SBF Adjustable Engine Mount???

[ba123]

Anyone make one? I searched and see Coyote ones and swap ones, but I will probably need to move my engine forward the tiniest amount...like 1/4-1/2" (now I'm even more glad I did the Explorer front swap!

I put the engine in and then test fitted the intake and that's a little too close. Might be better or worse due to angle when I put in the tranny.

Would be good if I could move it just slightly forward if I have room to do it.

Any other thoughts?

 

[Oldtimer]

Factory mount, can you weld up and redrill holes that mount it to the block?
Heavy duty mount, can you trim pivot bushing at one end and add spacers at other end to move motor forward?

 

[Broncobowsher]

I would be inclined to build my own version of the extreme mounts to place the engine in just the right spot. I've done it before in other projects that required custom adaptor mounts. Frame on jackstands, engine on travel trailer leveling screw jacks to get it just right. Make pieces to fill the gaps. Universal poly bushing kits (with inner and outer sleeves) are readily available now.

 

[tirewater]

I'd hook up the transmission/transfer case with mounts and start from there. As you mention, the angle will probably change when you connect everything up. It might be "good enough", or only need a shim or two at the rear mount to tilt the engine forward.

 

[DirtDonk]

X2. With just the engine sitting there, do you know for certain it’s at the correct angle now?

 

[Broncobowsher]

You can correct a little of that clearance issue if you can raise the transmission a little bit as well. But that involves getting out the can opener for the can of worms it can open up.

 

[ba123]

X2. With just the engine sitting there, do you know for certain it’s at the correct angle now?

No, as I said I’m not sure but I did have to pull the engine forward just to get the intake in place so I’d bet it will need to come forward, but again, I could get lucky and since I’m putting in an AOD and will have to move the mount, I might be able to use that to my advantage.

Just trying to be prepared since the odds are against me.

 

[bax]

My 400 is very close to the firewall. I slotted the mount hole forward 3/8'' where the stud came thru the frame mount. I put the motor in, lined it up and pulled it forward. Installed the bolts and tightened them. No issues.

 

[Madgyver]

cut the firewall. I did...

 

[Yeller]

Bax’s option is what I would do. Simple and effective.

 

[sprdv1]

Bax’s option is what I would do. Simple and effective.

unless you want more room like ole Mad Man

 

[ba123]

My 400 is very close to the firewall. I slotted the mount hole forward 3/8'' where the stud came thru the frame mount. I put the motor in, lined it up and pulled it forward. Installed the bolts and tightened them. No issues.

I will wait to be sure, but I like that idea.

So, the holes on the frame mounts are what you slotted?

Thanks to all!

 

[ba123]

In the middle of doing the seals for my D20 and go figure my Graveyard seal kit is missing an output sea! I’ve got the yoke off ready to put back on and no seal!

 

[MarsChariot]

Is that a 5.0? Mine looked like that until I installed the transmission and the block got a health forward tilt.

 

[ba123]

Is that a 5.0? Mine looked like that until I installed the transmission and the block got a health forward tilt.

Yes, but larger than average intake. I think even in the Mustang they say you have to move some metal for it.


Hopefully still, it’ll move up enough. The thing is though, it can only go forward so far with that Explorer tensioner bracket though and it’s tight. Fingers crossed!

Thanks!

 

[bax]

I will wait to be sure, but I like that idea.

So, the holes on the frame mounts are what you slotted?

Thanks to all!

Yes , only where the studs came thru.

 

[MarsChariot]

I am running an Explorer upper and lower intake. It is close but does not rub. Probably a good 1/2- 3/4 inch space at the closest point.

 

[nvrstuk]

What Bax said. I notched my mtr mt holes back when I put a 351W in with a taller intake. Easy fix. Engine is not going anywhere. This was in the '80's

Notch it.

 

[ba123]

I had such high hopes for the tranny raising the back of the engine up and giving me more room, but doesn’t look that way. I do still plan on loosening the engine mounts and see if I can wiggle it forward in the mount but otherwise I’ve got work to do.



Tranny is only test fit in there but it’s bolted and raised to the right level and sitting on the mount.

Speaking of which, seems dumb to drill new holes in the frame since these are not very far off. If I move the engine closer, then they will be even closer, but makes the most sense to just either drill another hole in this bracket or make a new bottom part like @SC74 did.


Not off by much though.

 

[ba123]

My 400 is very close to the firewall. I slotted the mount hole forward 3/8'' where the stud came thru the frame mount. I put the motor in, lined it up and pulled it forward. Installed the bolts and tightened them. No issues.

Bax, thanks again for the tip. While it seems like yours went a little smoother than mine did, this worked great for me.

The trouble I had was that I didn’t realize my engine mount bolts wouldn’t come all the way down to the bottom where I notched it and so I pulled the engine 3 total times getting it right. I think I have a little room to play with and I had 4 inches between the water pump and radiator which is about 3/4” more than I need.

This still might move a little with the tranny back in but I can move it forward more if not. But there is room there now!