a hub nut socket or spindle nut socket or just hub nut wrench.
It’s a big four prong spanner socket to take the bearing locking and adjusting nuts off.
And here’s another area that I am not 100% sure that the 66 model is the same.
So hopefully one of the 66 experts chimes in with the exact details.

 

[Minderbinder3]

I’ll join the conversation just to see what the 66 experts have to say.
Some drums are removable in the standard way just by pulling them off of the hub. But I’ve never had success doing that on the front myself.
All of my drums have also looked different than yours, and the later model lockout mechanism is different as well. Per your other discussion elsewhere, you have the early three screw lockouts/hubs. Whereas most of us with later models have the six screw Spicer lockouts/hubs.

Generally speaking though, the easiest way is to remove them as an assembly anyway.
Remove locking mechanism, remove the wheel bearing hardware and pull the entire assembly off as a single unit with the drum and bearing hub still attached to each other.
This is a safe bet too, because in case yours is one of the models where they are indeed one piece, you don’t end up breaking a nice original brake drum simply because you went at it with bigger and bigger hammers to try to remove it from the hub.

To do this correctly, you will need snap-ring pliers and a special tool called a hub nut socket or spindle nut socket or just hub nut wrench.
It’s a big four prong spanner socket to take the bearing locking and adjusting nuts off.
And here’s another area that I am not 100% sure that the 66 model is the same.
So hopefully one of the 66 experts chimes in with the exact details.

Thanks. I usually give ‘em a couple of taps from the inside with a rubber mallet but I never force it. This one is more solid feeling than any other I have ever messed with.

 

[DirtDonk]

It may very well be one of the one piece units.
Doesn’t look like there’s much separation at the actual bearing hub, but it does look like it is multi piece in other sections where those holes are.
But either way, I would just remove the entire assembly. Servicing the bearings and the brakes at the same time is a great way to do it.
A tried and true tradition with solid axle four-wheel-drive trucks of old.

 

[Broncobowsher]

If the drums are as they should be (not oversized lug holes). The drum and the hub don't come apart. The good about this is the drum gets machined true to the bearing centerline. The bad is you have to take the lockout apart and take the bearings out every time you want to get into the brakes. Which is probably a good thing so you can maintain the bearings. Really no different than taking a brake rotor off, you have to pull the lockout and bearings to pull the hub with rotor together.

Some drums slip off. Either the stud holes have been wallowed out (maybe drilled) or studs with a short shoulder that doesn't catch the drums.

To seperate the drum from the hub, knock out the wheel studs and they come apart.

 

[WILDHORSES]

Generally speaking though, the easiest way is to remove them as an assembly anyway.
Remove locking mechanism, remove the wheel bearing hardware and pull the entire assembly off as a single unit with the drum and bearing hub still attached to each other.
This is a safe bet too, because in case yours is one of the models where they are indeed one piece, you don’t end up breaking a nice original brake drum simply because you went at it with bigger and bigger hammers to try to remove it from the hub.

To do this correctly, you will need snap-ring pliers and a special tool called a hub nut socket or spindle nut socket or just hub nut wrench.
It’s a big four prong spanner socket to take the bearing locking and adjusting nuts off.
And here’s another area that I am not 100% sure that the 66 model is the same.
So hopefully one of the 66 experts chimes in with the exact details.

Follow DirtDonks plan. I have yet to see a true 1 piece version. It's a unicorn to me unless someone can post pics. That part would have to result in 20-30 lbs of metal shavings to make it. Sometimes the early drums will just pull off the hub sometimes not.

Jim

 

[don k]

What I would do is remover the lockout mechanism. Remove the outer bearing. You will either need the special socket or a hammer and slot screw driver to do it. If it won't come apart then try to loosen the brake shoes through the slotted hole in the backing plate. Don't get too carried away with the BFH.

 

[DirtDonk]

The problem with the hammer and screwdriver method for removing the nuts is, that if they are properly torqued you might destroy (or at least seriously damage) the outer nut trying to hammer and screwdriver it off after it’s been installed with 100+ pound feet of torque.
The opposite end of that problem is that you can’t properly torque it to 100+ lbs with those same tools when reinstalling it.
It’s been done thousands of times with hammer and screwdriver of course, but it’s still not correct.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Hammer and screwdriver are side of the road/trail "I'm willing to destroy parts" approach to getting into the wheel bearings. Proper tool can be had at most any parts store and is not expensive.

 

[FordBronc]

Not this way...I'd try to remove all the lock in/out stuff 1st. Then 2 snap rings and the inner lock in/out piece. Then get the hub socket and get the 2 spindle nuts loose and off. FYI there is a lock washer in between them.