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Those who have had a shop built...

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,219
Would you have done anything differently? Things to avoid. I'm having a 40x60, with 16 foot ceiling, built in the spring and have started working with the contractor to sketch out what I want. Would rather learn from your mistakes than my own in this process. Appreciate any feedback. Will be used primarily to work on my Broncos and hopefully restore a few more.
 

Pops68

Contributor
Bronco Rookie
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
1,715
Loc.
Bazetta Township
What I was told, was double the size of what you want!!! I have a 24' X 40' workshop.....originally was going to be 20' X 20'. Size is just about right. My father-in-law has a 60' X 100' (about 1/3 is his shop, remainder is storage) and the running joke is: When we going to build your NEW building!!! Not close to being big enough for him.

Pops
 

okie4570

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
9,414
Loc.
NW OK
I added a 12' leanto on one side of our 30x40, concrete as well. Turned it into a grill, hang out area when the weather is nice. Not sure what your temps areally like, but we're more warm than cold, so I put the walk in door opposite the overhead so are would/wind would flow....we have plenty of wind lol. Added ventilation to the ceiling too.
 

gnpenning

Contributor
Bronco Slave
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,368
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
Put in big garage doors. nothing under 10'wide or 8' tall. Think 12' single wide and 20' for double wide, and 10' tall or higher. Go with one 14' high so you can pull in anything you want. Or have something on a forklift, gentry crane, something high in the bed of a truck, etc. With 16' ceilings go with high lift tracks and put the doors up close to the ceiling. This will help if you decide to put in a lift. While you will lose some bench space think about a pull thru door on the other side if you have to tow things in or double park.

For your welding or grinding area use metal on the walls. Consider for the rest a wains coat of metal about 3' up so you can wash the floor and not have to worry about getting your walls wet.

Lots of power outlets with plenty of 220v.

Isolate your compressor and dust collection in another room with maybe a light to let you know its on (compressor).

Exhaust vents either in your garage doors or to outside walls. You can even make a system that can go under the slab.

Go with radiant heat. Insulate slab and around all the edges blocking off the slab. Cement is a great heat conductor and you don't want to heat the great outdoors. DO NOT let anyone talk you into doing other wise. Been there done that. Plenty of insulation not just for heat but to keep your neighbors happy if you work late.

Plenty of lighting. Outlets on the outside of the building. Think battery charges and work lights,etc. Security camera wiring.

Plumbing for at least a sink if not a toilet. Maybe a dishwasher to use as a parts washer, washer to wash dirty rags. Oven for either powder coating or just baking paint or heating up bearings before pressing them on. Of course a fridge!!

If your going to put in a hoist be sure and run power and air under slab in conduit. Beef up pad for hoist. Don't forget power for lights not just to run the hoist. Anchor pads for grinders, or any equipment you may add.

Tie downs in the slab can be used for a anchor to pulling vehicles in or to pull out the dent you just put in.

Lots of storage above for seldom used items and lower for important stuff.

Do you plan on doing any painting? Even touch up? Ventilation and a clean area that can be set up away from dirty tools, grinders, welders, mills, lathes, etc.

That's a nice size shop to get you going.

You guys should have moved here you only missed by 4 hrs...
 

jeff_gates

Full Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
191
one other thing, I made a model of the garage and house out of foam core and a hot glue gun. this way you can get ideas on garage doors and windows layout.
 

West Tn Dawg

BULLDOG
Joined
Nov 1, 2013
Messages
1,809
Loc.
Kenton
The high ceiling is good, in case you want to install a lift later. You can't get to big. You will use whatever is available.
I also have a lean-too down one side and across the back. It is great for getting the Rhino, 4 wheeler, mower and trailer out of the shop.
THE BEST PART OF MY SHOP IS THE FLOOR DRAIN!!!!!!!
I can wash in the winter or summer. It also lets all the snow or rain water run out when I pull my truck in. I only tapered 1/4 of my floor. The other 3/4 I left level. This was to have a good flat surface when fabricating in the shop.
 

Swerve

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
526
Plumb your air lines so you have plenty of connection points. In the ceiling for retractable air lines also. I put air on both ends outside of my building, right next to my hose spigots and electrical outlets...
 
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904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
6,019
Loc.
San Martin, CA
So also think about resale value... Could this room/shop be used for something else some day? By someone else... Storage, Craft room, etc

I added a 14'x30' garage to my home. I wish that I could have added at least 2 more feet to the width.

Went vaulted ceilings, (This was for the two post lift.) with a paddle fan on the center beam above it.

Skylights on the southern exposure for natural light.

Slab with rebar, a drain would be handy :), go thicker if doing post lift.

Finishes - I did sheetrock (fire code on shared wall) thoughout, with a smooth finish, textured will collect dirt/dust.

Big doors, as stated... You might want them for Broncos, someone else in the future might want a place to park their "BA" Boat. (Big Ass)
On the doors pay the extra money for the openers that mount on the side wall. Have the tracks follow the vaulted ceiling, rather than go out at a 90*, like most garages. I put doors on both ends of my shop so I can still get equipment into my yard. Non standard sized doors cost more money.

Windows... I do not have any... But if I did they would be up high and used for light only.

Man Door... I had to have one required by code. Steel clad, solid core, dead bolted, with extra hardware to prevent force ins.

Outlets every 6 feet, at least two circuits per wall. Exterior outlets as well, as stated in above post. 220v a must, two locations, mine has 220v drop down to two post lift.

Lighting... LEDs, or high efficiency florescent. Multiple banks, as you may not want to light up the whole shop with one switch. You could just do work area lighting too in addition to general lighting. 2-way switches at locations that will be used as primary entrance/exit

Measure all your tool boxes and work tables, get an idea here they could go before hand. My work bench is mobile, everything can be moved out to clean or adjust for a project.

My 60 gal upright compressor is in the shop, mounted off the ground. When it runs, you can barely hear it inside the house because of the extra insulation that was installed. If you use high CFM tools, mount it outside under a lean-to or in its own small room. You do not want to listen to it cycle on/off

Cable/satellite TV... Run the cable in the wall. Consider where the TV will be... add blocking to the walls to give flexibility for wall mounted flat screens

Stereo/home entertainment... Where?, in a cabinet?, run the wires in the wall. Wireless speakers?

Irrigation controller and wires... I ended up redoing most of my irrigation, now it is mostly all in one spot. I ran extra wire for additions in the future.

Shear wall, maybe not required in your area, but adds to the structure strength and you can mount anything just about anywhere.

Cabinets - I was going to make some, big ideas and time consuming. I ended up having a company that I found at the local Good Guys event make and install some. They gave build discount for the show and free install. Good investment for me.

Exterior lighting - found some nice LED lights with motion detectors at Home Depot for $25, pleasantly surprised. Controlled by a switch that is generally left on all the time.
 

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Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Pour an extra slab outside as a pressure wash area and hot work. Put water and welding power on the share wall. Put in powered roof ventalators. Dont forget the internet and big screen. Dont forget bribing the little lady a little.
 

Ss69

New Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Messages
136
Loc.
Chattanooga TN
I sketched up some plans for a 40x60 building that I'm thinking about building if my life keeps going like it is. Haha 1/2 (40x30) of it will be my shop and 1/2 (40x30) of it will be my living area. It'll have 2br and 2ba. Definitely have to check zoning and insurance regulations.
 

gray gables

Full Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
742
I built a 30x60 barn last year for a customer of mine. Wide open, no support posts at all. We used a truss with a built in storage system for the upstairs. The upstairs storage is 60ft long,16ft wide with 7'6" of head height. On the main floor it is 12'6" from the bottom of the truss cord to the floor. Brought in a 100amp service for the electrical. He put in a 2 post car lift also. For him it's just storage and a place to get away from his wife. If it was me I would insulate the slab before I poured with 2 inch rigid insulation to help with the cold coming during the winter, another 1400 to do that. Sky's the limit when doing a building this size.
 

tx1ton

Full Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2003
Messages
840
Loc.
Boerne, TX
Separate bays for "dirty" work (Grinding, welding, metal work) - keeps your other stuff in the "clean" bays clean!

Loft - cheapest extra space you can build, and gets a lot of stuff off the floor and out of your way

Orient it so you get a good breeze, and put garage doors on both ends to max the breeze through the shop

Floor drain

Tons of lighting, but make sure you can switch portions off/on separately so you can manage the amount of light

Build it as big as your budget allows

Separate room for the compressor to keep things quieter in the work areas

Beef up your slab in an area you might put a two post lift even if you aren't planning to install one right away, if you ever do you'll be glad you did
 

NC-Fordguy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 30, 2006
Messages
1,317
Loc.
Bethel/Greenville NC
Properly Insulated with climate control

Too many times I've seen folks in a rush to get their tools, projects, and other stuff indoors with "I'll insulate it later" plan. Doesn't work well.

Swings in temps and humidity, building sweating, flash rust of exposed sheet metal, tools rusting makes an unpleasant work environment. Your shop is somewhere you want to be, not dread going into because the weather sucks.
 

NicksTrix

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 1, 2001
Messages
6,394
Vapor Barrier under the slab so it doesn't sweat
Lots good of ideas posted. Got to think long and hard what you really will be doing and can afford.
 

Crawdad

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
3,635
I'd suggest a loft/ attic space. I put an attic door to mine so I didn't have to worry about stairs. It stores sports equipment and hunting & fishing supplies, bronco parts, ovens, furniture, blah blah.... I also have a 4x4 foot door in the floor with a HF electric winch so I can pull up bronco doors, pressure washer, push mowers, etc.

Might I also suggest fans! I'd recommend industrial type fans as they hold up better and put out way better movement of air.

On that note consider heating as well. I plan to buy one of those 220 garage heaters when I get back home from Osan. Also consider a potbelly stove.

Go a head and put in a grounding rod where your electrical panel is. I didn't do this so now I gotta run copper wire thru perfectly good walls 7' away from panel.

Don't know the codes where you are at but here in SC it's 4" concrete floors. I'd suggest 6" thick floors wherever you bolt down your air compressor. I put my compressor in a 4'x6' closet near the electrical panel. I don't use the compressor enuff to be concerned about it over heating. If I do then all I do is open the double doors.

Electrical outlets on outside walls, lean-to is a great idea too. I have lean-to and the pets appreciate it tremendously when it rains.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,128
Biggest garage door you can fit, think RV storage 14' high, might help sell it in the future.

put conduit in the the floor to bring in electrical & water plus spare before you pour, vs cutting a hole in the side

run 2" conduit minimum from the electrical box to the other side of the garage, easier to run electrical across than doing an end around

if a lift is going to be installed, figure out where to keep it out of the way, I pick my spot by driving my pick up in the door ( single door on long end) and parked it at an angle ) that is my lift spot, I have radiant floor so I had to plan a post keep out area.
 

Swerve

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
526
Be careful with a floor drain...if you are close to someone elses property, or to a body of water, your floor drain will become the first suspect if there is any ground water polution in the area...
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,498
with a 40 x 60 building x16 foot walls you will have room to use attic storage trusses and make a huge room above your shop. My shop is 25x40 and the room in the trusses is 11x40 Pretty much free space. I also think 16' walls are excessive. You dont need that tall of wall. thats money waisted. 12' to 14' will fit any equipment or buss you might have.
 

No Hay

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
1,657
My last shop was 40' x 60' and had everything listed in this thread. It was absolutely perfect, EXCEPT, the land was sloped so the depth was 60'. If you can, always make them wider instead of deeper so less shtuff is buried in the back.
 
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