Steering Wheel Install issues with steering column

[Crainbow243]

So I am installing a new steering wheel and Adapter from Tom's bronco parts ( https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/pag.../body/66-77-early-bronco-logo-steering-wheel/ ) and I am having issues getting it to fit/line up.

First issue is that the steering shaft isn't long enough to go through the Adapter plate. I torqued down the thing with the turn signal canceller and horn contacts then fit it up again, but at best the nut grabs a few threads... Anyone else deal with this?

Secondly, when I add the metal cover it rubs on the steering column, I tried loosening the steering column and sliding it in, but can't get any more clearance...

My first thought is grind down the metal cover and the Adapter plate to get more clearance... But I don't want to go that route if there is an easier solution.

Steering column is a 3 on the tree and bronco is a 1975.

Here are some pictures:

 

[gr8scott]

If you loosen this clamp on the column it may allow you to pull the threaded end toward you giving you more thread for the
nut and more clearance for the metal sleeve.

 

[Crainbow243]

Thanks! I think that was the part I was missing to move the column.

If you loosen this clamp on the column it may allow you to pull the threaded end toward you giving you more thread for the
nut and more clearance for the metal sleeve.

 

[Hotrodjohn]

That may work but it would seem your creating a gap between top snap ring and top bearing by doing so. I had one of these Toms wheels and it fit with the snap ring on top flush to the bearing like its supposed to be...does the alum adapter need to be pressed further down on splines?

 

[Crainbow243]

If you loosen this clamp on the column it may allow you to pull the threaded end toward you giving you more thread for the
nut and more clearance for the metal sleeve.

Is this shaft splined? Or is it possible to lose alignment by loosening that bolt?

 

[Crainbow243]

That may work but it would seem your creating a gap between top snap ring and top bearing by doing so. I had one of these Toms wheels and it fit with the snap ring on top flush to the bearing like its supposed to be...does the alum adapter need to be pressed further down on splines?

Not sure what bearing you are referring to, but I torqued down that first piece to the splines at about 50 ft lbs to get it on the splines as much as I could, is that what your talking about? I don't think that piece can go into the splines any further.

This part is the one I torqued down to the splines:

 

[Hotrodjohn]

The steering shaft on a 75 rides in two roller bearings that are mounted in a little rubber surround. There is one on each end. The top of shaft has a snap ring (under your adapter piece) that stops the shaft from sliding down, the bottom has that bolt collar that should be pushed up against bottom bearing to stop shaft from sliding up. When you bolt to steering shaft that also stops it to some degree. if someone left out the snap ring on top then shaft could be slid down a little low causing your problem. I have that exact Toms wheel and it had plenty of thread so Im a little puzzled. The way you say the metal cover rubs sounds like the steering shaft is riding low.

 

[Crainbow243]

Figured out the issues, as you guys pointed out it can defiantly be moved up and down on the shaft. Mine just happened to be a bit stuck even with the bottom clamp loosened. Turns out however that the top circlip is missing... Which is why my wheel was rubbing, it allowed the shaft to slide down to far and rest on the steering wheel. Any idea on where to get a new one?

Clamp removed:

Column with the shaft all the way in (as it was when I attempted this job):

Column pushed down with the spot shown where the circlip should be: