Recent content by dieselfarmer

Listed to be sold at Sullivan Auction. Just posting for those that may be interested. I don't know anything other than what is in the ad. https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/run-78-1973-ford-bronco-4x4

I don't off hand. I rebuilt them and had trouble with several. I ended up sending the injectors (after the rebuild kit was installed) to an injector shop and several of them were junk. Ended up being cheaper to buy re-maned injectors from a reputable shop that flow tested the injectors. I...

Russell tech support says their power steering fittings are designed to withstand high pressures in power steering applications. Russell has #648060 and #648080 which are o-ring seal fittings M16x1.5 and M18x1.5 to 6AN.

The black o-ring at the top is not part of the filter. I am thinking that if the larger o-ring (blue color in the pics) seals into the fox mustang fuel rail that I might not need the smaller o-ring at the top. Attached are measurement pics of the smaller o-ring. I might install the injectors...

I have a used set of explorer 19lb injectors - Ford part # F6VE-A5A - that I would like to rebuild and run with the explorer intake on a 5.0 motor. The rebuild kit only has two orings, plastic cap (for the lower side) and filter. Where can I buy the small oring that goes on the top of the...

Pulled the outer seal and bearing and then the gear slid right out - thanks for the comments Yeller!

I will give the brass punch a try and report back.

Yes, it is hitting the case In the red circle location.

Below is a pic of the pinion with slinger on a Dana 44. The pinion yolk is removed and the pinion gear will slide back-and-forth roughly 1/4”, but the slinger hits the housing when I try to remove the pinion gear. How does the pinion come out of the housing with the slinger attached? Does the...

I went ahead and welded steel into the cowl on my 66 to get a closer match to the driver air box vent. Still need to clean it up, but here is a rough picture.

Thanks for the reply. I tried the plastic air box and the fit wasn't near as nice as the original steel one which is why I am sticking with steel.

Yes, very helpful - much thanks. Follow up for clarity - see the below picture - Am I correct that I need to add metal to the aftermarket cowl in the areas that are circled in blue?

Yes, thanks for the good idea - but I really want to keep the old air box! In order to keep it, I think I need to modify the aftermarket cowl to get it to fit better so it completely covers the top of the steel air box, but it would be helpful to know if I'm off base on this concept.

I saw this pic in a post on another thread. It looks like the original cowl covers the air box better than my cowl. Do I need to modify the aftermarket cowl to better fit the original steel air box gap?

Wanting to figure out how the original steel driver air vent box attaches to the cowl on a 66. I removed the air vent box and am fixing some of the rust on it and plan to reinstall it along with a new cowl. Attached is a picture of the work in progress of the air box temporarily mounted below...